This quiet, cozy, well-stocked cabin was our home away from home while visiting North Georgia. Lodging options are plentiful in the area. (Photos by the author.)
My family and I live in Jacksonville, Florida, where midsummer heat and humidity can press down on you like a weight. Looking for a respite, we headed for the higher elevations of the Blue Ridge Mountains in North Georgia, some of the southernmost mountains in the 2,000-mile Appalachian chain. Where there are mountains there are usually good motorcycling roads, and North Georgia has some real gems.
With my wife, kids, and parents piled in the family hauler and my motorcycle on the trailer, the six-hour drive had all the makings of National Lampoon’s Vacation. We avoided any hijinks, but we were relieved to arrive at our favorite cabin in Cleveland, Georgia.
With my family preoccupied with their own wanderings, I was eager to head out for a ride.
I’m an MSF instructor with more than 20 years of riding experience, but as a flatlander I had to recalibrate my brain to the tight curves, camber changes, rises, and dips that are common in North Georgia.
Discarded hiking boots adorn an oak tree at Walasi‑Yi Interpretive Center, a popular place to rest and restock on the Appalachian Trail at Neels Gap. The southern trailhead for the AT is 29 miles away on Springer Mountain.
From Cleveland, I rode north on U.S. Route 129 to U.S. Route 19/129, which forms the eastern side of a famous loop known as the Georgia Triangle that connects U.S. 19, State Route 60, and State Route 180. Heading north on U.S. 19/129, I stopped at the Walasi-Yi Interpretive Center, where the Appalachian Trail cuts through Neels Gap. The small stone building was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, and both it and the AT were completed in 1937. Walasi-Yi supports AT hikers with a hostel, bathroom and shower facilities, a mail drop, a store, and shuttle services.
Cloudy skies obscured the views from Brasstown Bald, but on a clear day you can see four states. Georgia’s tallest mountain is accessible via a steep, windy road off State Route 180.
After enjoying the sweeping, roller-coaster curves of U.S. 19/129, I turned east on SR-180 and headed toward Brasstown Bald, Georgia’s highest peak at 4,784 feet. From Jacks Gap, getting to Brasstown Bald requires riding up a narrow, winding one-way up, one-way down road with guard rails, low speed limits, and unrestricted views of the surrounding mountains. Once near the top, it costs $8 to park, and you can take a shuttle or hike the last 0.6 mile to the observation tower, where you can see four states on a clear day.
A nice view of the Blue Ridge Mountains from an overlook on Richard B. Russell Scenic Highway (State Route 346), a fun road through the national forest near the Georgia Triangle.
Backtracking on SR-180, I turned south on State Route 346, also known as the Richard B. Russell Scenic Highway, which meanders through the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest for 23 miles. It ends at State Route 75A, and continuing east another few miles takes you to the charming but tourist-heavy town of Helen, which is modeled after a Swiss alpine village.
I was there to ride, so I rode south on SR-75A, reconnected with U.S. 129, and then turned left (south) on U.S. 19. At the roundabout at Stonepile Gap, I continued north on SR-60, another wonderfully winding mountain road that forms the western leg of the Georgia Triangle.
After passing the Two Wheels of Suches motorcycle resort on my left, I turned right (east) on SR-180 (Wolf Pen Gap Road), the northern leg of the Georgia Triangle, which is the tightest and most technical of the three.
The Appalachian Trail crosses State Route 60 at Woody Gap, 3,160 feet above sea level.
After passing Lake Trahlyta and Vogel State Park on the right, I turned north again and took U.S. 19/129 all the way to Blairsville. Rather than contend with traffic on U.S. Route 76, I took a more leisurely route west on the Blue Ridge Highway and then Old U.S. 76. At Morganton, I reconnected with SR-60 and enjoyed more curves on my return to Suches.
After riding nearly 150 miles, I had earned a cold drink, a snack, and some relaxation time in one of the rocking chairs at Two Wheels of Suches. This well-known and well-maintained motorcycle resort and campground is a great place to meet fellow riders, see cool bikes, and have a meal, pitch a tent, or rent a room in the lodge.
For a Florida resident like me, riding in North Georgia is a real treat. Winding roads, mountain scenery, and cooler temperatures are a welcome break from flat, straight roads and sweltering heat.
The Georgia Triangle and other nearby roads scratched my itch for curvy roads and mountain scenery, and the temperatures were much cooler than back home. The cabin’s grill and a lazy hammock near the burbling creek were calling my name, so I saddled up again and rode back to Cleveland.
Once my family had gathered around the table set with sizzling burgers, everyone asked about my adventures, and I enjoyed sharing my story. As I said to my 7-year-old, the best part of a trip, no matter how near or far, is coming home.
Brian Carpenter lives in Jacksonville, Florida. He’s a life-long motorcyclist who rides year-round, and he participates in the motorcycling community on various levels and is passionate about learning, coaching, and being an advocate for the lifestyle.
One of the stops on Bullitt County’s Whiskey, Wine, and Ale Trail is the Four Roses Distillery near Lawrenceburg, Kentucky.
As a Kentucky native, I was long overdue for a visit to Bullitt County, home to two famous whiskey distilleries – Jim Beam and Four Roses – and beautiful rolling countryside. Less than two hours from my house, I explored curvy backroads and followed the famous Wine, Whiskey, and Ale Trail, enjoying the history and culture of these beloved beverages along this Bullitt County, Kentucky motorcycle ride.
Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER
Shepherdsville, located half an hour south of Louisville, is the trailhead of the WWAT, which also includes four wineries and a brewery. The trail allows you to sip, taste, and experience the history of the spirits of Kentucky, especially bourbon.
Bourbon whiskey has been distilled since the 1700s as a distinctive American product, and it is most associated with Kentucky, where it was first distilled. Legends abound about the early production of bourbon, and one can hear about that history and more on the WWAT tours.
Bullitt County recommends two days to fully experience everything the self-guided WWAT has to offer. If I had planned to partake in any of the samplers or tastings, I would have found a designated driver or used one of the available guided tour or transportation services, which are listed on the Shepherdsville travel website, where you can also download a digital passport.
Since my trip by motorcycle didn’t allow me to imbibe, I focused on the highlights and skipped the tastings. On my first day, I enjoyed a scenic ride east, mostly on U.S. Route 62, to the headquarters of Four Roses, one of the world’s most sought-after Kentucky bourbons. Having distilled fine bourbon since 1888, Four Roses has a romantic and fascinating history. With year-round tours, a tasting bar, an outdoor patio, and a gift shop, there is plenty for bourbon lovers to sample. I was particularly impressed by the property’s beautiful architecture and ambiance.
While exploring Bullitt County, I enjoyed riding on bucolic backroads.
For my return to Shepherdsville, I rode north to Lawrenceburg and then west on State Route 44, the sort of road that makes Kentucky such a wonderful place to ride. SR-44 is a rural two-lane that curves its way through peaceful countryside, including farmland, forest, and residential areas. The homes in Bullitt County are beautiful and well-maintained, providing picturesque scenery.
On SR-44, I enjoyed a few blissful instances where the road wound its way over hills above the surrounding countryside. With a rock face on one side and a drop off on the other, the road swept through a few switchbacks that kept me on my toes. The state route continues all the way to Shepherdsville and a little farther west, ending at the Ohio River.
Bernheim Forest and Arboretum, located a few miles south of Shepherdsville, encompasses more than 16,000 acres and includes a visitor center with a cafe, hiking trails, and the Canopy Tree Walk. It’s home to several art installations, including Thomas Dambo’s Forest Giants.
It was well into the evening when I arrived at my hotel, Spark by Hilton (see sidebar below). A sign nearby marked the entrance to Kart Kountry, said to be the country’s longest go-kart track, and it was open for another hour. I bought tickets for their fastest karts, and I was thrilled by the challenge and skill required to maneuver the kart around the well-maintained 1.5-mile track. With a wide grin on my face, I ran inside and bought more tickets. What a fun and exhilarating way to end my day.
On the next day of this Kentucky motorcycle ride, I rode to the Bernheim Forest and Arboretum, where I noticed a large wooden figure across the lake. Intrigued, I entered the visitor center, and a kind woman explained how to get to the sculpture, which is one of three known as the Forest Giants. After enjoying a cold brew coffee and sweet pastry at the visitor center’s cafe, I set out to view the Giants.
Another one of Thomas Dambo’s Forest Giants.
A two-mile round-trip loop connects these larger-than-life wooden sculptures, and parking is available at each Forest Giant for accessibility. I opted to hike the loop to see all three, and while I came back tired and hot from trekking in boots and motorcycle pants, the trail is a flat and easy hike for people of all ages and abilities.
A nationally renowned recycling artist, Thomas Dambo, created the sculptures, which were inspired by the nature and landscape of the area. They are unique and impressive works of art that complement the other points of interest in the park. After seeing the Forest Giants, I cruised around the rest of the arboretum on Bernheim Forest Road, a lovely tree-lined loop, enjoying the cool, fresh air of the shaded forest.
This Kentucky motorcycle ride would be incomplete without a visit to the James B. Beam distillery.
Continuing on the WWAT, I rode to the nearby James B. Beam distillery, where America’s No. 1 bourbon has been produced since 1795. Not only is there a wealth of history, but there are also generations of experience perfecting the bourbon-making process – both of which you can learn about in the American Outpost building and the tours and tastings offered there.
