A stiffer chassis and larger 15-inch front wheel increase the Burgman 400’s stability at freeway speeds. Photo by Julia Lapalme.
Odometer: 619 miles MSRP (as tested): $8,099
OK, you long-time Suzuki Burgman owners are probably thinking that 619 miles isn’t much for a long-term report, but try to finish reading this before you bombard our email inbox with tales of your cross-country trips and high-mileage Burgmen. The 400 was all-new for 2018, and it’s a testament to how good it’s become that we put more than 500 miles on our test bike in just a few short weeks.
The styling is updated, comfort and wind protection upgrades make it more pleasant to ride and a stiffer chassis and larger 15-inch front wheel increase stability at freeway speeds. Power output is similar to before but the liquid-cooled, 399cc single with four valves and twist-and-go CVT transmission have been refreshed for more torque down low, better power delivery off idle and a throatier growl from the airbox (which some us felt was a bit loud).
Underseat storage holds 42 liters, or one full-face and one open-face helmet.
Despite the updates it weighs a claimed 15 pounds less and gets 12-percent better fuel efficiency–our test bike averaged 50.2 mpg over three fill-ups, with a high of 61.4 and low of 45.1, and an average range of more than 180 miles from its 3.6-gallon tank.
The windscreen is smaller than before but said to be more aerodynamic, and though it’s been some time since we last rode an earlier 400 it does seem like wind protection is up and noise down. Nevertheless Suzuki offers a larger screen for the Burgman 400, as well as a top trunk, which would be a welcome addition to its 42 liters of storage under the seat.
Large storage pockets flank the Burgman’s parking brake and ignition console. One includes a 12V power outlet, but neither pocket locks.
With its nimble but stable handling, excellent ABS brakes, spry power and linked single rear shock that provides a firm but complaint ride, we found little fault with the 2018 Burgman 400, and with 619 miles on the clock almost everything in our initial reports in the June 2018 issue and here still stands, with the exception of the new fuel economy figures above. We’d also like the lumbar support to adjust farther back for the taller among us, since it can’t be removed entirely without modifications.
At a $2,950 savings over the larger Burgman 650, the 400 may be the Goldilocks just-right maxi-scoot for a lot of riders who want a lot of luxury and performance in a smaller, more maneuverable size.
Bigger doesn’t always mean better, and fortunately for those of us looking for a fun, affordable motorcycle there are more choices than ever. Nearly every manufacturer now offers at least one model that will fit just about any rider’s size and/or budget.
Scroll down for Rider’s 2019 list of Best Bikes for Smaller Riders and Budgets. When possible we’ve included a link to our review, making it easy for you to get a real ride evaluation. We’ve also included the 2019 model year’s U.S. base MSRP (as of publication), seat height and claimed wet weight (when a wet weight was not available from the manufacturer, the claimed dry weight is listed). For more details, you can read our review, which includes comprehensive specs, or click on the bike’s name to be taken directly to the manufacturer’s page.
BMW F 750 GS
2019 BMW F 750 GS (Photo by Kevin Wing)
BMW F 750 GS
$10,395
32.1-inch seat w/ optional 31.1-inch seat or 30.3-inch seat
493 lbs.
While their rugged, round-the-world styling and expedition-ready features suggest otherwise, some adventure bikes work better on the road–much better–than they do off pavement. As word of this open secret spreads, they’re being bought more and more by riders who appreciate their overall utility, upright seating and solid aftermarket support.
Suzuki’s original DL1000 V-Strom is one of the standard bearers of the street-leaning ADV bike, striking a balance between RTW looks and performance and streetwise utility that makes it a champ in the bang-for-the-buck sweepstakes today.
Maybe seeing in advance where the market segment was going, Suzuki gave the DL1000 the 996cc L-twin from the TL1000S sportbike, modified for the midrange and low end it needed for low-speed riding and for hauling luggage. The 90-degree cylinder spread technically gives the engine perfect balance, but the rods are slightly offset side-to-side so a little vibration creeps in.
Even more is apparent in some 2002 and early ’03 models, which produced a low-rpm vibration far outside the norm. Called “chudder”–a combination of chatter and shudder–on online forums, it’s curable with an improved clutch basket. Even then, though, the big Strom dislikes being lugged.
A decent skid plate is a necessity if you plan on taking your Strom off-road. Shown here in the August 2007 issue of Rider.
