Tag Archives: Virginia Motorcycle Rides

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride: Backroads Bonanza

August 19, 2024 mcnews Leave a comment

Dan and I met nearly 20 years ago while playing on a recreational ice hockey team in our hometown of Ottawa, Ontario. When we weren’t talking about how bad our team was, we discussed our shared love of motorcycles. Our first motorcycle trip together was a long weekend exploring New Hampshire’s White Mountains.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Backroads Bonanza REVER Map

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

For our next trip, we spent a week riding in the Appalachians of western North Carolina. We enjoyed it so much that we returned the following year. Dan and I became regular riding partners, and we’ve done tours throughout the U.S. and Canada. Recently, we returned to the Appalachians to celebrate the 15th anniversary of our first ride there.

After a long day and a half riding south on Interstate 81 from Ottawa, we kicked off our backroads bonanza near Wytheville, Virginia, which is in the heart of a half-dozen excellent loop rides known collectively as Claw of the Dragon. We exited I-81 at Marion and rode north on State Route 16, a road known as Back of the Dragon that winds its way through the mountains to Tazewell, a nice Appalachian town that’s a perfect place to rest and recharge. It has a variety of restaurants, shops, and motorcycle-friendly lodging options, including The Traveler on Main, which offers vacation suites with full kitchens. The Back of the Dragon welcome center is a hub for riders, offering artisan pizza, self-pouring beer taps, local insights, and souvenirs.

SR-16 runs north-south over three mountains – Big Walker, Brushy, and Clinch – which gives the road its rolling humpbacked character, and its 32 miles have more than 400 curves. It weaves through lush, green forest and includes open valleys and scenic views. Changes in elevation are accompanied by changes in temperature that enhance the experience. It was easy to get into the rhythm of the ride and become one with our motorcycles, savoring each curve before moving to the next one.

We enjoyed Back of the Dragon so much that after visiting Tazewell, we turned around and rode it in reverse, doubling our fun. Just north of Marion is Hungry Mother State Park, which surrounds a lake of the same name. At the park’s Royal Oak Campground, we pitched our tents on a wooden platform extended over the side of a hill like a backyard deck, allowing us to relax while nestled among bucolic trees.

The next day we followed backroads south to Damascus and crossed into Johnson County, Tennessee, on State Route 133. We stopped at the Shady Valley Country Store, located at the crossroads of SR-133, SR-91, and U.S. Route 421. It’s a popular waypoint for motorcyclists, and we recreated a photo we’d taken 15 years ago: Dan riding a coin-operated horse made for kids.

After having a few laughs, we rode west on U.S. 421, another famous backroad known as The Snake, which slithers its way for 33 miles through Cherokee National Forest, goes over three mountains, and includes nearly 500 curves. Since Shady Valley is near the middle of The Snake, we rode to the western end in Holsten Valley and then turned around and rode to the eastern end in Mountain City.

As we continued heading south on backroads in western North Carolina, we experienced an unforgettable moment. I was leading as we rode on a straight stretch of road with a river just below us. Through our helmet communicators, Dan told me to look to my right. Flying over the river alongside us, at eye level and the same speed, was a bald eagle scanning the water below. It seemed like we were flying together. The vivid display of nature’s beauty ended all too quickly as the road and river veered in different directions.

After crossing state lines several times, we ended our day in Tennessee, ascending the winding State Route 143 to Roan Mountain State Park. We enjoyed a hearty dinner of sausage and potatoes cooked over the campfire and a quiet night under the stars.

The next morning, we continued our southern trajectory on SR-143 back into North Carolina, and then we rode State Route 261 to Bakersville. We took a convoluted, curvy route to Hot Springs, where we turned south on State Route 209, another serpentine backroad known as The Rattler that claims 290 curves in 24 miles.

After riding through the Pigeon River Gorge on Interstate 40, we crossed into Tennessee again and took another winding backroad (State Route 32) along the northern edge of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and then U.S. Route 321. We passed through Gatlinburg, where a boy named Sue once stopped at an old saloon to have himself a brew and met his long-lost father. We didn’t find an old saloon on the heavily trafficked, tourist-friendly streets, so we made our way to Elkmont Campground in the park and settled in for another quiet night.

Prior to meeting Dan, most of my motorcycle rides were of the solo variety. I was a “dawn to dusk” rider, all business, putting in the miles, with riding great roads my solitary goal. Riding with Dan has taught me to slow down and smell the roses. He enjoys talking to strangers, meeting people, and experiencing things other than riding. We’ve helped each other expand our horizons. I’ve shared the joys of riding long miles, and Dan encourages me to enjoy the parts of a trip that are off the bike.

See all of Rider‘s U.S. South motorcycle rides here.

Over the years, we’ve become great friends. Dan is like a brother to me. Our families have gotten close, and we know we can count on each other for the important things in life. Our friendship seems to be a rarity in today’s highly polarized world. We have different political views, but I don’t hold it against him that he’s usually wrong in every political discussion, nor does he hold it against me. We agree to disagree, yet we still respect each other.

Sunrise brought us another beautiful day, and we headed south into the heart of Great Smoky Mountains National Park on Newfound Gap Road (U.S. Route 441). The park gets upwards of 13 million visitors per year, so it’s hard to find a time when U.S. 441 doesn’t have a lot of traffic, but it’s still a beautiful ride. Our favorite part is The Loop, where the road curves around 360 degrees and crosses over itself.

At the Newfound Gap overlook on the Tennessee-North Carolina state line, we admired the views of the road, the lush forest, and the blue-tinged ridges of the Smokies. Rather than continue south to Cherokee, we turned around and headed north to Pigeon Forge, where we picked up U.S. 321 again and then Foothills Parkway, a relaxing ride with spectacular views that got us in the right frame of mind for what would come next.

At Chilhowee Lake, we turned east on U.S. Route 129, which runs along the edge of the lake for a few miles before climbing up to the Calderwood Dam overlook. This is the northern tip of Tail of the Dragon, the most famous backroad on our Appalachian greatest-hits tour. With 318 curves in 11 miles, it’s one of the tightest, twistiest sections of road in a region full of tight, twisty roads.

Dan was especially excited, exclaiming “I think I touched a peg!” in our helmet communicators. He rides a tall Yamaha Super Ténéré adventure bike, and it was a first for him. The beauty of Tail of the Dragon is the endless supply of curves, many of them nicely banked, and the lack of cross traffic. The downside is that motorcycle and car traffic can be heavy, especially on the weekends.

After crossing back into North Carolina near Deals Gap, we headed east on State Route 28, aka Moonshiner 28, and stopped to visit the impressive Fontana Dam. We followed SR-28 for its entire 81-mile length, which includes the Waterfall Byway (Bridal Veil Falls is a must-stop spot) and Indian Lake Scenic Byway, to the Georgia state line, where SR-28 continues south. Northern Georgia roads are fantastic, with wide curves, perfect pavement, and little traffic, which made it easy to get into a good flow.