Famished, I found a seat at the large, well-lit bar in the on-site restaurant, The Kitchen Table. I ordered a starter with two cheese spreads and slices of a unique and tasty seasoned-and-fried bread. Above me was a sign proclaiming “Any damn way you please.” The bartender explained that one of the Beam distillers famously answers people with that statement when they ask about the proper way to drink Jim Beam. I love the freedom and self-expression that it implies. And I will certainly put this restaurant on my list of favorites for my next trip to Bullitt County.
Jim Beam, the world’s top-selling whiskey, has been produced for nearly 230 years.
My next stop on the WWAT was the Wight-Meyer Vineyards and Winery. I followed country roads and a well-maintained gravel lane to the owner-operated winery. Located on 16 acres, Wight-Meyer was the first commercial vineyard in Bullitt County and produces its wines from Kentucky grapes.
Jim Beam’s well-appointed distillery near Shepherdsville showcases the brand’s rich history with tours, tastings, and more.
I was greeted by a friendly owner, Sandy Wight, and her even friendlier dog, Charlie. She suggested a tasting from their selection of 25-plus wines, many of which are award-winning, but I had to take a raincheck since I was on a motorcycle. She graciously showed me around the cozy tasting room, covered patio, and serene vineyard. It was a beautiful day, and the puffy white clouds across the blue sky framed the rows of tendrilled grape vines that stretched off into the distance. I enjoyed the peace and tranquility before setting out.
In addition to the Four Roses and Beam distilleries, the Whiskey, Wine, and Ale Trail includes Wight-Meyer Vineyards and Winery (above), MillaNova Winery, Forest Edge Winery, Brooks Hill Winery, and Gallant Fox Brewing. For those who want to enjoy tastings, Bullitt County provides a list of guides and transportation companies.
Everyone in Kentucky loves steakhouses, so for dinner I chose a new one for me – Cattleman’s Roadhouse in Shepherdsville. It’s a family-style restaurant boasting a plentiful salad bar that was substantial enough for a meal, especially when combined with the complimentary melt-in-your-mouth rolls slathered with cinnamon butter.
Before heading home, I visited the Awesome Flea Market in Shepherdsville. A short ride from the hotel, this enormous building contains indoor and outdoor sellers. When I stepped out back, I was greeted by an impressively large painted sign – the kind that makes you feel small – proclaiming The Most Awesome Flea Market in the World. Inside, I found a climate-controlled market with a food court and countless shops with varied, eclectic wares and friendly customer service.
Awesome Flea Market in Shepherdsville
This short, local Kentucky motorcycle ride was a satisfying scratch to the itch one experiences when two-wheeled travel is a passion. Even though I was relatively close to home, I still rode new routes, met new people, and saw new sights – the makings of a successful motorcycle trip, indeed.
SIDEBAR: Spark by Hilton Shepherdsville Louisville South
The Spark by Hilton is only a half mile off I-65 at exit 117. It’s a short ride from a variety of restaurants, and some are within walking distance. It’s also near Kart Kountry, the world’s longest go-kart track. The clean, recently renovated hotel includes a variety of amenities that are great for a motorcycle trip, such as free wi-fi, an in-room mini-fridge, free hot breakfast, and an indoor pool. For more information, visit the Spark by Hilton website.
Carly Becker lives to ride. If she’s not on her bike, she can be found at her desk, writing about her motorcycle tours and moto camping trips. She lives in northern Kentucky with her husband, her dog, and her Kawasaki Versys-X 300.
Kudzu Curve on Back of the Dragon (Virginia Route 16). (Photo above courtesy Back of the Dragon; other photos by the author and Dan McPhee).
Dan and I met nearly 20 years ago while playing on a recreational ice hockey team in our hometown of Ottawa, Ontario. When we weren’t talking about how bad our team was, we discussed our shared love of motorcycles. Our first motorcycle trip together was a long weekend exploring New Hampshire’s White Mountains.
For our next trip, we spent a week riding in the Appalachians of western North Carolina. We enjoyed it so much that we returned the following year. Dan and I became regular riding partners, and we’ve done tours throughout the U.S. and Canada. Recently, we returned to the Appalachians to celebrate the 15th anniversary of our first ride there.
Dan made a new friend at the Back of the Dragon store in Tazewell, Virginia.
After a long day and a half riding south on Interstate 81 from Ottawa, we kicked off our backroads bonanza near Wytheville, Virginia, which is in the heart of a half-dozen excellent loop rides known collectively as Claw of the Dragon. We exited I-81 at Marion and rode north on State Route 16, a road known as Back of the Dragon that winds its way through the mountains to Tazewell, a nice Appalachian town that’s a perfect place to rest and recharge. It has a variety of restaurants, shops, and motorcycle-friendly lodging options, including The Traveler on Main, which offers vacation suites with full kitchens. The Back of the Dragon welcome center is a hub for riders, offering artisan pizza, self-pouring beer taps, local insights, and souvenirs.
Dan and I on our first ride together to the Appalachians in 2008. Younger, stronger, and better looking, but probably not as wise?
SR-16 runs north-south over three mountains – Big Walker, Brushy, and Clinch – which gives the road its rolling humpbacked character, and its 32 miles have more than 400 curves. It weaves through lush, green forest and includes open valleys and scenic views. Changes in elevation are accompanied by changes in temperature that enhance the experience. It was easy to get into the rhythm of the ride and become one with our motorcycles, savoring each curve before moving to the next one.
Same guy, same horse, 15 years apart, at the Shady Valley Country Store on The Snake (U.S. Route 421) in Tennessee.
We enjoyed Back of the Dragon so much that after visiting Tazewell, we turned around and rode it in reverse, doubling our fun. Just north of Marion is Hungry Mother State Park, which surrounds a lake of the same name. At the park’s Royal Oak Campground, we pitched our tents on a wooden platform extended over the side of a hill like a backyard deck, allowing us to relax while nestled among bucolic trees.
Our campsite with the tent platform at Hungry Mother State Park, just off Virginia Route 16.
The next day we followed backroads south to Damascus and crossed into Johnson County, Tennessee, on State Route 133. We stopped at the Shady Valley Country Store, located at the crossroads of SR-133, SR-91, and U.S. Route 421. It’s a popular waypoint for motorcyclists, and we recreated a photo we’d taken 15 years ago: Dan riding a coin-operated horse made for kids.
After having a few laughs, we rode west on U.S. 421, another famous backroad known as The Snake, which slithers its way for 33 miles through Cherokee National Forest, goes over three mountains, and includes nearly 500 curves. Since Shady Valley is near the middle of The Snake, we rode to the western end in Holsten Valley and then turned around and rode to the eastern end in Mountain City.
Taking a break while riding Appalachian backroads in North Carolina.
As we continued heading south on backroads in western North Carolina, we experienced an unforgettable moment. I was leading as we rode on a straight stretch of road with a river just below us. Through our helmet communicators, Dan told me to look to my right. Flying over the river alongside us, at eye level and the same speed, was a bald eagle scanning the water below. It seemed like we were flying together. The vivid display of nature’s beauty ended all too quickly as the road and river veered in different directions.
After crossing state lines several times, we ended our day in Tennessee, ascending the winding State Route 143 to Roan Mountain State Park. We enjoyed a hearty dinner of sausage and potatoes cooked over the campfire and a quiet night under the stars.
Mountains as far as the eye can see on the Foothills Parkway in Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
The next morning, we continued our southern trajectory on SR-143 back into North Carolina, and then we rode State Route 261 to Bakersville. We took a convoluted, curvy route to Hot Springs, where we turned south on State Route 209, another serpentine backroad known as The Rattler that claims 290 curves in 24 miles.
After riding through the Pigeon River Gorge on Interstate 40, we crossed into Tennessee again and took another winding backroad (State Route 32) along the northern edge of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and then U.S. Route 321. We passed through Gatlinburg, where a boy named Sue once stopped at an old saloon to have himself a brew and met his long-lost father. We didn’t find an old saloon on the heavily trafficked, tourist-friendly streets, so we made our way to Elkmont Campground in the park and settled in for another quiet night.
Dan and I with the Tail of the Dragon store’s namesake at Deals Gap.
Prior to meeting Dan, most of my motorcycle rides were of the solo variety. I was a “dawn to dusk” rider, all business, putting in the miles, with riding great roads my solitary goal. Riding with Dan has taught me to slow down and smell the roses. He enjoys talking to strangers, meeting people, and experiencing things other than riding. We’ve helped each other expand our horizons. I’ve shared the joys of riding long miles, and Dan encourages me to enjoy the parts of a trip that are off the bike.
Over the years, we’ve become great friends. Dan is like a brother to me. Our families have gotten close, and we know we can count on each other for the important things in life. Our friendship seems to be a rarity in today’s highly polarized world. We have different political views, but I don’t hold it against him that he’s usually wrong in every political discussion, nor does he hold it against me. We agree to disagree, yet we still respect each other.
Wilson Creek Valley overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina.
Sunrise brought us another beautiful day, and we headed south into the heart of Great Smoky Mountains National Park on Newfound Gap Road (U.S. Route 441). The park gets upwards of 13 million visitors per year, so it’s hard to find a time when U.S. 441 doesn’t have a lot of traffic, but it’s still a beautiful ride. Our favorite part is The Loop, where the road curves around 360 degrees and crosses over itself.
At the Newfound Gap overlook on the Tennessee-North Carolina state line, we admired the views of the road, the lush forest, and the blue-tinged ridges of the Smokies. Rather than continue south to Cherokee, we turned around and headed north to Pigeon Forge, where we picked up U.S. 321 again and then Foothills Parkway, a relaxing ride with spectacular views that got us in the right frame of mind for what would come next.
