After a 400-mile ride from Louisville, Kentucky, to Clifton Forge, Virginia, relaxing on the wraparound porch at Ridgely Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens was just what Dad and I needed. Perched above the town and built in 1902, Ridgely served as our homebase for two days of riding through the hollows, over the ridges, and under the canopies of trees in the Alleghany Highlands of Virginia’s Mountain Region during this Virginia motorcycle ride.
When we got hungry, Dad and I walked down the hill and into town for a well-earned meal at Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery, where I had a delicious New York strip and a Log Hopper Tavern Kolsch. Afterwards we settled into our comfortable rooms to get some rest for the next day’s riding and exploring.
Day 1: Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge Loop
With our kickstands up early the next morning, we rode one of the scenic routes recommended by the Alleghany Highlands Chamber of Commerce and Tourism, which has a visitor center in nearby Covington (the routes are also available on the Chamber’s website). We began with the Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge loop.
Just west of Covington, we checked out the Humpback Bridge, the last covered humpback bridge in the U.S. Built in 1857 from wood cut by broad axe, it’s 110 feet long and four feet higher in the center than on the ends. It’s hard to imagine that the tranquil Dunlap Creek flowing below could ever threaten to wash away the bridge, but that possibility was the reason for the hump in the middle. Once a part of the Midland Trail (U.S. Route 60), the bridge stopped carrying vehicular traffic in 1929. The National Historic Landmark is now the centerpiece of a delightful five-acre park.
Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER
Next, we turned north on Indian Draft Road (State Route 600), a pleasantly remote stretch of road that eventually loses its yellow centerlines. Following natural hollows created by Cove Run and Indiandraft Creek, the road weaves its way through dense foliage shrouding both sides of the road. It was about this time that I realized the Google Map of the route I pulled up using a QR code at the visitor center was no longer tracking because I was out of cell range. Being able to digitally disconnect is one of the great things about riding in remote areas, but I recommend downloading maps to your phone for offline use (the REVER app allows you to do this; see map above) or bringing a paper map as a backup.
From Indian Draft Road, we wound our way to East Morris Hill Road (SR-666) and then Coles Mountain Road (SR-605) to Gathright Dam. Named after the man whose land was overtaken by the reservoir, the dam was authorized in 1946 but not completed until 1976. Needed to protect life and commerce along the flood-prone James and Jackson rivers, it created 2,530-acre Lake Moomaw, which is stocked with trout and bass and ringed with campgrounds.
The Lake Moomaw visitor center provided a nice spot to stretch our legs and check the route to Falling Spring Falls, another truly unique wonder. To get to the falls, we backtracked on Coles Mountain Road to Natural Well Road (SR-638). Just before turning right onto Jackson River Road (SR-637), we saw a sign for the Jackson River Scenic Trail, a 16-mile rails-to-trails multiuse pathway. We turned left onto Falls Road followed by a left on Hot Springs Road (U.S. 220).
The waters of Falling Spring Creek tumble down 80 feet to the rocks below in a postcard-perfect location, with the cascade framed in green foliage and a view of the Allegheny Mountains to the left. On the side of the road, there is a pull-off for parking and an overlook with a picnic area, but there is no trail to the falls, so they must be enjoyed from a distance.
With our morning ride complete, we headed back to Clifton Forge to check out the C&O Railway Heritage Center, a must-visit attraction for those who love trains and railroads. The museum occupies what was once a freight depot built in the late 1800s, and the exhibits illustrate the intertwined history of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway and the town of Clifton Forge. C&O was once the world’s largest hauler of bituminous coal, but it was also known for luxurious passenger service. The museum’s collection includes old C&O uniforms, fine china and silverware, model trains, and displays about the railway’s evolution. It was fascinating to see a photo of fully loaded railway cars parked on a bridge during a flood to keep the bridge from washing away, as well as instructions given to an engineer for the arrival of Franklin Roosevelt’s funeral train on April 15, 1945. Outside are massive coal-fired steam engines, cabooses, and dining cars that are open to visitors.