We made our way west to Two Wheels of Suches, a motorcycle-only lodge and campground located on the Georgia Triangle, an excellent loop that connects U.S. Route 19, State Route 60, and Wolf Pen Gap Road (State Route 180). At the campground, we met a young man on a ’70s-era Harley hardtail chopper that he built himself. Hearing about his cross-country trips on that bike with its 2-gallon gas tank and leather-covered steel seat made Dan and I embarrassed for complaining that our heated grips don’t get quite hot enough.

Having hit our southernmost point, it was time to start heading north. We followed backroads through Georgia and South Carolina before returning to North Carolina, eventually picking up the Blue Ridge Parkway for a relaxing cruise to Maggie Valley, where a hotel room and a barbecue meal awaited us.

The next day, we visited Wheels Through Time. Unlike most museums that are static and filled with signs that read “Do Not Touch,” WTT lets you get close to over 300 motorcycles on display. Staff members circulate and tell stories about various bikes, and they often start bikes to let visitors hear how they run.

During our visit, Matt Walksler, who now runs the museum after his father, Dale Walksler, passed away in 2021, invited a small group of us to join him for a behind-the-scenes tour of the shop where bikes are restored. Seeing the vintage engines, gas tanks, wheels, and parts along with several motorcycles in various states of restoration was incredible.

The next day, we left Maggie Valley and headed for Rider’s Roost, a motorcycle resort and campground in Ferguson, North Carolina. When we arrived, we discovered a lively scene and a band playing on the Friday of Memorial Day weekend. We set up our tents and went to join the party. It was different from the quiet campgrounds we were used to, but the “everybody is a friend” atmosphere made for a great evening of country rock music, darts, and beers.

It was a long, two-day interstate slog back to Ottawa, which gave us plenty of time to reflect on our fantastic week exploring the best backroads in the Appalachians. The memories will last forever, another chapter in the book of experiences that Dan and I have written together. Hockey brought us together, but long motorcycle journeys have been the secret to our long-lasting friendship.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Resources

Virginia Tourism
Wytheville, VA
Tazewell County, VA
Back of the Dragon
Hungry Mother State Park
Tennessee Tourism
Johnson County, TN
Roan Mountain State Park
North Carolina Tourism
Heart of Appalachia
North Carolina Smokies
Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Georgia Tourism
Two Wheels of Suches (Suches, GA)
Blue Ridge Parkway
Wheels Through Time (Maggie Valley, NC)
Rider’s Roost Motorcycle Resort & Campground (Ferguson, NC)

Trevor Denis has been addicted to motorcycling since he learned to ride and twisted the forks on a Honda XL80 with an accidental jump when he was 11. His thoughts and garage are mostly full of motorcycles. He lives in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, with his understanding wife, two great kids, a cat, and a lazy dog.

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Source: RiderMagazine.com

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Alleghany Highlands: Virginia Motorcycle Ride

August 19, 2024 mcnews Leave a comment

After a 400-mile ride from Louisville, Kentucky, to Clifton Forge, Virginia, relaxing on the wraparound porch at Ridgely Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens was just what Dad and I needed. Perched above the town and built in 1902, Ridgely served as our homebase for two days of riding through the hollows, over the ridges, and under the canopies of trees in the Alleghany Highlands of Virginia’s Mountain Region during this Virginia motorcycle ride.

When we got hungry, Dad and I walked down the hill and into town for a well-earned meal at Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery, where I had a delicious New York strip and a Log Hopper Tavern Kolsch. Afterwards we settled into our comfortable rooms to get some rest for the next day’s riding and exploring.

Day 1: Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge Loop

With our kickstands up early the next morning, we rode one of the scenic routes recommended by the Alleghany Highlands Chamber of Commerce and Tourism, which has a visitor center in nearby Covington (the routes are also available on the Chamber’s website). We began with the Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge loop.

Just west of Covington, we checked out the Humpback Bridge, the last covered humpback bridge in the U.S. Built in 1857 from wood cut by broad axe, it’s 110 feet long and four feet higher in the center than on the ends. It’s hard to imagine that the tranquil Dunlap Creek flowing below could ever threaten to wash away the bridge, but that possibility was the reason for the hump in the middle. Once a part of the Midland Trail (U.S. Route 60), the bridge stopped carrying vehicular traffic in 1929. The National Historic Landmark is now the centerpiece of a delightful five-acre park.

Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER

Next, we turned north on Indian Draft Road (State Route 600), a pleasantly remote stretch of road that eventually loses its yellow centerlines. Following natural hollows created by Cove Run and Indiandraft Creek, the road weaves its way through dense foliage shrouding both sides of the road. It was about this time that I realized the Google Map of the route I pulled up using a QR code at the visitor center was no longer tracking because I was out of cell range. Being able to digitally disconnect is one of the great things about riding in remote areas, but I recommend downloading maps to your phone for offline use (the REVER app allows you to do this; see map above) or bringing a paper map as a backup.

From Indian Draft Road, we wound our way to East Morris Hill Road (SR-666) and then Coles Mountain Road (SR-605) to Gathright Dam. Named after the man whose land was overtaken by the reservoir, the dam was authorized in 1946 but not completed until 1976. Needed to protect life and commerce along the flood-prone James and Jackson rivers, it created 2,530-acre Lake Moomaw, which is stocked with trout and bass and ringed with campgrounds.

The Lake Moomaw visitor center provided a nice spot to stretch our legs and check the route to Falling Spring Falls, another truly unique wonder. To get to the falls, we backtracked on Coles Mountain Road to Natural Well Road (SR-638). Just before turning right onto Jackson River Road (SR-637), we saw a sign for the Jackson River Scenic Trail, a 16-mile rails-to-trails multiuse pathway. We turned left onto Falls Road followed by a left on Hot Springs Road (U.S. 220).

The waters of Falling Spring Creek tumble down 80 feet to the rocks below in a postcard-perfect location, with the cascade framed in green foliage and a view of the Allegheny Mountains to the left. On the side of the road, there is a pull-off for parking and an overlook with a picnic area, but there is no trail to the falls, so they must be enjoyed from a distance.

With our morning ride complete, we headed back to Clifton Forge to check out the C&O Railway Heritage Center, a must-visit attraction for those who love trains and railroads. The museum occupies what was once a freight depot built in the late 1800s, and the exhibits illustrate the intertwined history of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway and the town of Clifton Forge. C&O was once the world’s largest hauler of bituminous coal, but it was also known for luxurious passenger service. The museum’s collection includes old C&O uniforms, fine china and silverware, model trains, and displays about the railway’s evolution. It was fascinating to see a photo of fully loaded railway cars parked on a bridge during a flood to keep the bridge from washing away, as well as instructions given to an engineer for the arrival of Franklin Roosevelt’s funeral train on April 15, 1945. Outside are massive coal-fired steam engines, cabooses, and dining cars that are open to visitors.