Dan and his Yamaha Super Ténéré enjoying some curves in northern Georgia.
At Chilhowee Lake, we turned east on U.S. Route 129, which runs along the edge of the lake for a few miles before climbing up to the Calderwood Dam overlook. This is the northern tip of Tail of the Dragon, the most famous backroad on our Appalachian greatest-hits tour. With 318 curves in 11 miles, it’s one of the tightest, twistiest sections of road in a region full of tight, twisty roads.
Dan was especially excited, exclaiming “I think I touched a peg!” in our helmet communicators. He rides a tall Yamaha Super Ténéré adventure bike, and it was a first for him. The beauty of Tail of the Dragon is the endless supply of curves, many of them nicely banked, and the lack of cross traffic. The downside is that motorcycle and car traffic can be heavy, especially on the weekends.
Carving my Gold Wing through curves in northern Georgia.
After crossing back into North Carolina near Deals Gap, we headed east on State Route 28, aka Moonshiner 28, and stopped to visit the impressive Fontana Dam. We followed SR-28 for its entire 81-mile length, which includes the Waterfall Byway (Bridal Veil Falls is a must-stop spot) and Indian Lake Scenic Byway, to the Georgia state line, where SR-28 continues south. Northern Georgia roads are fantastic, with wide curves, perfect pavement, and little traffic, which made it easy to get into a good flow.
We made our way west to Two Wheels of Suches, a motorcycle-only lodge and campground located on the Georgia Triangle, an excellent loop that connects U.S. Route 19, State Route 60, and Wolf Pen Gap Road (State Route 180). At the campground, we met a young man on a ’70s-era Harley hardtail chopper that he built himself. Hearing about his cross-country trips on that bike with its 2-gallon gas tank and leather-covered steel seat made Dan and I embarrassed for complaining that our heated grips don’t get quite hot enough.
Our campsite at the Two Wheels of Suches motorcycle-only resort in northern Georgia.
Having hit our southernmost point, it was time to start heading north. We followed backroads through Georgia and South Carolina before returning to North Carolina, eventually picking up the Blue Ridge Parkway for a relaxing cruise to Maggie Valley, where a hotel room and a barbecue meal awaited us.
The next day, we visited Wheels Through Time. Unlike most museums that are static and filled with signs that read “Do Not Touch,” WTT lets you get close to over 300 motorcycles on display. Staff members circulate and tell stories about various bikes, and they often start bikes to let visitors hear how they run.
During our visit to Wheels Through Time in Maggie Valley, North Carolina, Matt Walksler gave us a tour of the restoration shop.
During our visit, Matt Walksler, who now runs the museum after his father, Dale Walksler, passed away in 2021, invited a small group of us to join him for a behind-the-scenes tour of the shop where bikes are restored. Seeing the vintage engines, gas tanks, wheels, and parts along with several motorcycles in various states of restoration was incredible.
The next day, we left Maggie Valley and headed for Rider’s Roost, a motorcycle resort and campground in Ferguson, North Carolina. When we arrived, we discovered a lively scene and a band playing on the Friday of Memorial Day weekend. We set up our tents and went to join the party. It was different from the quiet campgrounds we were used to, but the “everybody is a friend” atmosphere made for a great evening of country rock music, darts, and beers.
Our campsite at Rider’s Roost Motorcycle Resort and Campground in Ferguson, North Carolina. A live band was playing about 300 yards away.
It was a long, two-day interstate slog back to Ottawa, which gave us plenty of time to reflect on our fantastic week exploring the best backroads in the Appalachians. The memories will last forever, another chapter in the book of experiences that Dan and I have written together. Hockey brought us together, but long motorcycle journeys have been the secret to our long-lasting friendship.
Trevor Denis has been addicted to motorcycling since he learned to ride and twisted the forks on a Honda XL80 with an accidental jump when he was 11. His thoughts and garage are mostly full of motorcycles. He lives in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, with his understanding wife, two great kids, a cat, and a lazy dog.
Our Triumphs – my Sprint GT and Dad’s Tiger 1050 – await more curves while we enjoy a scenic overlook on U.S. Route 220 near Falling Spring Falls. (Photos by the author)
After a 400-mile ride from Louisville, Kentucky, to Clifton Forge, Virginia, relaxing on the wraparound porch at Ridgely Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens was just what Dad and I needed. Perched above the town and built in 1902, Ridgely served as our homebase for two days of riding through the hollows, over the ridges, and under the canopies of trees in the Alleghany Highlands of Virginia’s Mountain Region during this Virginia motorcycle ride.
Re-entering Virginia on the Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls scenic loop.
When we got hungry, Dad and I walked down the hill and into town for a well-earned meal at Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery, where I had a delicious New York strip and a Log Hopper Tavern Kolsch. Afterwards we settled into our comfortable rooms to get some rest for the next day’s riding and exploring.
West Ridgeway Street in Clifton Forge.
Day 1: Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge Loop
With our kickstands up early the next morning, we rode one of the scenic routes recommended by the Alleghany Highlands Chamber of Commerce and Tourism, which has a visitor center in nearby Covington (the routes are also available on the Chamber’s website). We began with the Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge loop.
Humpback Bridge spans Dunlap Creek. It’s the last remaining single-span humpback covered bridge in the United States and a #UniquelyAlleghany site.
Just west of Covington, we checked out the Humpback Bridge, the last covered humpback bridge in the U.S. Built in 1857 from wood cut by broad axe, it’s 110 feet long and four feet higher in the center than on the ends. It’s hard to imagine that the tranquil Dunlap Creek flowing below could ever threaten to wash away the bridge, but that possibility was the reason for the hump in the middle. Once a part of the Midland Trail (U.S. Route 60), the bridge stopped carrying vehicular traffic in 1929. The National Historic Landmark is now the centerpiece of a delightful five-acre park.
Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER
Next, we turned north on Indian Draft Road (State Route 600), a pleasantly remote stretch of road that eventually loses its yellow centerlines. Following natural hollows created by Cove Run and Indiandraft Creek, the road weaves its way through dense foliage shrouding both sides of the road. It was about this time that I realized the Google Map of the route I pulled up using a QR code at the visitor center was no longer tracking because I was out of cell range. Being able to digitally disconnect is one of the great things about riding in remote areas, but I recommend downloading maps to your phone for offline use (the REVER app allows you to do this; see map above) or bringing a paper map as a backup.
We stopped to admire Smith Creek on a tree-canopied road on the Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls loop.
From Indian Draft Road, we wound our way to East Morris Hill Road (SR-666) and then Coles Mountain Road (SR-605) to Gathright Dam. Named after the man whose land was overtaken by the reservoir, the dam was authorized in 1946 but not completed until 1976. Needed to protect life and commerce along the flood-prone James and Jackson rivers, it created 2,530-acre Lake Moomaw, which is stocked with trout and bass and ringed with campgrounds.
A view of Gathright Dam from the Lake Moomaw visitor center.
The Lake Moomaw visitor center provided a nice spot to stretch our legs and check the route to Falling Spring Falls, another truly unique wonder. To get to the falls, we backtracked on Coles Mountain Road to Natural Well Road (SR-638). Just before turning right onto Jackson River Road (SR-637), we saw a sign for the Jackson River Scenic Trail, a 16-mile rails-to-trails multiuse pathway. We turned left onto Falls Road followed by a left on Hot Springs Road (U.S. 220).
The waters of Falling Spring Creek tumble down 80 feet to the rocks below in a postcard-perfect location, with the cascade framed in green foliage and a view of the Allegheny Mountains to the left. On the side of the road, there is a pull-off for parking and an overlook with a picnic area, but there is no trail to the falls, so they must be enjoyed from a distance.
There’s no such thing as a bad picture of Falling Spring Falls. U.S. 220’s curves are addictive, so make sure you don’t miss the pull-off.
With our morning ride complete, we headed back to Clifton Forge to check out the C&O Railway Heritage Center, a must-visit attraction for those who love trains and railroads. The museum occupies what was once a freight depot built in the late 1800s, and the exhibits illustrate the intertwined history of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway and the town of Clifton Forge. C&O was once the world’s largest hauler of bituminous coal, but it was also known for luxurious passenger service. The museum’s collection includes old C&O uniforms, fine china and silverware, model trains, and displays about the railway’s evolution. It was fascinating to see a photo of fully loaded railway cars parked on a bridge during a flood to keep the bridge from washing away, as well as instructions given to an engineer for the arrival of Franklin Roosevelt’s funeral train on April 15, 1945. Outside are massive coal-fired steam engines, cabooses, and dining cars that are open to visitors.
Without Dad posing next to the #614’s 6-foot driving wheel, it’s hard to explain the size of the 4-8-4 locomotives of the Chesapeake and Ohio railway.
Next, we walked to the nearby Alleghany Highlands Arts and Crafts Center and saw an exhibit of art created by a former railroad worker. Dad and I dined next door at Michael’s New York Style Pizza, where the aroma of baked dough, ’80s music, and wood-paneled booths and tables took me back to the pizzerias of my childhood. All that was missing was a Ms. Pac-Man tabletop arcade game.
After our late lunch, we mounted up again to try and make it to North Mountain Overlook for a sunset view of the valley and Allegheny Mountains. Paralleling I-64 East, we took Longdale Furnace Road (SR-269) to Collierstown Road (SR-770), another narrow, paintless road. However, about a half mile on the ascent, the road switched to gravel. With sunset coming in the next hour, we decided to bail on the endeavor. Dad was on his Triumph Tiger, but I was on my Triumph Sprint GT sport-tourer. Had we started earlier in the day or been on true adventure bikes, we would have gone on. But with dusk upon us, we called it a day.
