This quiet, cozy, well-stocked cabin was our home away from home while visiting North Georgia. Lodging options are plentiful in the area. (Photos by the author.)
My family and I live in Jacksonville, Florida, where midsummer heat and humidity can press down on you like a weight. Looking for a respite, we headed for the higher elevations of the Blue Ridge Mountains in North Georgia, some of the southernmost mountains in the 2,000-mile Appalachian chain. Where there are mountains there are usually good motorcycling roads, and North Georgia has some real gems.
With my wife, kids, and parents piled in the family hauler and my motorcycle on the trailer, the six-hour drive had all the makings of National Lampoon’s Vacation. We avoided any hijinks, but we were relieved to arrive at our favorite cabin in Cleveland, Georgia.
With my family preoccupied with their own wanderings, I was eager to head out for a ride.
I’m an MSF instructor with more than 20 years of riding experience, but as a flatlander I had to recalibrate my brain to the tight curves, camber changes, rises, and dips that are common in North Georgia.
Discarded hiking boots adorn an oak tree at Walasi‑Yi Interpretive Center, a popular place to rest and restock on the Appalachian Trail at Neels Gap. The southern trailhead for the AT is 29 miles away on Springer Mountain.
From Cleveland, I rode north on U.S. Route 129 to U.S. Route 19/129, which forms the eastern side of a famous loop known as the Georgia Triangle that connects U.S. 19, State Route 60, and State Route 180. Heading north on U.S. 19/129, I stopped at the Walasi-Yi Interpretive Center, where the Appalachian Trail cuts through Neels Gap. The small stone building was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, and both it and the AT were completed in 1937. Walasi-Yi supports AT hikers with a hostel, bathroom and shower facilities, a mail drop, a store, and shuttle services.
Cloudy skies obscured the views from Brasstown Bald, but on a clear day you can see four states. Georgia’s tallest mountain is accessible via a steep, windy road off State Route 180.
After enjoying the sweeping, roller-coaster curves of U.S. 19/129, I turned east on SR-180 and headed toward Brasstown Bald, Georgia’s highest peak at 4,784 feet. From Jacks Gap, getting to Brasstown Bald requires riding up a narrow, winding one-way up, one-way down road with guard rails, low speed limits, and unrestricted views of the surrounding mountains. Once near the top, it costs $8 to park, and you can take a shuttle or hike the last 0.6 mile to the observation tower, where you can see four states on a clear day.
A nice view of the Blue Ridge Mountains from an overlook on Richard B. Russell Scenic Highway (State Route 346), a fun road through the national forest near the Georgia Triangle.
Backtracking on SR-180, I turned south on State Route 346, also known as the Richard B. Russell Scenic Highway, which meanders through the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest for 23 miles. It ends at State Route 75A, and continuing east another few miles takes you to the charming but tourist-heavy town of Helen, which is modeled after a Swiss alpine village.
I was there to ride, so I rode south on SR-75A, reconnected with U.S. 129, and then turned left (south) on U.S. 19. At the roundabout at Stonepile Gap, I continued north on SR-60, another wonderfully winding mountain road that forms the western leg of the Georgia Triangle.
After passing the Two Wheels of Suches motorcycle resort on my left, I turned right (east) on SR-180 (Wolf Pen Gap Road), the northern leg of the Georgia Triangle, which is the tightest and most technical of the three.
The Appalachian Trail crosses State Route 60 at Woody Gap, 3,160 feet above sea level.
After passing Lake Trahlyta and Vogel State Park on the right, I turned north again and took U.S. 19/129 all the way to Blairsville. Rather than contend with traffic on U.S. Route 76, I took a more leisurely route west on the Blue Ridge Highway and then Old U.S. 76. At Morganton, I reconnected with SR-60 and enjoyed more curves on my return to Suches.
After riding nearly 150 miles, I had earned a cold drink, a snack, and some relaxation time in one of the rocking chairs at Two Wheels of Suches. This well-known and well-maintained motorcycle resort and campground is a great place to meet fellow riders, see cool bikes, and have a meal, pitch a tent, or rent a room in the lodge.
For a Florida resident like me, riding in North Georgia is a real treat. Winding roads, mountain scenery, and cooler temperatures are a welcome break from flat, straight roads and sweltering heat.
The Georgia Triangle and other nearby roads scratched my itch for curvy roads and mountain scenery, and the temperatures were much cooler than back home. The cabin’s grill and a lazy hammock near the burbling creek were calling my name, so I saddled up again and rode back to Cleveland.