Next, we walked to the nearby Alleghany Highlands Arts and Crafts Center and saw an exhibit of art created by a former railroad worker. Dad and I dined next door at Michael’s New York Style Pizza, where the aroma of baked dough, ’80s music, and wood-paneled booths and tables took me back to the pizzerias of my childhood. All that was missing was a Ms. Pac-Man tabletop arcade game.

See all of Rider‘s South U.S. touring stories here.

After our late lunch, we mounted up again to try and make it to North Mountain Overlook for a sunset view of the valley and Allegheny Mountains. Paralleling I-64 East, we took Longdale Furnace Road (SR-269) to Collierstown Road (SR-770), another narrow, paintless road. However, about a half mile on the ascent, the road switched to gravel. With sunset coming in the next hour, we decided to bail on the endeavor. Dad was on his Triumph Tiger, but I was on my Triumph Sprint GT sport-tourer. Had we started earlier in the day or been on true adventure bikes, we would have gone on. But with dusk upon us, we called it a day.

Day 2: Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls Loop

If you only have one day for riding in the Alleghany Highlands, the Chamber of Commerce and Tourism’s Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls scenic loop is the ride for you. Starting at the Masonic Theatre in downtown Clifton Forge, the route north out of town on Rose and Sioux streets becomes Sulfur Spring Road (SR-606). The climb up and over the ridge was especially twisty at the top, where 1st and 2nd gears were needed for the tighter switchbacks. While we only had intermittent glances over our shoulder of the valley below, the view was stunning. It was a nice clear, dry spring day, making this part of the ride a motorcyclist’s chef’s kiss.

After the climb, Sulfur Spring Road flattens a little and even gains a median line after passing Airport Drive. At the intersection with Hot Springs Road (U.S. 220), we turned left and headed south towards Covington, passing Falling Spring Falls again on our right.

In Covington, we turned right on East Riverside Street and hopped on the Midland Trail (U.S. 60). Where U.S. 60 merges with I-64, we took Dunlap Creek Road (SR-159). Again, I recommend saving maps to your phone for offline use as well as writing down the general waypoints and route numbers since cell coverage is spotty along the route. Who needs cell service anyway when you can enjoy light traffic, bucolic scenery, the fragrance of fresh-cut grass, and the hum of the bike? We cruised along at no more than 45 mph for the next 25 miles, crossing Dunlap Creek over and over.

At Crows, SR-159 merges with the Kanawha Trail (SR-311) and passes briefly through West Virginia. In Sweet Springs, West Virginia, we stopped for a map check and to read three roadside markers. One informed us our present location was once part of Virginia; another told us that John Floyd, governor of Virginia from 1831-1834, was buried nearby; and the last told us that the Rowan Memorial Home, which was once a resort, includes a building from 1833 designed by Thomas Jefferson.

Back in Virginia and just before Paint Bank, we made a hard left onto Potts Creek Road (SR-18) and started heading north again. Our return to Clifton Forge, which included Blue Spring Run Road and Rich Patch Road (both designated SR-616), was a delightful ride along creeks and was full of curves, dips and rises, and a mix of open countryside and dense forest.

Back at the Ridgely, Dad and I enjoyed another relaxing sit on the sweeping porch and discussed highlights of the last two days. We had a fantastic time in the Alleghany Highlands, and we’ll be back. In the fall, I’m sure sitting on the porch and watching colorful leaves fall from the 100-year-old oak tree would lift nature’s veil to reveal even more of the valley below.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Alleghany Highlands Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources

Virginia Tourism
Alleghany Highlands
Lake Moomaw
C&O Railway Heritage Center
Alleghany Highlands Arts and Crafts Center
Ridgely Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens
Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery
Michael’s New York Style Pizza

Nathan Cuvelier’s first motorcycle ride was after a primer on his dad’s Honda Shadow Spirit in a parking lot. The next day the two embarked on a ride through the White Mountains of Arizona. He’s been hooked ever since and relishes escaping northern Virginia traffic on two wheels whenever he can.

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Border Hopping the Virginias: Virginia and West Virginia Motorcycle Ride

July 15, 2024 mcnews Leave a comment

Border Hopping Virginia West Virginia Motorcycle Ride — Crossing Anthony Creek near Blue Bend, West Virginia, as we make our way toward the Virginia border on this Virginia-West Virginia Motorcycle Ride. (Photos by the author)

Riding challenging curves through beautiful mountain scenery spikes my happy gauge, and the border region of eastern West Virginia and western Virginia is ripe with options. Great roads curve along rivers, wind through national forests, and roll through small towns, with interesting sights along the way.

The historic small city of Lewisburg, West Virginia, offers good restaurants and lodgings, providing a convenient base of operations. I connected there with my long-time riding partner Steve Efthyvoulou for two day-ride loops that took us over (and over) the border between the Virginias.

Day 1: Into the Alleghany Highlands

After breakfast, we pointed our bikes north on U.S. Route 219 to Anthony Road, where a right turn put us on an entertaining and frequently narrow road that parallels Anthony Creek. Recent deer strikes on this road involving riders we know had us on heightened alert for creatures aptly named Odocoileus virginianus. We continued deer-free through the village of Anthony and past Blue Bend. A right onto State Route 92 (Pocahontas Trail) took us south through Alvon and to the outskirts of White Sulphur Springs.

Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER

A one-exit run on Interstate 64 east delivered us to State Route 311 (Kanawha Trail). We crossed into Virginia and entered George Washington National Forest. A few miles on, we encountered a curious double tunnel under a railroad. The original passageway was built of stone; the metal culvert must have come later.

SR-311 hugs Tygers Creek southeast toward Crows, where we went right to follow Dunlap Creek. We crossed back into West Virginia, and south of Sweet Springs, SR-311 continues left as Peters Mountain Road, curving in spectacular fashion to a ridge. There it returns to Virginia and cuts through a patchwork of green including wilderness and recreation areas, campgrounds, and trails for hikers and off-roaders.

On the outskirts of Paint Bank, where SR-311 crosses Potts Creek, the Lemon Hotel proudly flaunts its vivid yellow exterior. This historic mountain home, dating from 1909 and now operating as a bed-and-breakfast, continues the yellow theme to the garage, chicken coop, deck chairs, guest bicycles, and likely other accoutrements. Green trim mimics the leaves of a lemon tree. I’d wager the yellow lodgings are fabulous, but I was more interested in following yellow lines painted on smooth, black asphalt.

Paint Bank Road continues switching back and forth down Potts Mountain, with several scenic views signposted. At New Castle, we turned left onto State Route 615 (Craig Creek Road). The road meanders less than its namesake waterway, but it’s still engaging. To our right, we noticed suspension-style bridges across the creek that look like scaled-down Golden Gate Bridges. Where Craig Creek makes its final sweep right to join the James River, we turned left onto State Route 621 (Roaring Run Road), which slices along Karnes Creek.

See all of Rider‘s U.S. South motorcycle rides here.