One big compromise resulting from hanging the TL’s engine from the DL1000’s stout aluminum frame is a worrisome lack of ground clearance. The oil filter, oil cooler and the front cylinder’s header pipe all sit dangerously low and forward enough that a sturdy bash plate isn’t just a fashion accessory, but a necessity for off-roading. On pavement and smooth fire roads the suspension works adequately, but serious trails should be avoided.
It’s much more suited to the street, where small upgrades–a replacement shock and a fork kit–bring big rewards in handling. The brakes are just average, requiring stainless lines and high-performance pads to bring out their best. The 33-inch seat height is a problem for some, making lowering links a hot seller in the aftermarket.
Another aftermarket staple for DL1000 owners is an improved windscreen, because just about anything is an improvement over the stock one, which though stylish is ineffective at reducing buffeting at the helmet level. The fairing, too, deflects some wind but not as much as its appearance suggests.
It’s also an enormous parts bill waiting to happen in case of a fall–every fairing panel’s part number should end with “-$$$.” Fueling issues on some bikes can be cured with a tuning module, while other bikes run cleanly stock. Rough running has also been traced to dirty fuel filters, which many riders simply bypass.
Problems to watch for on used DL1000s include flaking engine paint, rusty or warped brake rotors and corroded hardware. Check the fins on the radiator and especially the oil cooler for damage, and make sure the brake pads don’t stick in the calipers and drag on the rotors.
If there are scratches on the plastic bodywork indicting a fall in the past, check for broken mounting tabs or missing grommets. An often-neglected check is to crawl under the bike and inspect the bottom rear shock linkage for play; the bearings inside are vulnerable to repeated spray from rain and can dry out, causing slop in the suspension.
Prices range from about $3,600 for a first-year DL to around $8,000 for a 2012; factor in accessories and condition accordingly.
2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000, as seen in the August 2007 issue of Rider.
2002-2012 Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom 1000
PROS Big torquey engine, do-it-all versatility, above average reliability.
CONS Nosebleed seat height, rust and corrosion prone, vulnerable and expensive plastic parts.
Displacement: 996cc Final drive: Chain Wet Weight: 517 lbs. Fuel Capacity: 5.8 gals. Seat Height: 33 in.
1975 Suzuki GT250M Hustler. Owner: Chris Wesney, Templeton, California.
Back in the early ’70s Suzuki was looking into the inevitable future and concentrating on getting into the four-stroke market, while still making good money from its two-strokes. And the predecessors of this GT250 Hustler had helped a lot.
Its parallel twin engine, perfectly square at 54 x 54mm bore and stroke, had first seen the light of the showroom floor in 1965 as the X-6 Hustler, a 250 tiger, which astounded the American motorcycling mind with a 90-plus-mph top speed and six-speed transmission. The engine was a simple piston-port design, with new-fangled automatic oiling, and cylinders were aluminum with iron liners.
Move forward eight years, and the rather similar GT250 Hustler appears—but with Suzuki’s Ram Air System (RAS) bolted to the top of the engine. The rubber-mounted hood was first seen on the company’s 1972 triples, the GT380 Sebring and GT550 Indy, which was the beginning of the Grand Touring series. The approach was simple enough, with this rather angular shroud aiding the cooling of the triple’s middle cylinder, sending more air through the cooling fins.
On a parallel twin this was more problematic, but useful in keeping the noise down. Two-strokes from the ’60s were notoriously rackety, especially in warm-up mode, and prone to give out a ringing and pinging sound from the fins. Strips of heat-resistant rubber were used in the 250’s cylinder-head fins to reduce the noise. All very civilized.
RAS was also a sales gimmick, giving the previous T250 model a new look. The factory was claiming the GT twin developed 31 horses at 7,000 rpm, but “Cycle” magazine used a rear-wheel dyno to measure the 1973 model’s horsepower: 22 at 7,500 rpm. The same magazine got a mere 20 horses when testing the similar 1975 version. As the humorist types back then liked to say, Suzuki was measuring power at the top of the piston.
It is true that Suzuki with this GT version had knowingly cut back on the power. This was because a major effort had been made, wise or not, to give the touring rider a quieter ride. However, it took some bright light to take the 26mm Mikuni carburetors apart and measure the slides; they had been lengthened by 6mm, which meant that full throttle was an impossibility. Two-strokes made a lot of noise from the intakes, so Suzuki used the longer slides on the GT–hence the slightly quieter engine. When found out, Suzuki immediately switched to correctly sized slides.
A battery and coil supplied the sparks, and the battery was a mere five amp/hour. Americans were coming to accept the electric leg, but because of weight and costs, no such starter was on the GT250. The rider’s left leg provided the starting mechanism, not that pushing the left-side kickstarter was much of a problem.