Once my family had gathered around the table set with sizzling burgers, everyone asked about my adventures, and I enjoyed sharing my story. As I said to my 7-year-old, the best part of a trip, no matter how near or far, is coming home.
Brian Carpenter lives in Jacksonville, Florida. He’s a life-long motorcyclist who rides year-round, and he participates in the motorcycling community on various levels and is passionate about learning, coaching, and being an advocate for the lifestyle.
Kudzu Curve on Back of the Dragon (Virginia Route 16). (Photo above courtesy Back of the Dragon; other photos by the author and Dan McPhee).
Dan and I met nearly 20 years ago while playing on a recreational ice hockey team in our hometown of Ottawa, Ontario. When we weren’t talking about how bad our team was, we discussed our shared love of motorcycles. Our first motorcycle trip together was a long weekend exploring New Hampshire’s White Mountains.
For our next trip, we spent a week riding in the Appalachians of western North Carolina. We enjoyed it so much that we returned the following year. Dan and I became regular riding partners, and we’ve done tours throughout the U.S. and Canada. Recently, we returned to the Appalachians to celebrate the 15th anniversary of our first ride there.
Dan made a new friend at the Back of the Dragon store in Tazewell, Virginia.
After a long day and a half riding south on Interstate 81 from Ottawa, we kicked off our backroads bonanza near Wytheville, Virginia, which is in the heart of a half-dozen excellent loop rides known collectively as Claw of the Dragon. We exited I-81 at Marion and rode north on State Route 16, a road known as Back of the Dragon that winds its way through the mountains to Tazewell, a nice Appalachian town that’s a perfect place to rest and recharge. It has a variety of restaurants, shops, and motorcycle-friendly lodging options, including The Traveler on Main, which offers vacation suites with full kitchens. The Back of the Dragon welcome center is a hub for riders, offering artisan pizza, self-pouring beer taps, local insights, and souvenirs.
Dan and I on our first ride together to the Appalachians in 2008. Younger, stronger, and better looking, but probably not as wise?
SR-16 runs north-south over three mountains – Big Walker, Brushy, and Clinch – which gives the road its rolling humpbacked character, and its 32 miles have more than 400 curves. It weaves through lush, green forest and includes open valleys and scenic views. Changes in elevation are accompanied by changes in temperature that enhance the experience. It was easy to get into the rhythm of the ride and become one with our motorcycles, savoring each curve before moving to the next one.
Same guy, same horse, 15 years apart, at the Shady Valley Country Store on The Snake (U.S. Route 421) in Tennessee.
We enjoyed Back of the Dragon so much that after visiting Tazewell, we turned around and rode it in reverse, doubling our fun. Just north of Marion is Hungry Mother State Park, which surrounds a lake of the same name. At the park’s Royal Oak Campground, we pitched our tents on a wooden platform extended over the side of a hill like a backyard deck, allowing us to relax while nestled among bucolic trees.
Our campsite with the tent platform at Hungry Mother State Park, just off Virginia Route 16.
The next day we followed backroads south to Damascus and crossed into Johnson County, Tennessee, on State Route 133. We stopped at the Shady Valley Country Store, located at the crossroads of SR-133, SR-91, and U.S. Route 421. It’s a popular waypoint for motorcyclists, and we recreated a photo we’d taken 15 years ago: Dan riding a coin-operated horse made for kids.
After having a few laughs, we rode west on U.S. 421, another famous backroad known as The Snake, which slithers its way for 33 miles through Cherokee National Forest, goes over three mountains, and includes nearly 500 curves. Since Shady Valley is near the middle of The Snake, we rode to the western end in Holsten Valley and then turned around and rode to the eastern end in Mountain City.
Taking a break while riding Appalachian backroads in North Carolina.
As we continued heading south on backroads in western North Carolina, we experienced an unforgettable moment. I was leading as we rode on a straight stretch of road with a river just below us. Through our helmet communicators, Dan told me to look to my right. Flying over the river alongside us, at eye level and the same speed, was a bald eagle scanning the water below. It seemed like we were flying together. The vivid display of nature’s beauty ended all too quickly as the road and river veered in different directions.
After crossing state lines several times, we ended our day in Tennessee, ascending the winding State Route 143 to Roan Mountain State Park. We enjoyed a hearty dinner of sausage and potatoes cooked over the campfire and a quiet night under the stars.
Mountains as far as the eye can see on the Foothills Parkway in Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
The next morning, we continued our southern trajectory on SR-143 back into North Carolina, and then we rode State Route 261 to Bakersville. We took a convoluted, curvy route to Hot Springs, where we turned south on State Route 209, another serpentine backroad known as The Rattler that claims 290 curves in 24 miles.