At Low Moor, we turned left onto U.S. Route 220, cut north through Covington, and continued on Hot Springs Road, gaining elevation through curves into the Alleghany Highlands. Beyond the junction with State Route 684, we stopped at Falling Spring Falls.

In his 1781 book, Notes on the State of Virginia, native son and future U.S. President Thomas Jefferson wrote, “The only remarkable cascade in this country is that of the Falling Spring in Augusta. It falls over a rock about 200 feet to the valley below.” These days the drop is just 80 feet because mining operations from 1927 to 1941 rerouted the stream to the current falls. It’s still beautiful, but I wonder how the original 200-foot cascade looked.

Continuing on U.S. 220, we encountered arcs and hairpins climbing to a ridge, then curved down to the center of Clifton Forge, which offers multiple choices for lunch. Steve selected 42 Deli, where we ordered BLT subs overflowing with bacon. (There’s no such thing as too much bacon.)

After lunch, we continued north on Douthat Road to State Route 39 then turned left for more curves to the West Virginia border. Down in Marlinton, we turned left onto U.S. 219 through Buckeye and Hillsboro. In Pocahontas, we visited Droop Mountain Battlefield State Park, site of an 1863 Civil War battle that ended organized Southern resistance in the still-new state of West Virginia. A walk up the observation tower rewarded us with a panoramic view of the Greenbrier River Valley. Continuing south on U.S. 219, a combination of sweepers and twisties returned us to Lewisburg to complete the day’s loop.

Day 2: West Virginia High

The next morning, our second loop started east from Lewisburg on U.S. Route 60 then turned south at Cadwell onto State Route 63 (Monroe Draft). At Organ Cave, this road joins U.S. 219 (Seneca Trail), and at Pickaway we turned right onto State Route 3 toward Sinks Grove and Wolf Creek. At Alderson, SR-3 crosses the Greenbrier River and bends gently west and south for a relaxed run along this scenic river.

At Bellepoint, the Greenbrier and New Rivers converge, and just past Hinton we encountered a fantastic section of State Route 20. With tight turns and elevation changes, it moves along Gwinn Ridge with practically perfect pavement. At Sandstone we parked at the general store and walked around back for a close-up look at the New River. It’s among the oldest rivers on Earth, flowing northward through West Virginia valleys and canyons. On a perfect June morning, it couldn’t be prettier.

Reversing course, we enjoyed SR-20’s curves in the opposite direction. At Hinton, SR-3 presents a curvy stretch of two-lane to Shady Spring. There, U.S. Route 19 south got us down to Odd Road, which given its continual curves, is anything but odd for West Virginia. In the village of Odd, we turned right. Then at Coal City Road, we turned left for more twisties. At Amigo we picked up State Route 16 and wound through Stephenson and Corinne to Mullens.

Riding north out of Mullens on State Route 54 led us to a succession of twisty backroads including State Routes 97 and 3, Mattsville Road, Lower Sandick Road, and Clear Creek Crossing Road. In the village of Clear Creek Crossing, the riding got even better when we turned right onto Clear Fork Road. The tight curves border on perilous, but wow, it was fun!

Clear Fork Road ends (sigh) at Maple Fork Road, then we went left on State Route 16, right on 61, and left on 41. Farther on, we reached a highlight of the day, Babcock State Park, featuring Glade Creek Grist Mill and a series of streaming waterfalls.

Returning to SR-41, we continued to U.S. 60 and got exactly what we’ve come to expect from a great West Virginia road: smooth tar with elevation changes and thrilling curves. What a way to finish this ride. At the intersection of U.S. 219, we were back in Lewisburg.

Morning presented a 664-mile highway jaunt to get home. That’s a long way in a day but a small price to enjoy border hopping the Virginias.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Virginia-West Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources

Scott “Bones” Williams engages readers on motorcycle touring, gear, and culture. His writing conveys his love of speed and motion, preference for roads less taken, and role as goodwill ambassador.

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An Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Through Scenery and History | Favorite Ride

May 11, 2023 mcnews Leave a comment

In late October, an Appalachians motorcycle ride is a gamble. Weather is the house, and over time, the house usually wins. But once in a while, lady luck is on your side, as she was when a college friend and I gambled on one last ride before the riding season ended, taking a 460-mile loop through the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania, including a section of the historic Lincoln Highway and a visit to Gettysburg.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

From my home in Manassas, Virginia, we headed west on Interstate 66 toward Front Royal under clear blue skies with temperatures in the mid-60s. My leather jacket was perfect for these conditions because my Triumph Sprint GT’s sporty fairing offers only modest wind protection.

After a brief jaunt on Interstate 81, we continued west on U.S. Route 48 into West Virginia, where we enjoyed highway cruising speeds through mountains blanketed with foliage in various hues of yellow, orange, red, and brown.

See all of Rider‘s Southeast U.S. touring stories here.

We made quick time to Baker, where Route 48’s four lanes become two. At Thomas, we turned north on U.S. Route 219, dialed up some throttle, and weaved through the highlands briefly before stopping at the remote Fairfax Stone. The Fairfax Stone, originally placed in 1746, once marked the boundary of land granted to Lord Fairfax. The weather can be unpredictable in the mountains, but our luck held. The wind and the rustle of falling leaves brought a sense of solitude and calm to the area.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Fairfax Stone — The Fairfax Stone is tucked away in the highlands near the West Virginia-Maryland border. (Photo by Antony-22 via Wikimedia Commons)

Continuing north on Route 219, we entered Maryland and enjoyed more mountain views, including a ridge lined with big wind turbines. Just outside of Oakland, we turned east on State Route 135 towards Westernport. This part of western Maryland, just south of the Savage River State Forest, in and out of valleys and up and over mountains, felt more remote than any other area we rode through. Occasionally, where the trees had shed their leaves, we caught glimpses of the valley below as we ascended a mountain.

From Westernport, we took State Route 36 north toward Frostburg, where we hopped on Interstate 68 east for about 12 miles to the exit for U.S. Route 220. We continued north and soon crossed into Pennsylvania, and after about 25 mostly straight miles, we arrived in Bedford, where we picked up U.S. Route 30 and saw the first red, white, and blue sign with a large “L” designating the Lincoln Highway.

Dedicated in 1913, the Lincoln Highway was America’s first transcontinental road for automobiles – and motorcycles! It spanned 3,000 miles and connected New York to San Francisco by way of Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Chicago, Omaha, Cheyenne, and Salt Lake City.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Lincoln Highway — One of the historic markers for the Lincoln Highway. (Photo by MichaelVi – stock.adobe.com)

One of the many historic sites along the Lincoln Highway is The Coffee Pot, an 18-foot-tall building shaped like a coffee pot that was built in 1927 in Bedford, Pennsylvania, and once housed a small restaurant. A few miles west of Bedford, at the crest of one of the rolling hills that ebb and flow through bucolic pastures, the neon sign of the Lincoln Motor Court beckoned us to step back in time.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Lincoln Motor Court — My cottage at the Lincoln Motor Court, located just east of Schellsburg on Route 30, was a time machine back to the 1940s.