Next, we walked to the nearby Alleghany Highlands Arts and Crafts Center and saw an exhibit of art created by a former railroad worker. Dad and I dined next door at Michael’s New York Style Pizza, where the aroma of baked dough, ’80s music, and wood-paneled booths and tables took me back to the pizzerias of my childhood. All that was missing was a Ms. Pac-Man tabletop arcade game.
See all of Rider‘s South U.S. touring stories here.
After our late lunch, we mounted up again to try and make it to North Mountain Overlook for a sunset view of the valley and Allegheny Mountains. Paralleling I-64 East, we took Longdale Furnace Road (SR-269) to Collierstown Road (SR-770), another narrow, paintless road. However, about a half mile on the ascent, the road switched to gravel. With sunset coming in the next hour, we decided to bail on the endeavor. Dad was on his Triumph Tiger, but I was on my Triumph Sprint GT sport-tourer. Had we started earlier in the day or been on true adventure bikes, we would have gone on. But with dusk upon us, we called it a day.
Day 2: Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls Loop
If you only have one day for riding in the Alleghany Highlands, the Chamber of Commerce and Tourism’s Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls scenic loop is the ride for you. Starting at the Masonic Theatre in downtown Clifton Forge, the route north out of town on Rose and Sioux streets becomes Sulfur Spring Road (SR-606). The climb up and over the ridge was especially twisty at the top, where 1st and 2nd gears were needed for the tighter switchbacks. While we only had intermittent glances over our shoulder of the valley below, the view was stunning. It was a nice clear, dry spring day, making this part of the ride a motorcyclist’s chef’s kiss.
After the climb, Sulfur Spring Road flattens a little and even gains a median line after passing Airport Drive. At the intersection with Hot Springs Road (U.S. 220), we turned left and headed south towards Covington, passing Falling Spring Falls again on our right.
In Covington, we turned right on East Riverside Street and hopped on the Midland Trail (U.S. 60). Where U.S. 60 merges with I-64, we took Dunlap Creek Road (SR-159). Again, I recommend saving maps to your phone for offline use as well as writing down the general waypoints and route numbers since cell coverage is spotty along the route. Who needs cell service anyway when you can enjoy light traffic, bucolic scenery, the fragrance of fresh-cut grass, and the hum of the bike? We cruised along at no more than 45 mph for the next 25 miles, crossing Dunlap Creek over and over.
At Crows, SR-159 merges with the Kanawha Trail (SR-311) and passes briefly through West Virginia. In Sweet Springs, West Virginia, we stopped for a map check and to read three roadside markers. One informed us our present location was once part of Virginia; another told us that John Floyd, governor of Virginia from 1831-1834, was buried nearby; and the last told us that the Rowan Memorial Home, which was once a resort, includes a building from 1833 designed by Thomas Jefferson.
Back in Virginia and just before Paint Bank, we made a hard left onto Potts Creek Road (SR-18) and started heading north again. Our return to Clifton Forge, which included Blue Spring Run Road and Rich Patch Road (both designated SR-616), was a delightful ride along creeks and was full of curves, dips and rises, and a mix of open countryside and dense forest.
Back at the Ridgely, Dad and I enjoyed another relaxing sit on the sweeping porch and discussed highlights of the last two days. We had a fantastic time in the Alleghany Highlands, and we’ll be back. In the fall, I’m sure sitting on the porch and watching colorful leaves fall from the 100-year-old oak tree would lift nature’s veil to reveal even more of the valley below.
See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.
Alleghany Highlands Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources
- Virginia Tourism
- Alleghany Highlands
- Lake Moomaw
- C&O Railway Heritage Center
- Alleghany Highlands Arts and Crafts Center
- Ridgely Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens
- Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery
- Michael’s New York Style Pizza
Nathan Cuvelier’s first motorcycle ride was after a primer on his dad’s Honda Shadow Spirit in a parking lot. The next day the two embarked on a ride through the White Mountains of Arizona. He’s been hooked ever since and relishes escaping northern Virginia traffic on two wheels whenever he can.
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