After riding through the Pigeon River Gorge on Interstate 40, we crossed into Tennessee again and took another winding backroad (State Route 32) along the northern edge of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and then U.S. Route 321. We passed through Gatlinburg, where a boy named Sue once stopped at an old saloon to have himself a brew and met his long-lost father. We didn’t find an old saloon on the heavily trafficked, tourist-friendly streets, so we made our way to Elkmont Campground in the park and settled in for another quiet night.
Dan and I with the Tail of the Dragon store’s namesake at Deals Gap.
Prior to meeting Dan, most of my motorcycle rides were of the solo variety. I was a “dawn to dusk” rider, all business, putting in the miles, with riding great roads my solitary goal. Riding with Dan has taught me to slow down and smell the roses. He enjoys talking to strangers, meeting people, and experiencing things other than riding. We’ve helped each other expand our horizons. I’ve shared the joys of riding long miles, and Dan encourages me to enjoy the parts of a trip that are off the bike.
Over the years, we’ve become great friends. Dan is like a brother to me. Our families have gotten close, and we know we can count on each other for the important things in life. Our friendship seems to be a rarity in today’s highly polarized world. We have different political views, but I don’t hold it against him that he’s usually wrong in every political discussion, nor does he hold it against me. We agree to disagree, yet we still respect each other.
Wilson Creek Valley overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina.
Sunrise brought us another beautiful day, and we headed south into the heart of Great Smoky Mountains National Park on Newfound Gap Road (U.S. Route 441). The park gets upwards of 13 million visitors per year, so it’s hard to find a time when U.S. 441 doesn’t have a lot of traffic, but it’s still a beautiful ride. Our favorite part is The Loop, where the road curves around 360 degrees and crosses over itself.
At the Newfound Gap overlook on the Tennessee-North Carolina state line, we admired the views of the road, the lush forest, and the blue-tinged ridges of the Smokies. Rather than continue south to Cherokee, we turned around and headed north to Pigeon Forge, where we picked up U.S. 321 again and then Foothills Parkway, a relaxing ride with spectacular views that got us in the right frame of mind for what would come next.
Dan and his Yamaha Super Ténéré enjoying some curves in northern Georgia.
At Chilhowee Lake, we turned east on U.S. Route 129, which runs along the edge of the lake for a few miles before climbing up to the Calderwood Dam overlook. This is the northern tip of Tail of the Dragon, the most famous backroad on our Appalachian greatest-hits tour. With 318 curves in 11 miles, it’s one of the tightest, twistiest sections of road in a region full of tight, twisty roads.
Dan was especially excited, exclaiming “I think I touched a peg!” in our helmet communicators. He rides a tall Yamaha Super Ténéré adventure bike, and it was a first for him. The beauty of Tail of the Dragon is the endless supply of curves, many of them nicely banked, and the lack of cross traffic. The downside is that motorcycle and car traffic can be heavy, especially on the weekends.
Carving my Gold Wing through curves in northern Georgia.
After crossing back into North Carolina near Deals Gap, we headed east on State Route 28, aka Moonshiner 28, and stopped to visit the impressive Fontana Dam. We followed SR-28 for its entire 81-mile length, which includes the Waterfall Byway (Bridal Veil Falls is a must-stop spot) and Indian Lake Scenic Byway, to the Georgia state line, where SR-28 continues south. Northern Georgia roads are fantastic, with wide curves, perfect pavement, and little traffic, which made it easy to get into a good flow.
We made our way west to Two Wheels of Suches, a motorcycle-only lodge and campground located on the Georgia Triangle, an excellent loop that connects U.S. Route 19, State Route 60, and Wolf Pen Gap Road (State Route 180). At the campground, we met a young man on a ’70s-era Harley hardtail chopper that he built himself. Hearing about his cross-country trips on that bike with its 2-gallon gas tank and leather-covered steel seat made Dan and I embarrassed for complaining that our heated grips don’t get quite hot enough.
Our campsite at the Two Wheels of Suches motorcycle-only resort in northern Georgia.
Having hit our southernmost point, it was time to start heading north. We followed backroads through Georgia and South Carolina before returning to North Carolina, eventually picking up the Blue Ridge Parkway for a relaxing cruise to Maggie Valley, where a hotel room and a barbecue meal awaited us.