Built in the 1940s and laid out in the shape of a U, the motor court’s 12 single-room cottages offer more than just a place to rest for the night. The wood paneling, kerosene wall heaters, and period decor transported us back to the days before interstate highways.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Coffee Pot Bedford Pennsylvania Lincoln Highway — The Coffee Pot in Bedford, Pennsylvania, once served as a lunch stand along the Lincoln Highway but now rests in the nearby fairgrounds. (Photo by Jeff Kubina via Wikimedia Commons)

With autumn daylight burning away, we hopped back on the bikes and cruised over to Schellsburg for dinner at Judy’s Place (a recommendation from the motel owner), where our bet on wings and a plate of crabby fries paid off. When we returned to the motor court, there was a fire crackling in the fire pit. It doesn’t get much better than sitting in the glow of a fire and trading riding stories over beers.

A crisp autumn day with clear skies welcomed us the next morning. As we cruised east on the Lincoln Highway toward Gettysburg, we tried to imagine what the road was like in its early days. It was once promoted as a way to get from New York City to San Francisco by automobile for the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exhibition. Completing the full route took weeks back then.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Gettysburg — View of the Gettysburg battlefield facing west.

We were less concerned about getting to a destination than getting away, as the Lincoln Highway offers a nice reprieve from the nearby Pennsylvania Turnpike (Interstate 76). There’s less traffic and noise and more scenery – a ribbon of highway that rolls through beautiful Pennsylvania farm country and crests at numerous ridgelines.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Gettysburg National Military Park — The Gettysburg National Military Park is surrounded by memorials and markers. In our limited time, we were only able to visit a few. (Photo by Refocus Photography – stock.adobe.com)

In Gettysburg, we had a bite to eat at the Lincoln Diner and browsed at The Union Drummer Boy, a shop that sells Civil War artifacts. Then we cruised through the historic downtown and over to the Gettysburg National Military Park. We climbed to the upper level of the Pennsylvania State Memorial, which offers sweeping views of the hallowed ground where the Battle of Gettysburg was fought in 1863. For anyone who appreciates American history, a visit to Gettysburg is highly recommended.

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Pennsylvania State Memorial Gettysburg — The Pennsylvania State Memorial is the largest monument on the Gettysburg battlefield, and it offers panoramic views from the upper level. (Photo by imagoDens – stock.adobe.com

Late in the day, my friend and I parted ways. He headed back to Philadelphia, and I turned south toward Virginia. With one last ride in the books before the onset of winter, we walked away from the table as winners.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

The post An Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Through Scenery and History | Favorite Ride first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

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Healing Ride: A Father-and-Son Journey on the Blue Ridge Parkway and Beyond

May 9, 2023 mcnews Leave a comment

Blue Ridge Parkway Tail of the Dragon — Enjoying one of the 318 curves in 11 miles on Tail of the Dragon. (photo by Killboy)

The few months leading up to this ride, which included the famed Blue Ridge Parkway, had been rough. My wife was recovering from some major health issues, I was finally recovering from a relatively minor health issue, and our 16-year-old daughter was in full teenager mode, and we were all still in shock after one of her close friends was murdered.

On many days, I felt like a dark cloud was hanging over me. Happiness eluded me, and the fragility of life occupied my thoughts. Something needed to change, but I didn’t know what. It was time to reset and clear my head.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

Escape Plan

My wife and daughter convinced me that they would survive – and possibly even thrive – without me for a week, so I decided to take time off from work and go for a solo motorcycle ride. But where to go?

When I bought a used Honda Gold Wing a few years ago, it had a couple of Deals Gap stickers on the back fender, and the previous owner asked if I planned to remove them. I said no, as I had ridden the Tail of the Dragon many times and vowed to do so again on the Gold Wing. This trip would be a perfect time to validate the stickers.

When my 11-year-old son, Cameron, heard about my planned ride, he begged me to let him tag along. He had been on a multiday ride with me before, and he’s a stellar passenger. I figured he could probably use a change of scenery too, and I’d benefit from the natural positivity that kids have before they learn how ugly the world can be.

With my wife’s blessing, Cameron joined me. In addition to riding through the Deals Gap area, I also decided to give Cameron his first taste of the Blue Ridge Parkway and to visit the Wheels Through Time motorcycle museum in Maggie Valley, North Carolina.

See all of Rider‘s Southeast U.S. touring stories here.

Blue Ridge Parkway Bound

After a long, tiring first day of battling an endless procession of left-lane bandits heading south on Interstate 81 from our home in Ottawa (when did the passing lane become the driving lane?), we joined the Blue Ridge Parkway at its northern terminus outside of Waynesboro, Virginia, on a cloudy Sunday morning. It was like entering a different world. Traffic was almost nonexistent. There were no stop signs, no traffic lights, and no commercialism. And no one was in a hurry.

Construction of the 469-mile Blue Ridge Parkway began in 1935 and was largely completed by 1966, with one exception: the Linn Cove Viaduct around Grandfather Mountain in North Carolina, which was completed in 1987. From start to finish, the project took 52 years and cost nearly half a billion dollars. It was worth it.

The clouds were low, so mist and fog were constant companions that morning. It added to the mystique of the ride, but also to my melancholy. The previous day’s long interstate slog had left me tired, which did nothing to clear the dark cloud that had been following me.

Low traffic and low speed limits made for a relaxing morning, but we got some rain on our Blue Ridge parade. A few light showers helped bring out the rainbows – and the deer. We saw nine of them, and there were probably others we didn’t see, which helped justify the 45-mph speed limit. Cruising at a moderate pace also allowed us to enjoy the scenery.

Cameron loved the idea that we were riding through the clouds that people in the valleys were looking up at. I had been on this stretch of the parkway many times, and I used to think I wouldn’t need to do it again, but seeing it through Cameron’s eyes gave me a new appreciation for the beauty. The stunning views from the overlooks constantly amazed him. His enthusiasm was infectious and eventually broke through my sullenness.

After detouring through Roanoke because of road damage on the parkway, we stopped for the night in Christiansburg, Virginia. At a soul food restaurant, Cameron was introduced to Southern accents and Southern food in the form of delicious catfish and grits.

Traveling with a child is different than traveling solo or with another adult. The sense of freedom I usually have on a motorcycle trip was somewhat tempered. I couldn’t simply abandon my parental duties, and safety became a bigger concern. On the other hand, being able to share a passion with my child is an opportunity I relished. I remember motorcycle trips with my father, and I know Cameron will remember this one, so I tried to provide good memories. Luckily, he’s a good traveler and was happy to be there, so most things were easy.

Blue Ridge Parkway Bridal Veil Falls — Cameron cooling off at Bridal Veil Falls, which is on Highway 28 near Highlands, North Carolina.

The next day was another good one, with more superb views and a higher cloud ceiling that allowed us to see farther than the day before.