Michael’s New York Style Pizza in Clifton Forge is a perfect spot to eat and reflect on the local area’s fantastic riding.
Day 2: Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls Loop
If you only have one day for riding in the Alleghany Highlands, the Chamber of Commerce and Tourism’s Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls scenic loop is the ride for you. Starting at the Masonic Theatre in downtown Clifton Forge, the route north out of town on Rose and Sioux streets becomes Sulfur Spring Road (SR-606). The climb up and over the ridge was especially twisty at the top, where 1st and 2nd gears were needed for the tighter switchbacks. While we only had intermittent glances over our shoulder of the valley below, the view was stunning. It was a nice clear, dry spring day, making this part of the ride a motorcyclist’s chef’s kiss.
After the climb, Sulfur Spring Road flattens a little and even gains a median line after passing Airport Drive. At the intersection with Hot Springs Road (U.S. 220), we turned left and headed south towards Covington, passing Falling Spring Falls again on our right.
Dad and I had a great trip, and we enjoyed the hospitality and comfort of the Ridgley Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens.
In Covington, we turned right on East Riverside Street and hopped on the Midland Trail (U.S. 60). Where U.S. 60 merges with I-64, we took Dunlap Creek Road (SR-159). Again, I recommend saving maps to your phone for offline use as well as writing down the general waypoints and route numbers since cell coverage is spotty along the route. Who needs cell service anyway when you can enjoy light traffic, bucolic scenery, the fragrance of fresh-cut grass, and the hum of the bike? We cruised along at no more than 45 mph for the next 25 miles, crossing Dunlap Creek over and over.
At Crows, SR-159 merges with the Kanawha Trail (SR-311) and passes briefly through West Virginia. In Sweet Springs, West Virginia, we stopped for a map check and to read three roadside markers. One informed us our present location was once part of Virginia; another told us that John Floyd, governor of Virginia from 1831-1834, was buried nearby; and the last told us that the Rowan Memorial Home, which was once a resort, includes a building from 1833 designed by Thomas Jefferson.
Ridgley Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens
Back in Virginia and just before Paint Bank, we made a hard left onto Potts Creek Road (SR-18) and started heading north again. Our return to Clifton Forge, which included Blue Spring Run Road and Rich Patch Road (both designated SR-616), was a delightful ride along creeks and was full of curves, dips and rises, and a mix of open countryside and dense forest.
Back at the Ridgely, Dad and I enjoyed another relaxing sit on the sweeping porch and discussed highlights of the last two days. We had a fantastic time in the Alleghany Highlands, and we’ll be back. In the fall, I’m sure sitting on the porch and watching colorful leaves fall from the 100-year-old oak tree would lift nature’s veil to reveal even more of the valley below.
Nathan Cuvelier’s first motorcycle ride was after a primer on his dad’s Honda Shadow Spirit in a parking lot. The next day the two embarked on a ride through the White Mountains of Arizona. He’s been hooked ever since and relishes escaping northern Virginia traffic on two wheels whenever he can.
Plan your perfect West Virginia motorcycle trip with our list of the Top 5 Motorcycle Roads in West Virginia.
Visitors to Rider’s Touring page regularly search for rides in West Virginia, and it’s easy to see why. Known as the Mountain State and nestled in the heart of the Appalachians, West Virginia offers superb riding, great scenery, and rich history. Our list of the Top 5 motorcycle roads in West Virginia includes must-ride routes in the state, with details, photos, and links to tour stories to help you make the most of your trip. Ride over mountains and into valleys, along babbling creeks and through dense forests, and take in everything West Virginia has to offer.
Seneca Rocks is one of the highlights of a ride on U.S. Route 33 in West Virginia. Photo by Nathan Cuvelier.
U.S. Route 33 is one of the highest-rated motorcycle roads in West Virginia. Start from Elkins and continue east 80 miles toward the Virginia border, passing through Monongahela National Forest along the way. This route includes lots of steep elevation changes and peg-scraping twists. This road also passes by Seneca Rocks, a must-see rock formation that rises 900 feet above the North Fork River. Hop off the bike here to stretch your legs and admire the area’s natural beauty along hiking trails.
The Germany Valley scenic overlook on U.S. Route 33 provides a nice view of the area. Photo by Scott A. Williams.
Continuing on U.S. 33 into Virginia takes you through the George Washington National Forest and Shenandoah Valley toward Harrisburg, with more thrilling riding along the way.
A bird’s eye view of the Midland Trail National Scenic Byway near the Gauley River and Hawks Nest State Park. (Photo courtesy Adobe Stock)
The Midland Trail is a National Scenic Byway that crosses the state from Kentucky in the west to Virginia in the east, covering 117 miles. The state’s capital of Charleston is a great starting location for this ride, with plenty to do in the city before hitting the road. Just south of Charleston is Kanawha State Park, a nice place for camping for those who prefer sleeping under the stars.
Heading east from Charleston, the road follows the Kanawha River with a particularly thrilling section of twisties around Chimney Corner. Just past this section is Hawks Nest State Park. From here, the road continues with a few more twisty sections to Rainelle, home of the Old Stone House historical marker, and on toward Lewisburg, where riders can fuel up, grab a bite to eat, and refresh.
U.S. Route 250 travels through the Monongahela National Forest. Photo by Nathan Cuvelier.
This road begins in Elkins, West Virginia, and continues southeast to the Virginia border after passing through the Monongahela National Forest. From Elkins to the border, the road traverses 50 miles. Much of this road follows large creeks and flowing streams, offering good variety with technical sections through the mountains and easy riding in valleys.
Through the Monongahela National Forest, several scenic pull-offs allow riders to stretch their legs and enjoy the scenery. From U.S. 250, a short trip south on State Route 92 will take riders to Green Bank, home of the world’s largest steerable telescope.
From the northern end of the Coal Heritage Trail, take a quick jaunt east on U.S. Route 19 to ride over the New River Gorge Bridge. Photo by Steve Shaluta.
The Coal Heritage Trail is a National Scenic Byway that starts in the town of Bluefield in southeastern West Virginia and continues north to Fayetteville. As the name implies, this route takes riders through coal towns and sites of industrial enterprises in the region – perfect for riders with a passion for history. Starting in Bluefield, U.S. Route 52 to Welch follows railroad tracks along Elkhorn Creek through the valley. As the road continues north of Welch as State Route 16, it varies from twisty sections up and over ridges, easy valley riding, and quaint small towns.
Along this road are historical stops like the World War Memorial Building to African American Veterans, the Coal Heritage Mural, the Helen Coal Miners Memorial, and more. From Fayetteville, riders can continue east on U.S. Route 19 over the New River Gorge Bridge, the longest steel single-span arch bridge in the Western Hemisphere and a not-to-be-missed feature of any West Virginia trip.
Part of West Virginia Route 20 follows the New River with beautiful views along the way. Photo by Scott A. Williams.
WV Route 20 is the longest state route in West Virginia at 256 miles. On the southern end, it starts in Bluewell and heads north, passing through small towns and following rivers, streams, and creeks. The route is mostly through heavily wooded areas, proving shade during hotter months.
The section of SR-20 from Buckhannon to Webster Springs is an ideal 55-mile route for motorcyclists, with plenty of curvy sections of road. It passes through Holly River State Park, which is surrounded by densely wooded mountains and offers campsites and cabins. Traffic is light in this section of SR-20, but the small towns the route passes through will have lower speed limits. The part of road closest to Webster Springs in the south is the most thrilling. SR-20 is an excellent choice for riders wanting to enjoy West Virginia’s small-town charm coupled with less crowded pavement and natural beauty.
Crossing Anthony Creek near Blue Bend, West Virginia, as we make our way toward the Virginia border on this Virginia-West Virginia Motorcycle Ride. (Photos by the author)
Riding challenging curves through beautiful mountain scenery spikes my happy gauge, and the border region of eastern West Virginia and western Virginia is ripe with options. Great roads curve along rivers, wind through national forests, and roll through small towns, with interesting sights along the way.
The historic small city of Lewisburg, West Virginia, offers good restaurants and lodgings, providing a convenient base of operations. I connected there with my long-time riding partner Steve Efthyvoulou for two day-ride loops that took us over (and over) the border between the Virginias.
Day 1: Into the Alleghany Highlands
After breakfast, we pointed our bikes north on U.S. Route 219 to Anthony Road, where a right turn put us on an entertaining and frequently narrow road that parallels Anthony Creek. Recent deer strikes on this road involving riders we know had us on heightened alert for creatures aptly named Odocoileus virginianus. We continued deer-free through the village of Anthony and past Blue Bend. A right onto State Route 92 (Pocahontas Trail) took us south through Alvon and to the outskirts of White Sulphur Springs.
Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER
A one-exit run on Interstate 64 east delivered us to State Route 311 (Kanawha Trail). We crossed into Virginia and entered George Washington National Forest. A few miles on, we encountered a curious double tunnel under a railroad. The original passageway was built of stone; the metal culvert must have come later.
SR-311 hugs Tygers Creek southeast toward Crows, where we went right to follow Dunlap Creek. We crossed back into West Virginia, and south of Sweet Springs, SR-311 continues left as Peters Mountain Road, curving in spectacular fashion to a ridge. There it returns to Virginia and cuts through a patchwork of green including wilderness and recreation areas, campgrounds, and trails for hikers and off-roaders.