The engine was Suzuki solid, with the crankshaft running on three ball bearings, the one-piece connecting rods having needle bearings both top and bottom. Gasoline passed into the crankcase via that pair of Mikunis, while lubrication was done by the improved CCI (Crankcase Cylinder Injection) automatic-oiling arrangement. Just to make sure that the end bearings on the crankshaft were properly taken care of, they were pressure fed using CCI’s multipoint injection system. Compression ratio was an acceptable 7.5:1. The oil tank, part of the right side cover, held 2.8 pints and had a little window to alert the rider when oil was getting low.
Helical gears sent power rearward to a multi-disc wet clutch and then through the tranny, with its own oil supply. Sixth gear was very much an overdrive, which helped reduce noise at touring speeds.
Frame was a double cradle, with a major change from its T250 predecessor found under the four-gallon gas tank; instead of one large beam, there were now a trio of smaller tubes, strengthening the chassis and allowing for a more positive feel in the corners. The frame extended under the seat, so there was no bolt-on addition. Since this had touring pretensions, wheelbase was extended almost an inch to 52 inches for better high-speed stability.
The telescopic fork was adequate, as were the pair of adjustable shocks on the swingarm. Both wheels were 18-inchers, carrying a 3.00 tire on the front, 3.50 on the back. Front brake was a competent single disc, with a drum at the back that was activated hydraulically. Above the headlight were a speedo and tachometer. Wet weight was a hefty 350 pounds, 50 more than the original X-6.
The GT designation did not really live up to the bike’s touring abilities. As a solo bike, it was OK in the quarter-liter category, but with a passenger on board taking off from a stop was both a bit slow and noisy. If the engine was pulling less than four grand, a stall was quite possible, and quiet departures were not to be had. Plus the seat height of 31 inches meant a relatively tall rider was probable, leaving not much room for a passenger. The saddle was narrowed at the front, for those with challenging inseams, but not very comfortable for the rider when carrying a passenger.
In the end the GT250 Hustler, now a pussycat, only lasted three years. The RAS was removed, and the bike became simply the GT250 for the next two years–with bigger fins in the head to aid in cooling. That Ram Air System apparently served mainly to slow things down.
This 1975 model seen in the photos, in Aztec Yellow, spent much of its life in boxes and was only recently put back together–the only thing missing being the left side cover, which comes from a different year.
The V-Strom 1000 and 650, shown here with the XT packages that include tubeless spoked wheels, have the distinction of being direct competitors despite, or perhaps because of, their different sizes and prices. Which one works better overall? Photos by Kevin Wing.
How does one decide on an adventure-touring bike? All of the choices out there can turn your mind into Play-Doh. One way to narrow them down is by the front wheel size that suits your riding style.
Planning a lot of off-road riding? You need a skinny 21-inch front to carve up the loose stuff and roll effortlessly over ruts and obstacles–you’ll find one on a Honda Africa Twin or Kawasaki KLR650.
No dirt in your future? A 17-inch front wheel will give the bike sharper handling on the street and a good variety of sport-touring tire choices–the Ducati Multistrada 1260, Yamaha Tracer 900 GT and larger Kawasaki Versys models all have 17s up front.
For most of us a compromise is in order. You have dreams of conquering the Atacama Desert or Dalton Highway, but will probably spend most of your time in the lower 48 on paved roads, and about 10 percent on dirt byways and 4×4 trails connecting them. That reality has made 19-inch fronts common among ADV bikes because they’re a (mostly) happy medium between street and dirt.
Now, winnow out the expensive European machines with 19s and the pricey (and kinda heavy) Yamaha Super Ténéré, and you’re left with just two bikes–the Suzuki V-Strom 1000 and 650. That’s a good problem to have, though, because both are extremely competent on-road and can tackle some dirt as well.
You would think that choosing between them would be easy because of their size difference, but there’s actually a long-running debate over which is the better bike overall, largely because the V-Strom 650 is so versatile and a lot less moolah. Rider typically only compares similar bikes from different manufacturers, so we’ve never attempted to resolve the V-Strom 650/1000 debate. Let’s do it!
We snagged two Stroms and hit the road for our test, riding a mix of dirt and street to see which Strom rules them all.
For this story Managing Editor Jenny “Slim” Smith and Yours “Gas Hog” Truly planned a long street ride with a chunk of rutted dirt road to close the loop, so we requested the XT variants of the V-Strom 650 and 1000, which are an additional $500. This gets you tubeless spoked wheels that can take some abuse, hand guards with larger bar end weights and an engine cowl on the 650XT. The 1000XT gets the spoked wheels plus a Renthal Fat Bar handlebar; the rest is already standard on the base model. The plastic cowls offer some protection for the vulnerable bits in front (like the oil filter) from stones and debris, but are no replacement for a good skid plate.