For people who love tight, curvy tarmac, the roads that lead up to and down from the Blue Ridge Parkway are often more fun than the parkway itself. Climbing up to 4,000 feet requires lots of twists and turns, and smooth pavement and good banking made for a Gold Wing carnival ride. Cameron loves the curves as much as I do, so we occasionally took a side road that looked interesting just to get to the bottom, then turned around and went back up.

We had lunch at The Bluffs restaurant, directly on the parkway. Opened in 1949, it was the first spot to provide meals on the parkway through a contract with the National Park Service. After closing in 2010, it was beautifully renovated and re-opened in 2021. It is a charming building, and the lunch was delicious but expensive. I chalked it up to the price of atmosphere and history.

Blue Ridge Parkway The Bluffs — The Bluffs has great food and a great atmosphere.

After some fantastic overlooks and busting into the clouds on a foggy ride up Mount Mitchell at more than 6,600 feet, we pulled into the Mount Pisgah Campground for our first night of camping. At almost 5,000 feet of elevation, it provided a cool break from the heat and humidity lower down. The views from the Pisgah Inn where we grabbed a few sandwiches were incredible.

We woke up to the clearest day of the trip so far, with hardly a cloud in the sky. The southern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway near Asheville, North Carolina, often has more traffic than the northern part, but the views are fabulous. Cameron and I agreed that the best way to ride the parkway is probably north to south, as the views get better as you go south.

North Carolina Highway 28 Tsali Campground — Our spacious campsite at the Tsali Campground off North Carolina Highway 28.

Slaying Dragons…and Mice?

After reaching the southern terminus of the parkway in Cherokee, we rode to the Tsali Campground on North Carolina Highway 28 (aka Moonshiner 28). We set up our tent early to lighten our load for our Deals Gap run. After a stop at Fontana Dam, we rode the Tail of the Dragon’s 318 curves in 11 miles. I’ve ridden the road several times over the past 20 years, but this was the first time on such a big bike and with a passenger. The aftermarket suspension on the Wing helped, and it handled the challenge quite well, validating its stickers for me. The road is fantastic, and we both had a great time on it.

The next day we rode south on Highway 28, another great road, past Franklin and made a stop at Bridal Veil Falls. We met a couple of guys from Minnesota who recognized my Aerostich jacket as being from Duluth, near where they live. One of them was riding a beautiful early ’70s-era BMW that he restored.

Highway 28 allows you to visit multiple states in a short period. From North Carolina, we crossed into Georgia for about 15 minutes, then into South Carolina. At the pretty town of Walhalla, South Carolina, we decided to head north again to our destination for the night, Maggie Valley, North Carolina. I used the “adventurous routing” on my Garmin GPS, telling it to take us on hilly, curvy roads to our destination. The route delivered and included South Carolina highways 11 and 130 and North Carolina Highway 281 to Tuckasegee and eventually to our motel in Maggie Valley.

Blue Ridge Parkway Deal's Gap — Enjoying a break at the Deal’s Gap Motorcycle Resort before tackling the Dragon.

For those of us not blessed to live in a motorcycle nirvana such as this area, it is really astonishing how outstanding the roads are. Curves are everywhere you look. Reviewing my GPS tracks afterwards highlighted how many curves we went through in a short time. This part of the world is truly a motorcyclist’s paradise.

After a nice evening, we settled in for a quiet night. Cameron slept while I looked at maps to plan our next couple days of riding. The rustling of a plastic bag on the TV stand attracted my attention to a mouse trying to get into our few provisions. I have musophobia – fear of mice and rats – so this was an unwelcome development. After trying in vain to catch the mouse without getting too close to it, I ended up going to the office and requesting another room. I had to wake up Cameron, and we moved all our stuff to a different room. Taming the Dragon on a 950-lb motorcycle? No problem. Sharing a room with a furry little mouse? No thank you!

Blue Ridge Parkway Wheels Through Time Museum — The Wheels Through Time Museum was one of the highlights of our trip. It’s a must-see for any motorcycle enthusiast.

After a fitful sleep filled with nightmares of battling giant mice, we started our day with a visit to the Wheels Through Time Museum, home to over 300 rare American motorcycles, memorabilia, and a few cars. It is advertised as the “Museum that Runs,” and does it ever. Staff walk around answering questions and will often start a bike to let visitors hear it. It’s incredible to listen to a 1950 Harley WL or an opposed-cylinder, shaft-drive military-issue 1942 Harley XA running in all their glory. Most museums are static places where you just look at things – at this one you can feel, hear, and smell history. An incredible place. We were both very impressed and will visit again. If you go, be warned: After leaving, you may feel a powerful urge to buy an old Harley or Indian!

From Maggie Valley we rode toward Boone on North Carolina Highway 209, also known as The Rattler. With curves everywhere and little traffic, it was a great ride, even if we hit a few rain showers that cooled us off. Garmin’s “adventurous routing” again took us along several state routes, each one seemingly curvier than the last, toward our mouse-free hotel in Boone.

That Blue Ridge Parkway Peace of Mind

There comes a point in every trip where a metaphysical corner is turned, where the journey is no longer about the journey but about getting home. We had reached that point in the ride. Unwilling to let our fun times slip away easily, we spent the next morning taking the long way home, winding our way on some small roads before getting onto the I-81 left-lane traffic jam for the long slog back home to Ontario.

Flat Ridge Road Virginia — Taking a break on Flat Ridge Road in Virginia, our last bit of fun before the long ride home.

The goal of this trip – and most traveling, really – was to rest, clear the mind, and gain a different perspective. In that, the trip succeeded. A week of waking up every morning with nothing to do but ride some of North America’s greatest motorcycle roads is a wonderful way to come to terms with the hardships and challenges of life. Staying in the present moment by thinking only of the next curve truly does help heal the mind and soul. It’s not the first time a motorcycle ride has done that for me, but this was probably the most significant. Sharing new memories with my son made it even better.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Resources:

Blue Ridge Parkway

Patrick County, Virginia, motorcycle routes

The Bluffs (Blue Ridge Parkway milepost 241)

Mount Pisgah Campground (Blue Ridge Parkway milepost 408.6)

Pisgah Inn (Blue Ridge Parkway milepost 408.6)

Switzerland Inn (Blue Ridge Parkway milepost 334)

Tsali Recreation Area

Deal’s Gap Motorcycle Resort

Tail of the Dragon Photos

Maggie Valley Area Chamber of Commerce

Wheels Through Time Museum

The Rattler / NC 209

The post Healing Ride: A Father-and-Son Journey on the Blue Ridge Parkway and Beyond first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Motorcycle News, News

Open Road BikeFest Coming June 22-25

May 26, 2022 mcnews Leave a comment

A new exhibition, “The Open Road: The Art of the Motorcycle,” opens on June 16, 2022, at the William King Museum of Art in Abingdon, Virginia. The exhibition will be part of the Open Road BikeFest, a weeklong celebration of the motorcycle held June 22-25 at locations across Abingdon and Bristol, Virginia.