On the outskirts of Paint Bank, where SR-311 crosses Potts Creek, the Lemon Hotel proudly flaunts its vivid yellow exterior. This historic mountain home, dating from 1909 and now operating as a bed-and-breakfast, continues the yellow theme to the garage, chicken coop, deck chairs, guest bicycles, and likely other accoutrements. Green trim mimics the leaves of a lemon tree. I’d wager the yellow lodgings are fabulous, but I was more interested in following yellow lines painted on smooth, black asphalt.
The very yellow Lemon Hotel is in Paint Bank, Virginia, along State Route 311 in the Jefferson National Forest.
Paint Bank Road continues switching back and forth down Potts Mountain, with several scenic views signposted. At New Castle, we turned left onto State Route 615 (Craig Creek Road). The road meanders less than its namesake waterway, but it’s still engaging. To our right, we noticed suspension-style bridges across the creek that look like scaled-down Golden Gate Bridges. Where Craig Creek makes its final sweep right to join the James River, we turned left onto State Route 621 (Roaring Run Road), which slices along Karnes Creek.
At Low Moor, we turned left onto U.S. Route 220, cut north through Covington, and continued on Hot Springs Road, gaining elevation through curves into the Alleghany Highlands. Beyond the junction with State Route 684, we stopped at Falling Spring Falls.
In his 1781 book, Notes on the State of Virginia, native son and future U.S. President Thomas Jefferson wrote, “The only remarkable cascade in this country is that of the Falling Spring in Augusta. It falls over a rock about 200 feet to the valley below.” These days the drop is just 80 feet because mining operations from 1927 to 1941 rerouted the stream to the current falls. It’s still beautiful, but I wonder how the original 200-foot cascade looked.
Passing through the village of Anthony, West Virginia.
Continuing on U.S. 220, we encountered arcs and hairpins climbing to a ridge, then curved down to the center of Clifton Forge, which offers multiple choices for lunch. Steve selected 42 Deli, where we ordered BLT subs overflowing with bacon. (There’s no such thing as too much bacon.)
After lunch, we continued north on Douthat Road to State Route 39 then turned left for more curves to the West Virginia border. Down in Marlinton, we turned left onto U.S. 219 through Buckeye and Hillsboro. In Pocahontas, we visited Droop Mountain Battlefield State Park, site of an 1863 Civil War battle that ended organized Southern resistance in the still-new state of West Virginia. A walk up the observation tower rewarded us with a panoramic view of the Greenbrier River Valley. Continuing south on U.S. 219, a combination of sweepers and twisties returned us to Lewisburg to complete the day’s loop.
Day 2: West Virginia High
The next morning, our second loop started east from Lewisburg on U.S. Route 60 then turned south at Cadwell onto State Route 63 (Monroe Draft). At Organ Cave, this road joins U.S. 219 (Seneca Trail), and at Pickaway we turned right onto State Route 3 toward Sinks Grove and Wolf Creek. At Alderson, SR-3 crosses the Greenbrier River and bends gently west and south for a relaxed run along this scenic river.
Twin peaks reflect off the New River in Sandstone, West Virginia.
At Bellepoint, the Greenbrier and New Rivers converge, and just past Hinton we encountered a fantastic section of State Route 20. With tight turns and elevation changes, it moves along Gwinn Ridge with practically perfect pavement. At Sandstone we parked at the general store and walked around back for a close-up look at the New River. It’s among the oldest rivers on Earth, flowing northward through West Virginia valleys and canyons. On a perfect June morning, it couldn’t be prettier.
Reversing course, we enjoyed SR-20’s curves in the opposite direction. At Hinton, SR-3 presents a curvy stretch of two-lane to Shady Spring. There, U.S. Route 19 south got us down to Odd Road, which given its continual curves, is anything but odd for West Virginia. In the village of Odd, we turned right. Then at Coal City Road, we turned left for more twisties. At Amigo we picked up State Route 16 and wound through Stephenson and Corinne to Mullens.
Riding north out of Mullens on State Route 54 led us to a succession of twisty backroads including State Routes 97 and 3, Mattsville Road, Lower Sandick Road, and Clear Creek Crossing Road. In the village of Clear Creek Crossing, the riding got even better when we turned right onto Clear Fork Road. The tight curves border on perilous, but wow, it was fun!
East of Bellepoint, West Virginia, SR-3 curves gently along the Greenbrier River.
Clear Fork Road ends (sigh) at Maple Fork Road, then we went left on State Route 16, right on 61, and left on 41. Farther on, we reached a highlight of the day, Babcock State Park, featuring Glade Creek Grist Mill and a series of streaming waterfalls.
Returning to SR-41, we continued to U.S. 60 and got exactly what we’ve come to expect from a great West Virginia road: smooth tar with elevation changes and thrilling curves. What a way to finish this ride. At the intersection of U.S. 219, we were back in Lewisburg.
Morning presented a 664-mile highway jaunt to get home. That’s a long way in a day but a small price to enjoy border hopping the Virginias.
Scott “Bones” Williams engages readers on motorcycle touring, gear, and culture. His writing conveys his love of speed and motion, preference for roads less taken, and role as goodwill ambassador.
This Kentucky and Tennessee motorcycle ride includes a section of the Natchez Trace Parkway, which starts less than 20 miles from downtown Nashville. The historic road follows an ancient pathway for 444 miles to Natchez, Mississippi, on the Mississippi River. (Photos by the author and Cheryl Kessel)
When a family friend decided to celebrate a milestone birthday in Nashville, our interest was piqued. Being big music fans and suckers for seeing new places, especially those with famously good motorcycling roads, my wife, Cheryl, and I decided to tag along. Others handled the search for accommodations and entertainment opportunities for the trip, so I was left to handle the most important job: securing a motorcycle for some adventuring.
None of the rental companies in Nashville had a motorcycle that matched my criteria, so I searched the Riders Share peer‑to‑peer rental website and found a BMW F 750 GS. I had never used this kind of rental service before, and after some easy back and forth with the motorcycle’s owners, our rental was secure. The owners even agreed to deliver the bike directly to our lodging for a small fee. All we had to do was pack riding gear.
Scan QR codes above or click Day #1 or Day #2 to view routes on REVER
After a late‑night arrival in Nashville, we settled into our rental apartment downtown. About noon the following day, a clean, blue GS rolled up. The friendly owners, Madison and Tim, gave me some great local knowledge tips for our first afternoon of riding.
Day 1: Leiper’s Fork and the Natchez Trace Parkway | Tennessee Motorcycle Ride
We did not have time on this trip for the complete 444 miles of the famed Natchez Trace Parkway, but I knew we had to ride part of it. Tim gave me a strategy for seeing some great locations and sampling the parkway in an afternoon of riding. Nashville is a hive of tourist activity, and leaving the metro area went how you would expect. We weaved around party buses and through the dense traffic, finally leaving behind the neon lights, blaring music, and bar‑hopping activity for a Tennessee motorcycle ride through the countryside.
The 1,572-foot-long Natchez Trace Bridge is an impressive structure both from below and from above. It carries the Natchez Trace Parkway 145 feet above State Route 96.
We headed northwest on Interstate 40 through farmland and beside impressive southern mansions, both historic and modern. Our eyes, conditioned by the muted pastel hues of our home state of Arizona, were dazzled by the vibrant greens of the Tennessee landscape. After exiting the freeway at McCrory Lane, perfectly furrowed crops and geometrically mowed estate lawns lined the sweeping corners. On State Route 96, the Natchez Trace Bridge, with its sweeping, whitewashed double arches, grew on the horizon.
A bit more riding brought us to Leiper’s Fork. The quaint village, once a virtually unknown dot on a map, has emerged as a small, thriving arts and entertainment center. It is also near sprawling estates owned by music and entertainment superstars like Faith Hill, Tim McGraw, and Nicole Kidman.
On the town’s short main street, we dropped a kickstand at the Fox & Locke Restaurant, a historic establishment with a common feature at any bar or restaurant in this neck of the woods: a stage for live performances. Cheryl ordered the classic BLT, and I chose the catfish sandwich – flaky white fish topped with a medley of slaw, grilled onions, and pickles – which was a culinary highlight of our entire vacation.
The Fox & Locke in Leiper’s Fork, Tennessee, is a favorite stop for motorcyclists near the Natchez Trace Parkway.
After a walk by the shops and galleries of the small town, we rode onto the Natchez Trace Parkway. It was almost surreal how the traffic dropped away, the road became smooth, and the terrain morphed into an undulating delight. Mowed grass lined the sweeping corners of the parkway, and wooded thickets added to the texture of the ride. I did not have to slow for traffic once on our way to the Parkway’s northern end, which included riding over the massive bridge that we rode beneath earlier. The entirety of the Natchez Trace is now on my bucket list of rides.
After exiting the Parkway, we passed another famed local eatery, the Loveless Cafe, but I was too full from lunch to indulge in their legendary biscuits and gravy. We made our way to the Belle Meade Estate and Winery for a brief tour of the historic property before rolling back into Nashville.
Nashville is a nonstop mix of neon, live music, and bustling watering holes.
We spent the night sampling what has made Nashville famous – music. I doubt there’s a Broadway Street music hall that we did not visit. Night clubs sporting the names of famous country stars teemed with tourists as music blared from every direction. Multi‑leveled bars offered performers on each floor. We opted for the rooftop settings as they tended to be less intense and crowded. Far from a lazy Southern city, Nashville is a frenzy of people and music often referred to as “Nashvegas.”