For 2017 the V-Strom 650’s V-twin received new camshafts to boost power, dual spark plugs for better combustion and Suzuki’s Low RPM Assist and Easy Start System.V-Strom 1000 engine got a power increase in 2014; refinements for 2018 make the 1,037cc, 90-degree V-twin Euro 4 compliant.
Suzuki took things a step further by adding quite functional accessory top and side cases, tank bags, centerstands and “accessory bars,” a.k.a. bash bars, which are a good place to mount things like auxiliary lighting and may help protect the fairing in a tipover. The accessories added $2,636 to the $9,299 retail price of the 650XT and $2,413 to the $13,299 cost of the 1000XT.
At the crux of the big debate between the 650 and 1000 are the similarities between the two machines. Both are powered by liquid-cooled, 90-degree V-twins with DOHC and 4 valves per cylinder, and have six-speed transmissions, chain final drive and the same 14,500-mile valve inspection interval. Engines are mounted as stressed members in twin-spar aluminum frames, which have aluminum swingarms and bolt-on steel seat subframes, and both use the same wheel and tire sizes.
Tubeless spoked wheels are part of the XT package and add some authentic looks and toughness. Twin discs up front with 2-piston floating calipers could use more bite.Radial-mount 4-piston opposed brake calipers provide more stopping power and are a useful upgrade on the 1000XT.
Following a major redesign for the 1000 for 2014 and some updates for 2018, and a redesign for the 650 for 2017, the rugged styling and bodywork from their “beaks” in front to the luggage racks/passenger grabrails in back is similar now, and the stacked halogen headlights, instrument panels and LED taillights are identical. Both hold 5.3 gallons of fuel, though the 1000 requires 90-octane premium or better and the 650 is happy with 87.
Riders at opposite ends of the size chart will find this an easy choice, since the 650XT is lighter and lower for the vertically challenged, and the 1000XT has more power and legroom for the Paul Bunyans out there. Unless budgetary concerns are paramount, however, those in the middle have more to mull over.
Riders of almost all sizes own and love their V-Strom 650s thanks to its moderate seat height, 467-pound wet weight (without accessories) and lively engine, which made 68.7 horsepower at 9,100 rpm and 44.2 lb-ft of torque at 6,500 on the Jett Tuning dyno at the rear wheel, though the torque curve is so usefully flat that you have to hunt for the peak. It offers plenty of power for solo touring or two-up day rides, enough that even at 6 feet, 3 inches tall and 220 pounds, contributor Clement Salvadori recently bought one.
Although the 650 feels and looks smaller than the 1000, seating and comfort are similar, with wide tubular handlebars, footpegs well located under the rider and wide, compliant seats that are plenty comfortable from fill-up to fill-up.
Profile shots of the author riding the V-Strom 650XT (above) and 1000XT (below) reveal very little difference in seating positions, though the 1000XT’s slightly higher seat gives it a touch more legroom, and its taller adjustable windscreen is quieter. Tubular handlebars on standard riser clamps are easily pivoted and raised for stand-up riding.
The 1000 has a bit more legroom but its seat is about an inch higher–I can nearly plant my feet on the ground sitting on the 650 but I’m on the balls of my feet on the 1000. Although the 1000’s fairing is ever-so-slightly larger and its toolless 3-position windscreen does a better job of redirecting the wind than the 650’s (which also adjusts but requires tools), for the most part the two bikes provide a similar amount of wind protection. Passenger seating is pretty good, with the nod actually going to the 650 when saddlebags are installed, since its lower footpegs provide more foot and legroom.
V-Strom 650XT’s windscreen adjusts to three positions over a 1.5-inch range using tools. Stacked halogen headlight is a bit dim on either beam.
If the V-Strom 1000 didn’t exist, one would find very little to complain about on the 650, but it does and many riders think that bigger is better now. For starters there’s the
additional power; with 91.8 horsepower at 9,100 rpm and 66.2 lb-ft of torque at 3,900–though redline is a touch lower at 9,200 rpm vs. 10,000–the 1000 pulls much harder at high rpm, and there’s roughly a third more torque much lower in the powerband.