Check out Rider‘s Virginia motorcycle rides

In addition to the museum exhibition, there will be bike rallies, block parties, bike rides, live music, and more.

Stay in Abingdon, Virginia, for the Open Road BikeFest and never miss a moment of the fun. Plan your route ahead of time with Appalachian Backroads, your complete guide to routes in Southwest Virginia, or The Southern Dozen, your complete guide to routes in Northeast Tennessee.

Indulge in Abingdon’s award-winning Small Town Food Scene at more than 30 independently owned restaurants. Finally, relax for the night at Hampton Inn by Hilton. Receive special BikeFest rates by calling Hampton by Hilton’s front desk at (276) 619-4600 and mentioning William King Museum of Art or the Open Road BikeFest.

More information about the Open Road BikeFest can be found online at williamkingmuseum.org/events.

Open Road BikeFest Schedule:

JUNE 22 (Wednesday)
Bike Night
Texas Roadhouse, Bristol, VA
3:00 – 8:00 p.m.

JUNE 23 (Thursday)
Cruise In
Hampton Inn, Abingdon, VA
6:00 p.m.
Music from The EDGE and food trucks on-site

JUNE 24 (Friday)
Block Party
Spring House Tumbling Creek Cider Company, Abingdon, VA
6:00 p.m.
Music by Florencia and the Feeling and Annabelle’s Curse

JUNE 25 (Saturday)
Ride to BikeFest
Black Wolf Harley- Davidson, Bristol, VA
9:00 a.m. registration
Begin your ride at Black Wolf Harley-Davidson on Saturday at 9 a.m. and finish around 1 p.m. at the Open Road BikeFest at Latture Field in Abingdon, VA
FREE TO RIDE! Please consider donating to benefit William King Museum of Art, donations collected on site at registration.

JUNE 25 (Saturday)
Open Road BikeFest
Hosted by William King Museum of Art, Latture Field, Abingdon, VA
** MOTORCYCLE PARKING ON GRASS, BRING YOUR KICKSTAND PLATE **
Gates open at 1:00 p.m.
Featuring music, vendors, food trucks, beer garden, best in show contest & more!
** BRING YOUR OWN LAWN CHAIR **
TICKETS: $20.00 at the gates
Music starting at 2:00 p.m. by Ron Short and the Possum Playboys and Phantom

More information about the Open Road BikeFest and “The Open Road: The Art of the Motorcycle,” can be found online at williamkingmuseum.org. The Open Road BikeFest is sponsored by The Town of Abingdon, Virginia, and the Virginia Tourism Corporation.

The post Open Road BikeFest Coming June 22-25 first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

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Favorite Ride: Lapping the Appalachians

August 23, 2021 mcnews Leave a comment

A Father and Son Tour the Appalachians — Father and son on the the Tail of the Dragon, Tennessee. (Above photo by 129photos.com; other photos by the author)

Dad’s first sojourn through the Appalachian Mountains of Virginia, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, and West Virginia needed to be grand. Dad is a desert dweller from southern Arizona and has never ridden east of Texas. We agreed on a short list of must-haves: Blue Ridge Parkway, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and Tail of the Dragon. Everything else – the fall foliage, the swollen creeks and runs, the rural country roads, the morning fog – would be an added bonus.

There would also be pancakes. Lots of pancakes.

We picked up Dad’s Triumph Tiger Explorer at a motorcycle dealership in northern Virginia, where he had it shipped from Arizona. We rode south and entered the Blue Ridge Parkway west of Lynchburg. The parkway is aptly named, with smooth, graceful curves, well-manicured roadsides, and plenty of parking areas to admire the view. A word to the wise, as I learned as point man: pay attention to mile markers. I missed the country road that the kind ladies at Explore Park said would lead us to Mount Airy, North Carolina, our first stop for the night and the birthplace of actor Andy Griffith.

Dad’s Explorer has heated grips and a larger fairing than my Triumph Sprint GT, so he was better prepared for the chilly 40-degree temperatures during our ride. For most of the morning, we enjoyed relative seclusion, clear skies, autumn colors, and beautiful farm country. In one short span, the view of the valley below on my left was stolen by a patch of trees and granite outcroppings only to be returned over my right shoulder. It was a literal tennis match of competing landscapes – valleys of farm country on one side and ridgelines stretching to the horizon on the other.

Traffic increased the farther south we traveled, and overflowing pullouts often prevented us from stopping, so, we leaned back and enjoyed the ride. We left the parkway at Asheville, having decided on Maggie Valley for our overnight stay.

A steady downpour and tornado warnings nixed riding the second day, so we covered the bikes and took a taxi to Wheels Through Time. While walking through the museum – home to more than 300 interesting and rare motorcycles – Dad shared stories of his older brother’s 1950 Harley Panhead and their shenanigans on it back on the farm in Iowa. One involved the bike, loaded with three riders, being chased by a dog that gave up the hunt after my uncle retarded the spark for a spectacular backfire. Dad hunted the base of many a cylinder barrel, searching for a stamp that would identify the same year as his brother’s, but to no avail.

Tourist traffic in the lush Great Smoky Mountains National Park slowed our progress. We found a place to park the bikes at Newfound Gap, a 5,049-foot pass on U.S. Route 441, allowing us to stretch our legs. Traffic in the park paled in comparison to the carnival of tourism we saw in Gatlinburg, where we found the Little House of Pancakes.

Dad tucked into a stack of blueberry pancakes, and I gorged on sweet-and-spicy apple pancakes. Between bites – and doing our best not to drip syrup on our map – we sketched out an alternate route back to Maggie Valley. We tested our pioneering skills on Tennessee State Route 32 in search of secluded switchbacks. Any concern about traffic was dispelled by a large red diamond-shaped sign that warned “Do Not Enter, Your GPS is Wrong” a few miles into the alternate route.

Littered with wet leaves and twigs from the previous day’s storms, Route 32’s pucker factor was off the scale, especially when I felt the front wheel push over some wet leaves at the apex of a turn. I rarely engaged 3rd gear after that. Pavement turned to hard gravel at Davenport Gap, where we crossed back into North Carolina on Mount Sterling Road. We found blacktop again at Waterville Road along Big Creek, and after a few miles, under cavernous trees and crags, we came upon Interstate 40 and our path back to Maggie Valley.

Compared to Route 32, the Tail of the Dragon’s 318 curves in 11 miles were not as technical, nor as precarious. The roads in this part of Tennessee, which arc around the southern side of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, plunge into valleys, rise to bluffs overlooking man-made lakes and hydroelectric dams, and hug the steep sides of tree-blanketed mountains. After a full day of Appalachian curves, we stopped for the night in Middlesboro, Kentucky, just a stone’s throw west of Cumberland Gap.