Day 2: Burning Barns and Bowling Green | Kentucky Motorcycle Ride
With country music still ringing in my ears, I geared up for a solo ride north of Nashville as Cheryl opted to sleep late. I headed northwest toward Ashland City on State Route 12, a smooth and pleasant roll through sweeping corners on a road which lived up to its designation as a state scenic parkway. From Ashland City, I made my way onto State Route 49 on a northeastern path toward Kentucky.
I was fully engulfed in farmland. End‑of‑season cornfields dried in the September sun, and various other crops were green and thriving. An unexpected sight led me to stop and reach for my cellphone. Smoke was wafting from the gables and overhangs of a large red barn. I could not help but think about the short story “Barn Burning” by one of my favorite Southern authors, William Faulkner. Just before I did my civic duty by calling 911, I noticed another barn on the horizon emitting the same white smoke. A quick Google search set me straight.
As it cures, tobacco hangs like giant bats in a Kentucky barn.
It was tobacco curing season, and farmers were drying their crop at 135‑140 degrees with carefully controlled fires within those barns. What was, at first, a concerning sight was now a source of intrigue and education for this Arizona boy. After passing by those smoldering structures, I saw another type of tobacco curing: huge red barns had doors opened wide, and tobacco hung from ceilings. If I hadn’t already done my roadside research, I may have mistaken the tobacco leaves for drying animal hides.
The ride through farmland continued as I passed from Tennessee into Kentucky, another tobacco‑producing state. The road carried new signage as Kentucky Route 383. I rolled into Franklin, a historically rich small city with a beautiful brick and stone downtown area, where Johnny Cash and June Carter were married at the First United Methodist Church. There is much to do in Franklin: thoroughbred racing and gaming at The Mint at Kentucky, tours and live dueling reenactments at the Sandford Duncan Inn, and Kentucky’s largest sunflower maze in August at Ruby Branch Farms. Kentucky is famous for its whiskey, and the Dueling Grounds Distillery is on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail Craft Tour.
A farmer took his tractor to new heights in the region’s rich farmland.
On my way out of town, I stopped at The Fork In The Road, an art installation of a Paul Bunyan‑sized utensil located at the corner of Bunch and Uls roads. Continuing north on U.S. Route 31W toward Bowling Green, I passed Octagon Hall, an eight‑sided brick home built in 1847 that is now a museum of Civil War artifacts.
Bowling Green is not just a bustling and vibrant Southern city; it is also the only place in the world where Corvettes are made. I rode past and beside several of the sleek Chevys as I made my way through the city, which is also home to the National Corvette Museum. I motored through the attractive Western Kentucky University campus with its white‑columned and red‑brick buildings. The campus also preserves several historic structures like the impressive Felts Log House, which was built by a Revolutionary War veteran around 1810 and relocated to its current location in 1980.
This unassuming building squats directly on the Tennessee/Kentucky state line.
After WKU, I made my way to the downtown district. The town square is a lively city centerpiece. A garden‑like central park sits in the shadows of historic stone buildings, and a beautiful fountain sits as the heart of the setting. My walk around the city center included several historically significant buildings and memorials. The area is well worth a visit.
The quick route back to Nashville from Bowling Green would be Interstate 65, but where’s the fun in that? I rode U.S. Route 231 south through southern Kentucky and northern Tennessee until I made the southwestern turn onto U.S. Route 31 toward Nashville. It was a nice, relaxing end to my “exposure” of this part of Tennessee and Kentucky. We ended the night back on the streets of Nashville, visiting the famed Ryman Theater, listening to country music, and sampling Tennessee whiskey.
The beautiful town square in Bowling Green, Kentucky, is a great place to drop a kickstand and stretch the legs.
Nashville, Bowling Green, and the other smaller towns I visited all exuded their own Southern charm. This was my first visit to the area, and it won’t be my last. I plan to ride the entire Natchez Trace Parkway, and the Nashville area will be either the staging location or the end game to that journey.
Fog was stubborn this morning at Seneca Rocks, but it couldn’t dampen my admiration for West Virginia backroads.
What I like most about motorcycles is that they lean, a trait I describe to nonriders as “dancing with a machine.” A motorcyclist can select a dance partner ranging from a svelte sportbike to a big‑boned tourer, but how well that partner performs depends on the quality of the dance floor: the road.
My favorite motorcycle dance floors are smooth asphalt ribbons that snake over mountains and along waterways, and some of the best I’ve found anywhere are West Virginia backroads. Appropriately called the Mountain State, it’s where the Allegheny, Blue Ridge, and Appalachian mountain ranges converge. With the highest average elevation of any state east of the Mississippi River, the roads curve over and around a rugged, varied landscape. The quality of road surfaces in West Virginia is generally superb (see sidebar at end of article). For riders who love to lean, it’s idyllic.
Scan QR codes above or click “Day 1,” “Day 2,” or “Day 3” to view routes on REVER
As I made my way south into West Virginia on these great winding roads, a familiar anthem played in my head, albeit somewhat revised: Asphalt heaven, West Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountains, Shanandoah River….
No disrespect to John Denver, but your humble scribe gives top billing to the West Virginia backroads. I was headed to Elkins, a small city at the edge of the Monongahela National Forest in the heart of Randolph County where a group of riders had bivouacked at the Holiday Inn Express. This location offered easy access to the region’s fantastic roads and a short walk downtown to multiple options for post‑ride dinner and libations.
Next morning, I mounted my BMW R 1200 RT and joined routemeister Ed Conde for a well-planned 245‑mile loop through the Allegheny Highlands. In morning fog, our group rode south on U.S. Route 250, then turned north on State Route 28 at Thornwood. The road was fantastically curvy, though a low‑pressure warning for my rear tire was a cause for concern. After turning east on U.S. 33 at Judy Gap, we stopped at the Germany Valley scenic overlook, which was fogged in but had room for several bikes to safely pull off the road. I discovered a screw in the center of my tread, but the right tools – and folks willing to help – made for a quick repair.
Stiff winds atop Spruce Knob forced these evergreens to grow leeward.
At Franklin, we turned north on U.S. 220. Just past Upper Tract, we continued north on Smoke Hole Road. This very narrow, winding two‑way road has continuous blind corners, elevation changes, and no center line, with several curves signposted at 5 mph. In one curvy section, we had to get past a farmer whose tractor was pulling a trailer with implements sticking out the side. He pulled as far over as he could, and we squeezed by and acknowledged his effort. The pavement was not as smooth as most roads that day, but the adrenaline meter was pegged. Smoke Hole Road isn’t for the faint of heart.
Located on U.S. 33 on the way to Franklin, this convenience store looked at home in West Virginia.
We rejoined SR‑28 near Cabins and wound our way south along the North Fork South Branch Potomac River to Seneca Rocks, where ragged rock ridges reach skyward 900 feet. During World War II, American soldiers trained on these cliffs, and many applied the skills they learned to scale the cliffs of Normandy on D‑Day. These days, the rocks are popular with climbers and photographers.
Our ride had been largely within the Monongahela National Forest, and we were back in the heart of it. We rode west on U.S. 33, north on SR‑32, north on SR‑72 (Dry Fork Road, another winding, single‑lane gem), and east on U.S. 48, part of the Seneca Trail, to the hip little town of Thomas in Tucker County. At The Purple Fiddle, where “Live Music Lives,” our lunch break included a performance by a physician-musician who sang about a strained relationship with his one‑eyed grandmother: “We don’t see eye‑to‑eye.”
David Somers of Northfield, New Jersey, motored toward the summit of Spruce Knob along NF 104.
Lunch cravings satisfied, we rode north through Silver Lake and Aurora, over to Macomber, and down to Parsons. A growing part of West Virginia’s energy industry is powered by wind, and we encountered giant turbines spinning atop ridgelines. Later, riding south on deliciously winding U.S. 219, a wide‑load pilot vehicle stopped all traffic so a tractor‑trailer hauling a giant windmill blade could get through a section of tight turns. The impressive rig rolled by as we waited. The long blade had wheel‑trucks attached directly to it, turning the blade into a trailer transporting itself. As the afternoon sunshine grew warmer, we eased back to Elkins.
Out of several local restaurants near the hotel, I picked C. J. Maggie’s and joined other riders for supper at the bar. Later, as we socialized on the hotel’s back patio, the mayor of Elkins, Jerry Marco, paid us a visit. Hizzoner was gracious and welcoming, genuinely pleased to have dozens of motorcyclists staying in his city.
Truth in advertising.
In the morning, I hit the road early and solo, with more twisties and high elevations being my key goals. As I pulled my bike up off the sidestand, I felt some soreness across my chest. Rowing the handlebars of a 630‑lb sport‑tourer at a quick pace over hundreds of miles of tight curves had proved a workout.
Aiming the RT east along winding U.S. 33, I made rapid progress toward Alpena, Harman, and Onego. Asphalt heaven, West Virginia repeated in my head as smooth, curvy blacktop unfolded like a roller coaster. It was worth the 600‑mile ride from my home in western Massachusetts to ride these roads. And here’s some down‑home irony: The primary author of John Denver’s hit “Take Me Home, Country Roads” is Bill Danoff, who revealed in an interview that the song was inspired by his upbringing…in western Massachusetts! Danoff felt the word “Massachusetts” didn’t sound musical, so he wrote the song about West Virginia.
A lay-by along NF 112 offered this midmorning vista toward Circleville.
I turned north on SR‑28 for a view of Seneca Rocks, then back south to U.S. 33 and Briery Gap Road, where a right turn revealed a view of wickedly serpentine asphalt ahead. Time to apply those trackday lessons on body position.