Though the bike weighs 44 pounds more, its added engine grunt makes highway cruising and passing (especially uphill) much more relaxed and two-up and fully loaded touring a breeze, and the bike squirts from corner to corner quicker with a lot less shifting. The 1000 also has an assist-and-slipper clutch that eases shifting a little.
Instrument panel with analog tach and LCD speedo display includes trip computer, fuel gauge, gear indicator and clock and is common to both the V-Strom 1000XT and 650XT.
In general, however, riding solo on the road we found that the 1000’s draw is less its additional power than it is the bike’s superior suspension and brakes. Rear binders are identical, but in place of the 650’s 2-piston floating calipers up front the 1000 gets radial-mount opposed 4-piston clampers, and a stout, 43mm inverted fully-adjustable cartridge fork on the 1000 replaces the 650’s 43mm standard damper-rod unit.
Rear shocks have convenient remote preload and rebound damping adjustment and the same travel, but the 1000’s beefier shock looks as if it ate the 650’s for breakfast. Both the 650’s quick, light handling and the 1000’s smoother, more neutral feel in corners have their virtues, but we found the 1000 much more stable and planted on bumpy roads and in turns, and its front brakes strong enough for any stopping task where the 650’s are just adequate.
Slightly tighter steering geometry and 44 pounds less weight make the 650XT more nimble in tight turns, but the 1000XT’s superior suspension and neutral steering give it an edge in faster bends, especially when it’s bumpy.
Suzuki Motion Track ABS and Combined Braking is also standard on the 1000, which uses a 5-axis IMU to help the ABS work in corners, and proportions braking force front and rear under certain conditions when the front lever is applied. In the long run, though the 650 can get through tight corners quicker and slices up traffic, we preferred the added stability, more predictable handling and braking and better overall ride of the 1000.
Depending upon your personal pucker factor and where you’re riding off-road, climbing on the 650XT after riding the 1000XT in the dirt will either feel like a huge relief or something of a disappointment. Their stock 90/10 ADV tires are comparable, but the 650 definitely has the advantage of less weight and a lower seat height.
Although they don’t have as much ground clearance or suspension travel as some of the competition, both the V-Strom 1000XT and “Wee”-Strom 650XT can tackle graded dirt roads or moderate 4×4 byways provided the rider uses some restraint. The 650 is lighter; the 1000 has better brakes and suspension.
While that doesn’t make much difference on graded dirt roads, in sand, tight turns and on hills it inspires more confidence, particularly at the lower speeds most of us mortals will be carrying off-road on these big bikes. But a skilled ADV rider will definitely prefer the 1000’s more robust brakes and suspension, and probably won’t be bothered by the additional weight.
2018 Suzuki V-Strom 650XT.
Jenny’s Gear Helmet: G-Max GM11 Jacket: Rev’It Tornado 2 Pants: Joe Rocket Alter Ego Boots: Sidi Deep Rain
Switchable traction control systems work well and identically in the dirt on both bikes, with 2 levels and Off, but should the need arise (like encountering a steep dirt downhill) the only way to turn the ABS off on either is by removing the seat and one of the ABS fuses. It only takes a few seconds, and the warning light will remind you to put the fuse back, but switchable ABS should be a standard feature on an ADV bike. DIY switch instructions are readily available online.
So, if it boiled down to owning one of these two bikes and nothing else, with no mods allowed, we ended up choosing the 1000, particularly if only a small amount or no off-road riding is involved. And even if there were a fair amount of dirt in front of us, we’d probably stick with the 1000 and just try to get better at riding it.
2018 Suzuki V-Strom 1000XT.
Mark’s Gear Helmet: Shoei Hornet X2 Jacket: Spidi 4Season H2Out Pants: Olympia Airglide Boots: Tourmaster Epic Air
A solo rider can easily make a case for the V-Strom 650’s superior fuel economy, and using the $4,000 saved by purchasing it instead to upgrade its suspension and brakes and buy a few aftermarket bits (like a good skid plate) to ready it for any adventure. But the 1000 is not that much bigger, heavier or taller than the 650, and with its extra power would also handle our two-up touring needs just fine while the 650 struggles with a passenger and full load.
There was a time in these models’ histories when the gap between them was wider and the V-Strom 650 was clearly the better choice. Both of these bikes are hugely competent and fun, but for 2018 the gap has narrowed, and now we think that bigger is better.
2018 Suzuki V-Strom 1000XT / 650XT
Base Price: $13,299 / $9,299 Price as Tested: $15,712 / $11,935 (Top Case, Side Cases, Tankbag, Centerstand, Accessory Bar) Warranty: 1 yr., unltd. miles Website:suzukicycles.com
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