The next day, we visited Wheels Through Time. Unlike most museums that are static and filled with signs that read “Do Not Touch,” WTT lets you get close to over 300 motorcycles on display. Staff members circulate and tell stories about various bikes, and they often start bikes to let visitors hear how they run.
During our visit to Wheels Through Time in Maggie Valley, North Carolina, Matt Walksler gave us a tour of the restoration shop.
During our visit, Matt Walksler, who now runs the museum after his father, Dale Walksler, passed away in 2021, invited a small group of us to join him for a behind-the-scenes tour of the shop where bikes are restored. Seeing the vintage engines, gas tanks, wheels, and parts along with several motorcycles in various states of restoration was incredible.
The next day, we left Maggie Valley and headed for Rider’s Roost, a motorcycle resort and campground in Ferguson, North Carolina. When we arrived, we discovered a lively scene and a band playing on the Friday of Memorial Day weekend. We set up our tents and went to join the party. It was different from the quiet campgrounds we were used to, but the “everybody is a friend” atmosphere made for a great evening of country rock music, darts, and beers.
Our campsite at Rider’s Roost Motorcycle Resort and Campground in Ferguson, North Carolina. A live band was playing about 300 yards away.
It was a long, two-day interstate slog back to Ottawa, which gave us plenty of time to reflect on our fantastic week exploring the best backroads in the Appalachians. The memories will last forever, another chapter in the book of experiences that Dan and I have written together. Hockey brought us together, but long motorcycle journeys have been the secret to our long-lasting friendship.
Trevor Denis has been addicted to motorcycling since he learned to ride and twisted the forks on a Honda XL80 with an accidental jump when he was 11. His thoughts and garage are mostly full of motorcycles. He lives in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, with his understanding wife, two great kids, a cat, and a lazy dog.
This rider is enjoying the curves along State Route 60 on his way to Two Wheels of Suches, which is an ideal spot to stop for a cool drink and to see cool motorcycles. (Photos by the author)
Formed roughly 480 million years ago, the Appalachians are a chain of mountains that stretch from Newfoundland, Canada, down to central Alabama. Eons of erosion have rounded and softened their edges, and rivers and creeks have cut deep creases within their slopes. The result is a nearly endless variety of roads that follow the contours of the land, attracting motorcyclists from far and wide like moths to a flame.
The Appalachian Trail begins in North Georgia, on Springer Mountain, not far from one of the best riding loops in the Southeast. The three sides of the Georgia Triangle are anything but straight. In fact, the triangular loop made up of U.S. Route 19 and Georgia State Routes 60 and 180 has some of the most challenging curves and best scenery in a region known for both.
The Georgia Triangle is located in the Blue Ridge Mountains just north of the charming, historic mountain town of Dahlonega. The three-road loop is located within the Chattahoochee National Forest, and there’s an abundance of streams, waterfalls, lush forests, and historic sites in the area. Add in numerous tourist attractions, activities, hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, campgrounds, and eateries, and you’ve got everything you need for a great day ride or a long weekend of exploration.
Plying the curves on State Route 180.
Six miles north of Dahlonega, the triangle begins where U.S. 19 meets State Route 60 at Stonepile Gap. Within the junction’s roundabout is a mound of stones that is said to mark the burial spot of Cherokee Princess Trahlyta. According to legend, Trahlyta was a beautiful princess kidnapped by a Cherokee warrior she refused to marry. Her dying wish was to be buried near her home on the mountain, though she probably didn’t imagine her grave would be surrounded by a ring of asphalt.
Riding north on Route 60 toward the town of Suches is the first leg of the triangle. If you have not been practicing your cornering skills, be cautious. These roads are not for the faint of heart. They can either be exhilarating or nerve-wracking, depending on your motorcycle’s cornering clearance and your comfort with tight S-curves and decreasing-radius turns. For the alert, confident rider, these roads offer an unforgettable riding experience, with gorgeous scenery and well-maintained pavement.
A shady spot on State Route 180.
About 5 miles up Route 60 is Woody Gap, and a look to the left reveals an expansive valley with Springer Mountain rising on the other side. The Appalachian Trail crosses the road nearby, and other stops on the road have signs and information about Civil War battles, gold mining sites, and hiking trails.
In the small town of Suches is a well-known motorcycle lodge and campground called Two Wheels of Suches, a popular meet-up spot. On weekends the parking lot is filled with bikes of all styles and vintages, and riders from all over. There’s an onsite restaurant that serves burgers, sandwiches, snacks, and drinks on Friday nights and weekends. The main lodge offers rooms for rent, and there are small cabins and campsites with a bathhouse on the property. A single-person campsite is $15/night, cabins are $65/night, and lodge rooms are $75/night.