Farther on, a right onto National Forest 112 took me through a tunnel of trees. This road was fairly smooth, suitable for a spirited but reasonable pace. Sight distances were short, and at the crest of a blind rise, an oncoming car reminded me to be wary of oncoming traffic.
Zipping along NF 112 felt like being in a tunnel of trees.
A few switchbacks added excitement, but it was repeated deer sightings that quickened my pulse. A doe suddenly appeared in the road ahead, and I hit the binders. She trained her big ears on me and then looked behind. Moments later, a wobbly, spotted fawn appeared at her side. It was captivating to see two beautiful road hazards step effortlessly up a steep incline and vanish into the woods.
Turning right onto NF 104 took me to the summit of Spruce Knob. At 4,863 feet, it’s the highest ridge in the Allegheny Mountains and the highest point in West Virginia. On this clear day, the view from Spruce Knob was spectacular.
Spectacular view from Spruce Knob, the highest point in West Virginia.
Reversing course, I again savored those wicked twisties descending Briery Gap Road. My ears popped as I reached U.S. 33, now 3,000 feet below the summit. I stopped again at Germany Valley, this time enjoying a fog‑free view and no flat tire, then rode all the way to Brandywine in Pendleton County. I turned south on County Road 21 and rode past Sugar Grove Station, a National Security Agency communications site that reportedly intercepts all international communications entering the eastern U.S. Since I wasn’t expecting any illicit communiques that morning, I turned west to enjoy curvy Moyers Gap Road.
With no fog and no flat tire, the view of Germany Valley was beautiful.
At U.S. 220, I turned south and briefly entered Virginia (what a young boy there called “regular Virginia”). At U.S. 250, I cut right and stopped in Monterey for a late lunch at High’s Restaurant. This venerable eatery now holds the distinction of serving me the best fish sandwich I’ve ever had: rainbow trout, sourced from a local creek, fileted and grilled to perfection, and piled on a brioche bun. “Delicious” can’t do it justice.
High’s Restaurant in Monterey, Virginia, is a great spot for lunch.
As I continued north and east on U.S. 250, I rode up and down ridges and leaning through a succession of tight curves that had me laughing inside my helmet. And it was clear the instant I crossed the state border and entered Pocahontas County: Virginia’s road surfaces are good, but West Virginia’s are superb.
From Thornwood, the ride back to Elkins reversed the beginning of the previous day’s route. A fun road in the opposite direction was its own fun ride. Back at the hotel, I connected with other riders and walked downtown to another local eatery, Mama Mia Pie & Pasta. Over Italian entrees and local craft beers, we compared notes from our day’s riding.
David Somers (foreground) and Mitch Pivor of Dover, New Hampshire, motored down from the summit of Spruce Knob along NF 104.
Morning presented another opportunity to ride glorious West Virginia asphalt, this time with my long‑time riding partner Steve Efthyvoulou. Temps started cool, and the previous day’s crystal blue sky was now tarnished gray with smoke from massive wildfires in Canada. We went south on U.S. 250, a now‑familiar route out of Elkins. Turning south on SR‑28, we saw signs for the Green Bank Observatory, home of the world’s largest steerable radio telescope. Astronomy nerds will want to stop, but today we were observing asphalt, laid out before us in smooth, banked curves.
The view over Hightown, Virginia, from a lay-by along U.S. 250. Steve and I rode through that farm a few minutes later.
At SR‑66 we turned west toward Snowshoe, one of West Virginia’s premier ski resorts. It was June, so the slopes were green, and we stopped for lunch at Kickin’ Chicken. Loaded with protein, we paralleled the Tygart Valley River on U.S. 219 north to Valley Head, where a left onto SR‑15 set us up for an afternoon twist fest. The road presented often tricky curves to Webster Springs, where we picked up SR‑20 for more fantastic curves. Flat light due to the wildfire haze softened the contrast between sun and shadow, improving visibility on these technically challenging roads.
Some roads just sound enticing. This one is off U.S. 33 near Oak Flat.
Near the West Virginia State Wildlife Center, we turned right onto Alexander Road. This narrow, curvy two‑lane is full of tight corners and elevation changes, all the way to U.S. 250, where we turned north on a familiar route back to Elkins. Another amazing day was in the books. Though I had previously ridden through West Virginia several times on the way to other riding destinations, this was my first dedicated trip to ride the Mountain State – and I just scratched the surface. Without a doubt, there’s asphalt heaven on West Virginia backroads.
Randy Damron, a liaison between West Virginia’s departments of Transportation and Tourism, clued me in. Damron rides a Honda Gold Wing and a Kawasaki KLR, so he understands the motorcycling community. He explained that the improved quality of the state’s roads in recent years owes much to “Roads to Prosperity,” a road construction and maintenance initiative to support West Virginia residents, industry, and tourism.
Transportation and Tourism partnered to create four West Virginia Mountain Rides (with more on the way) that are in excellent condition, have good shoulders and guardrails, and run through beautiful scenery. The Seneca Skyway, for example, is a signposted 300-mile loop that includes several roads covered in this story. Go to the West Virginia Department of Tourism website and click on “Road Trips” to learn more.
The Trace through Land Between the Lakes offers scenic picnic areas for a mid-ride break.
These days, I’ve become so enthralled by all the great motorcycle roads around the world and on my bucket list that I forget about the ones close to home. For this ride, I retraced steps from my early riding days with a 140‑mile Tennessee motorcycle loop around my hometown of Dover, which is located on the Cumberland River about 30 miles west of Clarksville and, as the crow flies, a little over 60 miles northwest of Nashville.
We started out at the Dyers Creek boat ramp, just across the river from downtown Dover. Then we rode across U.S. Route 79 and onto Bumpus Mills Road. This road has some of the best curves of the loop – the perfect way to get our blood pumping at the beginning of the ride.
When we got to the end of the road at the junction with State Route 120, we turned north and stopped at the family‑owned Bumpus Meals Diner. We had hoped to pop in for a bite of their handmade desserts and a cup of coffee, but the diner was closed that day as the family and staff were enjoying the Thanksgiving weekend.
My husband, Jake, and I revisited many of the roads we explored as high schoolers with fresh driving licenses.
Oh well, onwards we went. The next stretch of the ride took us into Kentucky on State Route 139. It can be tempting to pick up the speed on this road, but we knew we couldn’t get too carried away. Much of this land is farmed by Amish communities, and you never know when you’ll run up behind a horse‑drawn buggy just over the next hill.
An optional spur is to take a right on State Route 164 and visit the Oak Ridge Country Store. We love their homemade cheeses, deli sandwiches, and local canned and pickled foods. There are other stops along the road where you can purchase smoked meats, honey, fresh produce, and other goods.
We continued our Tennessee motorcycle loop north until we came to U.S. Route 68, where we turned west for 15 miles and rode over the Cumberland River and into Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area. We turned south at the Woodlands Trace National Scenic Byway, also known as The Trace (not to be confused with the Natchez Trace Parkway, which runs between Nashville and Natchez, Mississippi).
State Route 232 has nice sweepers and little traffic, allowing us to ride at our own pace without having to worry much about other drivers.
The Trace is a beautiful road that runs right through the center of LBL. Along the way are the Golden Pond Visitors Center and Planetarium, picnic areas, a bison range, campgrounds, the Turkey Bay OHV Area, and the Homeplace 1850s Working Farm and Living History Museum.
We continued through LBL and back toward Dover. At the end of The Trace, we turned west on U.S. Route 79 and popped in at Brien Dill’s Piggly Wiggly. I worked at this grocery store throughout high school and college and still enjoy stopping by to visit with past coworkers and the owner, Brien, who rides a BMW R 1250 GS Adventure and loves chatting about motorcycles.
My first employer, Brien Dill, always has a smile and loves chatting about bikes.
Down the highway about 6 miles, we turned south onto State Route 232, also known as the “Baby Dragon.” Unlike the famous 11‑mile road in East Tennessee with a similar name, the Baby Dragon doesn’t have tight, technical curves, but it has plenty of long sweepers with good visibility. By the time we got to the end of the Baby Dragon, we were getting hungry, so we stopped at Southernaire Motel & Restaurant for a meatloaf plate with turnip greens and black‑eyed peas.
Cruising down the “Baby Dragon.”
After a tasty lunch, we continued east through the towns of Stewart, Tennessee Ridge, and Erin until we got to Cumberland City, where candy‑striped steam stacks from the TVA power plant stretch up into the sky. We rode down to the ferry, paid 75 cents (tickets are $1 for out‑of‑state motorcycles), and hopped over the river.
Southernaire has an extensive menu, but you can’t go wrong with the meatloaf plate.
The last leg of this route goes through Indian Mound, the part of Stewart County where I grew up. Maybe I’m biased, but this is my favorite portion of this favorite ride. The roads through the Mound rise up over ridges and snake down along creeks and past fields of cattle. The last road is Old Highway 79, the curviest road of the loop.
The TVA power plant employs many local residents, including my dad, and the ferry just south of the plant offers a quick jump across the river.
At the end of Old Highway 79, you’ll find yourself back on U.S. Route 79 and just a stone’s throw away from the boat ramp where we began this route. Revisiting these roads and stops that have always been a part of my life gave me a renewed appreciation for my community and town. Sure, there are places in the world with more dramatic views and more exciting roads, but at the end of the day, these are the roads I’ll always come back to.
My fully loaded Kawasaki Versys-X 300 was a trooper on this Kentucky motorcycle ride.