With our bellies full of pancakes, we rode east on U.S. Route 58 through southwestern Virginia under crisp, blue autumn skies, with ridgelines on our left marking the border with Kentucky. We continued northeast on U.S. Route 19 for our next overnight in Princeton, West Virginia, and we awoke the next morning to find frost on our bikes. Despite the cold, the scenery from Princeton to Elkins on U.S. Route 219 was a moving feast of fields, pastures, valleys, woodland, creeks, rivers, and quaint towns.

Link to Appalachian tour route on REVER

A section of U.S. 219 we traveled along is known as Seneca Trail. A pleasant surprise around one bend was Indian Creek Covered Bridge, which was completed in 1903 at a cost of $400. The rest of the morning was spent passing farm after farm, including writer Pearl S. Buck’s birthplace in Hillsboro, West Virginia. For pancakes, we recommend Greenbrier Grille and Lodge, overlooking its namesake river in Marlinton.

Our last day involved riding from valley to ridge to valley. We followed curves along various creeks and branches of the Potomac River that snaked their way through the Appalachians. Eventually we had to leave the winding roads behind and hop on Interstate 66 to complete our multi-day loop. For Dad’s first ride east of the Mississippi, he was proud to see his tripmeter roll over 1,504 memorable miles.

The post Favorite Ride: Lapping the Appalachians first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

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Riding Virginia’s Crooked Road and Blue Ridge

December 17, 2018 mcnews Leave a comment

Virginia crooked road blue ridge — On the Blue Ridge Parkway at milepost 101, the Ducati makes me look better than in real life. In the background is the Quarry Overlook. This dolomite quarry was started in 1916–twenty years before the Parkway. Photos by the author.

Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains in autumn are a place of unique beauty not to be missed, especially from the open cockpit of a motorcycle. From my home in the northern tip of the state, the Virginia border runs diagonally southwest for more than 300 miles, parallel to the ridges and valleys of the mountains.

In the southwest corner are my two ride objectives: the Back of the Dragon, a 32-mile run of elbowing blacktop crossing three mountain ridges, and The Crooked Road, a collection of live music and historical venues along scenic motorcycle roads showcasing the regional specialty: bluegrass music. I also plan to make use of the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, but only when my ambitious schedule will let me travel at the Parkway’s reduced speed limit of 45 mph.

It takes a day to get to my start point of Wytheville, but not without a midday detour along the Blue Ridge Parkway from near Montebello to Buchanan. I share the view at numerous overlooks with other riders, then enjoy lunch on the shore of Abbott Lake beneath the Peaks of Otter. There’s no wondering why the Parkway consistently rates among the top five motorcycle roads in the United States. A rider’s dream, the curvy ridge-top road runs through stone-arched tunnels and next to lakes, campgrounds and lodges–all completely devoid of traffic lights, stop signs and large trucks. Free for public use, the Parkway is open all year except in icy conditions.

Next morning I wake up in Wytheville to a steady rain lingering longer than forecast and wind gusts flexing the glass of the hotel window. I decide to motor circuitously and enter the Back of the Dragon at the north point to allow time for the rain to move out. I take U.S. Route 52 and enjoy a satisfying and twisty climb to Big Walker Lookout, elevation 3,405 feet. Here I find the Big Walker General Store and take a short break to enjoy the terrific views under overcast skies.

From there U.S. 52 curves downhill, then runs over rolling terrain alongside Interstate 77 for 20 or so miles—then suddenly joins the interstate and punches through a mile of mountain rock at the East River Mountain Tunnel. I then head west on U.S. Route 460 to Tazewell and turn onto State Route 16–the Back’s north entry point. Thankfully, the rain has stopped and the road is mostly dry.

There are neat, steady curves across the first ridge before dropping more than a thousand feet for a two-mile cruise through a gorgeous, Shire-like valley. The road then winds up the face of the second ridge and slices behind towers of leafy kudzu. Then come mile upon mile of pleasing twists along the second ridge before switchbacking downhill into the second valley, a nice break before the final 1,500-foot climb.

My growling and nimble Ducati Multistrada eats up the twisty climb and we loop through bursting autumn colors that surround rocky crests. The road surface is mostly excellent, though I did encounter a little gravel in spots.

State Route 16 continues south through Marion and later connects with U.S. Route 58–I’m now officially on The Crooked Road. Designated by the state of Virginia in 2004, The Crooked Road uses U.S. 58 as a central conduit but includes connected roads leading to festivals, museums and live music sessions, all associated with the heritage of bluegrass and country music.

I’m committed to being at the Floyd Country Store for the Friday Nite Jamboree, so I shortcut there on U.S. Route 221. Time permitting, I recommend an alternate route using the Parkway to Floyd and stopping by the Blue Ridge Music Center near Galax for the live music each afternoon.

The Floyd Country Store is a crown jewel of The Crooked Road. A modest cover charge of $5 gets me in the door. After an initial set of bluegrass gospel, folks are clearing away folding chairs and dancing to the fast-paced syncopation of Katie & The Bubbatones. Many “flatlanders” like myself are simply tapping our feet, but it’s clear that this lively music is still an important way for local folks to unwind after a busy week. On my way out I bag a pastry at the store’s bakery to have with next morning’s coffee.

The sun rises to a chilly but crystal clear morning as I depart Floyd’s cozy Pine Tavern Lodge, a clean and updated hideaway that has continuously served travelers since 1927. A peaceful winding ride on State Routes 8 and 40 takes me through elevated meadows and rolling farms, across small wooded creeks and finally to the Blue Ridge Folklife Festival in Ferrum. You’ll find such festivals along The Crooked Road almost any weekend from June through October.

I decide I need a final cruise on the Parkway so I get there by U.S. 220. Once on the Parkway, two groups of motorcyclists are going my direction, and we leapfrog along the Parkway as we take turns stopping at different overlooks. I exit the Parkway for good on State Route 43 for the small town of Bedford, a place that possesses the tragic distinction of losing more residents per capita in the D-Day landings than any other American community. Bedford’s D-Day Memorial is a good, quiet place to reflect on how fortunate I am to be able to traverse through Virginia’s natural, cultural and historical sites before continuing on home–back to the flatlands.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

MotorCycle News

Tag Archives: Virginia Motorcycle Rides

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride: Backroads Bonanza

Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Resources

Alleghany Highlands: Virginia Motorcycle Ride

Day 1: Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge Loop

Day 2: Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls Loop

Alleghany Highlands Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources

Border Hopping the Virginias: Virginia and West Virginia Motorcycle Ride

Day 1: Into the Alleghany Highlands

Day 2: West Virginia High

Virginia-West Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources

An Appalachians Motorcycle Ride Through Scenery and History | Favorite Ride

Healing Ride: A Father-and-Son Journey on the Blue Ridge Parkway and Beyond

Escape Plan

Blue Ridge Parkway Bound

Slaying Dragons…and Mice?

That Blue Ridge Parkway Peace of Mind

Resources:

Open Road BikeFest Coming June 22-25

Favorite Ride: Lapping the Appalachians

Link to Appalachian tour route on REVER

Riding Virginia’s Crooked Road and Blue Ridge

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