Two Wheels of Suches is a motorcyclists’ oasis.
A stone’s throw from Two Wheels of Suches is the junction with State Route 180, also known as Wolf Pen Gap Road. This segment of the ride is without a doubt the most challenging leg of the triangle, with more tight curves and steep grades per mile than any other paved road in Georgia. The first few miles are a sedate and primarily straight two-lane blacktop leading to Lake Winfield Scott Recreation Area. When the lake’s emerald-green water is calm, it acts as a large reflecting pool for the mountains that surround it. And it is a particularly scenic spot in the fall when the leaves change color.
Once past the lake, the roller-coaster ride begins with a sign that says “Sharp Curves and Grades Next 5 Miles.” Route 180 snakes through the Sosebee Cove Scenic Area with speed limit signs on some curves reading as low as 10 mph, with nary a straight section of road. Stay sharp and heed the caution signs. The great thing about this section of the Georgia Triangle is that it’s only 11 miles long – the same length as the Tail of the Dragon in Tennessee – so you can ride it back and forth to your heart’s content.
Canada Creek passes through the Two Wheels of Suches property.
In Cherokee mythology, Blood Mountain, located within the Georgia Triangle, was home to the Nunnehi or Immortals. It was also the site of a fierce battle between the Cherokee and Creek tribes.
Just before Route 180 merges with U.S. Route 19, it passes by Lake Trahlyta, which is part of Vogel State Park. You can swim in the lake and stay in the park, which offers tent camping, RV sites, and rental cottages and yurts. Georgia is often hot and humid in the summer, even up in the mountains. I have stopped here on a hot day for a quick change and a swim, so pack your swimsuit.
Riding south on U.S. 19 is the last leg of the triangle. The road here is wider, with passing zones for easily and safely getting around slower traffic. Still, it has magnificent twisting sections of repeating S-curves and turns, great scenery, and worthwhile stops all the way back to the triangle’s starting point.
Lake Trahlyta is part of Vogel State Park, located in the northeastern corner of the triangle.
Continuing to the junction with Route 60 yields total mileage around the triangle of about 36 miles. The travel time for a nonstop ride is about 90 minutes at a reasonable rate of speed, but why hurry? The beautiful forest ride and options for stops make a leisurely pace worthwhile. Or, follow the lead of many motorcyclists and repeat the loop or run it in reverse. You won’t be bored, I promise.
Part of what makes the Georgia Triangle such a target-rich destination is that it’s a hub for other great rides in the area. Route 60 is a joy to ride not just to Suches but beyond, all the way to Route 76. From there, head east to Hiawassee, the scenic town on Lake Chatuge, or west to Route 515, which becomes I-575 and takes you to Atlanta.
A real estate investment opportunity on U.S. 19.
If you’re looking to explore further, taking Route 60S (also known as Murphy Highway) northeast at Mineral Bluff into North Carolina will lead you to U.S. Route 74 and the town of Murphy, North Carolina. Continuing east on U.S. Route 64 is a scenic ride through the Hiawassee River and Lake Chatuge areas, and several roads connect back to the Georgia Triangle area.
Continuing north on U.S. 19 past Vogel State Park, Route 180 breaks away again and continues east. A short hop on 180 takes you to State Route 348, also known as the Richard B. Russell Scenic Highway, another gem of a road. Or continue east on 180 to Brasstown Bald, the highest point in Georgia (4,784 feet), which on a clear day offers a 360-degree view of four states.
Ride to eat, eat to ride. The Smith House in Dahlonega serves some of the best country cooking in the region. Don’t wear tight pants.
If you are planning a stay in the area, Dahlonega is a charming, historic town known for its history of gold exploration and mining. Legend has it that in the 1540s, Spanish explorer Hernando DeSoto searched this area for El Dorado, the legendary lost city of gold. Dahlonega was the site of the second major U.S. gold rush in the early 1800s and still has active mines where visitors can pan for gold and gemstones. For lunch or dinner, I highly recommend the Smith House, which serves fried chicken, ham, sides, and desserts family-style, with platter after platter passed around long tables. Just to the east of Dahlonega is Helen, a quaint alpine-style village. Both towns offer many choices for lodging, dining, and shopping.
If you’re undecided about which road to ride first, throw a dart at the map – chances are wherever it lands, you’ll find a winner. North Georgia offers hundreds of miles of great roads to ride, and the Georgia Triangle is just the beginning.
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