It’s funny how sometimes the best parts of a motorcycle trip have nothing to do with the destination or even the motorcycle. One such moment on a recent Kentucky motorcycle ride involved me relaxing in a hammock under the shade of a tarp, a little sunburnt and a lot exhausted, dozing off for a much-needed nap.
Why was I so exhausted? Hours of walking – first through the woods amidst sinkholes and springs, then deep underground at Mammoth Cave National Park.
From my home in northern Kentucky, I rode south to Frankfort, the state capital, which has a historic downtown reminiscent of many of the small Kentucky cities that punctuate the farmland and curvy roads in this area.
To fortify myself for the ride to Mammoth Cave, I stopped at Main Street Diner, a ’50s-themed restaurant with checkered floors, colorful decor, and vinyl records in the jukebox. It serves a tasty and satisfying plate of biscuits and gravy, one of my favorite road foods. With historic buildings, colorful murals, and interesting shops and restaurants, Frankfort’s well-preserved downtown area is attractive and vibrant.
An hour and a half of riding through rolling hills landed me in Campbellsville. The day was quickly warming up, so I stopped at Harden Coffee to cool off with an iced chai latte and relax in the calm, quiet cafe.
After another hour of riding, I arrived at Mammoth Cave National Park’s visitor center – always my first stop on trips like this. I can’t count how many interesting trails, roads, and sightseeing opportunities I’ve discovered by speaking to the knowledgeable rangers at visitor centers in state and national parks. They know more than the internet and the brochures combined, and they’re more than happy to share their insights with curious travelers.
My campsite at Mammoth Cave National Park was surrounded by trees and felt pleasantly secluded.
With a marked-up map of treasures in hand, I arrived at my campsite and set up camp. My neighbor and his young daughter expressed their awe of how much gear I had fit in the 170-plus liters of storage space on my Kawasaki Versys-X 300. In campgrounds, people may stare, but they rarely talk to the odd solo woman on her motorcycle, so the conversation was welcome.
After the ride and setting up camp, I was too tired to venture far to find actual firewood. I purchased some compressed sawdust “logs” at the cute and convenient camp store nearby, allowing me to enjoy a campfire before bedtime.
Rok Straps are indispensable for securing cargo, such as when I needed to transport compressed sawdust “logs” from the store to my campsite.
Hiking Through the Forest and Touring Underground
First on my agenda was to hike some of the trails in Mammoth Cave National Park. While the park is best known for its extensive underground cave system, I had to give the trails aboveground a chance too.
Descending to the entrance of Mammoth Cave takes visitors to another world that’s as massive as its name implies.
With names like Sinkhole, Green River Bluffs, and Echo Springs, I was looking forward to seeing what unique features would exist on the trails in this area. Most of them were paved or gravel, which aren’t my favorite surfaces to hike on, but they’re accessible to most walkers – a benefit to anyone looking for an easy hike. I was able to view rock formations, sinkholes, and a spring that arises from within the cave system itself. I saw wildflowers exploding in bloom and several different vantage points of the Green River, which runs into the cave system (and whose eroding properties ultimately created the cave itself).
Soon after, I had the opportunity to take one of the many options for cave tours offered by the park. I chose the Extended Historic tour, a 2.25-hour hike through 2 miles of the main parts of Mammoth Cave. I’m glad I booked in advance because when I arrived, almost every tour for the day was sold out.
The inside of the cave greets you with both wide and tall passageways.
A blissful 54 degrees underground felt great after my sweaty, sunny hike to the visitor center, where the cave tours begin. Learning about the cave was fascinating. Mammoth Cave is the longest cave system in the world, with over 400 miles mapped and possibly more than 600 miles yet to be explored. Scientists and researchers uncover new passages nearly every day. Over thousands of years, the cave has been used by Native Americans, soldiers in the War of 1812, slaves, and even a failed tuberculosis clinic. Now its main purpose is to entertain and educate tourists who travel through its dark recesses.
After the tour, I rode into nearby Cave City, past dozens of billboards for other caves and attractions in the area. There were many options to choose from, but I was hungry, so I stopped at a restaurant called 5 Broke Girls. I am not exaggerating that they make the best onion rings I’ve ever tasted – and a mean patty melt too. I’ll stop there again when I’m in the area.
The patty melt and onion rings at 5 Broke Girls were amazing.
My next stop was Market KY, a bright and colorful shop with a fun assortment of candies and treats, as well as a wall of stickers and a myriad of T-shirt options. A few boutique sweets might have found their way into my saddlebag.
Overburdened on My Kentucky Motorcycle Ride
Back at camp, I was struggling. I was once told that every item you bring on a motorcycle camping trip is a burden. I never really understood this. If the item is useful and offers you shelter or sleep or sustenance, how could it be a burden?
I learned my lesson on this trip. With my new Givi luggage, it was easy to pack my bike to the gills. This exhausted me in two ways. For one, my kit was heavy, and this meant all my low-speed maneuvers felt sluggish and I was easily thrown off-balance. I hate dreading the process of parking or making a U-turn, preferring to be as nimble and light as possible.
In hindsight, while many of my camping items were nice to have, some of them weren’t necessary.
Secondly, unpacking and sorting through a pile of gadgets and trinkets to find that one spatula I brought or that collapsible bowl that I ended up forgetting to use when I simply ate out of the dehydrated food package was frustrating and time-consuming.
Finally, I was tired of zippers! Moving my wallet or keys from a zippered pocket of a jacket to a different zippered pocket of my tankbag and back again was tiresome, and I had to repeatedly double check where things were. I hate that panicked moment when you reach into a pocket and the item isn’t there, only to find it in a different pocket moments later.
I ended up going through the trusty things I always use and setting them out front and center, while putting superfluous items aside. This helped ease my frustration, and now that I understand the idea of items burdening us more than I did before, I will be packing much lighter next time.
This underground river has a small but beautiful dripping waterfall.
Back on the Road
It had been a minute since I had ridden more than just to a restaurant and back, and this was a Kentucky motorcycle ride after all. At the visitor center the day before, the ranger had shown me various roads on the map, so I set off to ride one of them: Mammoth Cave Parkway. The speed limit was only 35 mph, so there wasn’t a lot of opportunity to enthusiastically traverse the many curves. One thing I did enjoy, however, was the lovely drop in temperature in this area. It was a welcome reprieve from the hotter conditions elsewhere.
The curves of Mammoth Cave Parkway are fun to ride, but the 35-mph speed limit reduces the thrill.
The next day, I rode to Bowling Green, a bustling small city about 30 miles from Mammoth Cave National Park. I stopped in the historic downtown and enjoyed views of Fountain Square Park, which was surrounded by boutiques, a theater, and the Meltdown ice cream shop. Resistance to frozen treats is futile.
Fountain Square Park is in the heart of Bowling Green.
Meltdown offers house-made ice cream in unique flavors like brown sugar chocolate chip and dump cake (a Southern amalgamation of pineapple, cherries, yellow cake mix, and butter). I’ve had dump cake many times, and putting it in ice cream elevated it to new heights. I savored a sweet scoop on a bench near buzzing bumblebees that were enjoying their own treat of some purple flowers.
The Capitol, a historic theater in downtown Bowling Green, is across the street from Fountain Square Park.
Bowling Green is where Chevrolet Corvettes are produced, and it’s home to the National Corvette Museum. Although I had been to the NCM Motorsports Park racetrack, which is located across Interstate 65 from the museum, for motorcycle track days, I had never been inside the museum. I spent over an hour looking at exhibits, such as a cross-section of the third Corvette ever created, powerful racecars, the iconic Batmobile, and even the remnants of a sinkhole that happened at the museum in 2014.
The exterior of the National Corvette Museum in Bowling Green features a sculpture of a classic ’Vette.
This natural disaster damaged eight Corvettes, one of which was estimated to be worth $750,000. While the damage had been cleaned up, markings on the floor showed the vast size of the sinkhole – over 40 feet wide – and a plexiglass panel on the floor showed the bottom of the sinkhole, 30 feet below my feet. Standing there was both eerie and exhilarating.
Before leaving, I ate at the museum’s restaurant, the Stingray Grill. It wasn’t your usual cafeteria-style grill but rather a swanky eatery with nice decor and even better food. I can add “blackberry bacon grilled cheese” to the list of delicious foods I’ve tried.
Corvette fans will love the depth and breadth of the museum’s exhibits.
Finding a Lost River
The final thing on my list for Bowling Green was what initially drew me to this area in the first place: the Lost River Cave. Although much smaller than Mammoth Cave, as its name implies, Lost River Cave has a river leading into it, and the owners run an underground boat tour.
A lost river is a waterway that flows into a cave or underground passageway. I was fascinated by the idea of floating into a cave, so I hopped into the small pontoon boat and listened to my charming tour guide tell the history of this cave.
The Lost Cave boat tour was a unique way to experience an underground river.
Having changed hands many times over the years, the cave’s worst fate was when it was filled with trash, and perhaps its best was when it was a secret nightclub during Prohibition. I was content with its current life as a touristy but fun and engaging tour. It was thrilling to duck under the low ceiling at the entrance to the cave and float along the dam inside that was built to keep the water in.
The next day, it was that bittersweet time to pack up and leave, thus ending this particular Kentucky motorcycle ride. I had a great experience at the national park and exploring Cave City and Bowling Green. I also enjoyed the downtime, especially that nap in my hammock on the day I ventured into Mammoth Cave. Over the short span of just a few days, I had hiked at ground level in forests and museums, walked underground in cool and dark caves, floated along a lost river, and even hovered 30 feet above a sinkhole. This trip had a little bit of everything, and I look forward to coming back.
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