Wunderlich Side Wind Deflectors fit 2017-18 R 1200 GS and 2019-23 R 1250 GS models (but not GS Adventure models) and are available in clear or tinted (shown).
After more than 17 years of riding successive generations of BMW RTs, I recently switched to riding a 2020 R 1250 GS. Even though my new-to-me GS is equipped with an oversized Puig Touring windshield, the amount of turbulence and wind noise at speed is significantly higher than it was on my former RTs. My last was a 2015 R 1200 RT equipped with the superb Werks Quiet Ride windshield, which enveloped the rider in a still pocket of calm air regardless of how fast the bike was moving. In fact, I’ve hosted several conference calls for work while traveling down the highway at extra-legal speeds, and nobody even knew I was in motion.
Wunderlich Side Wind Deflectors installed on my new-to-me 2020 BMW R 1250 GS.
In fairness, I never expected this level of protection from the GS, which is designed for adventure touring, not sport-touring like the RT. But for long highway trips and especially on cold days, I wanted more wind protection than what the stock bike offers. The hunt for solutions led me to Wunderlich Side Wind Deflectors, which fit 2017-18 R 1200 GS and 2019-23 R 1250 GS models, but not GS Adventure models.
Wunderlich’s deflectors are made of scratchproof, shatterproof 5mm acrylic plastic, and they’re available in clear or the dark tinted finish shown here. The kit includes two deflectors, a one-page installation sheet, and mounting hardware. Two brackets per side provide anchor points for the winglets, secured in place with standard M5 T25 Torx hardware running through a series of stabilizing collars and sleeves. There’s a bit of play for adjustability and fine tuning, if necessary.
Wunderlich Side Wind Deflectors are larger than the ones that come as standard on BMW GS Adventure models.
As expected, it’s easiest if you install everything loosely at first, and then tighten down only once final adjustment is completed. Final installation as shown took less than an hour, working methodically. The Wunderlich winglets themselves, each measuring roughly 13 x 4.25 inches at the edges, are quite a bit larger than the stock deflectors on GS Adventure models, which measure roughly 10.5 x 3.5 inches.
Out on the road, the Wunderlich Side Wind Deflectors had a significant impact on the level of wind blast, overall turbulence, and noise experienced at highway speeds. The stock GS has moderate protection for the rider’s torso, but heavy airflow to the rider’s arms. I found that adjusting the windshield to a forward position (nearly vertical) in conjunction with the installed winglets notably diverted air around both my torso and my arms. This provided significant relief on long days gobbling up miles on the slab, which can get tiresome if the rider is being blown all over the place. For hot weather rides or if otherwise desired, the winglets can be quickly removed via 3x M5 T25 Torx bolts per side, allowing for maximum airflow.
Overall, the Wunderlich winglets are a worthy addition for BMW GS riders who partake in long trips at sustained high speeds, cold weather journeys, or otherwise desire a more composed operating environment. They’re priced at $289.95. (They’re also available for 2015-19 BMW S 1000 XR models for $271.95.) – Moshe K. Levy
The new black midrise handlebar and blacked-out powertrain on the R 18 Roctane definitely make it stand out from its siblings.
In my early days with Rider, the BMW R 18 caught my eye. I had never ridden a BMW, and as a cruiser guy it was right up my alley. When one of my fellow editors, Allison Parker, got a chance to ride an R 18 at the BMW U.S. Rider Academy, I expressed interest to Rider EIC Greg Drevenstedt about doing the same.
A few weeks later, BMW announced a new R 18 – the Roctane – and invited Rider to get a first ride on the bike in Germany, so I made my pitch. The ride would coincide with the recently opened 100 Years of BMW Motorrad exhibition at the BMW Museum in Munich, so I figured this would be the perfect opportunity to get a little additional perspective on how we got to this point.
I came away from the trip not only wiser but after two days of riding through the Bavarian and Austrian Alps, much happier.
BMW R 18: A Growing Family
At this stop by Lake Plansee in Austria, it was hard to know what to pay more attention to, the Roctane or the scenery.
The 2024 BMW R 18 Roctane is the fifth member of the R 18 family, which launched its first model in 2020 and was inspired by the iconic BMW R 5 from the 1930s. The Roctane, which BMW describes as a “cruiser, a bagger, and everything in between,” joins the standard R 18, the R 18 Classic, the R 18 B (Bagger), and the R 18 Transcontinental.
The increased trail on the R 18 Roctane contributes to better straight-line stability, an attribute that BMW believes will be appealing to American cruiser riders.
As with the other R 18s, the Roctane has an air/oil-cooled “Big Boxer” Twin engine displacing 1,802cc (or 110ci in the parlance of American cruisers) and mated to a 6-speed transmission, a single-plate dry slipper clutch, and a nickel-plated driveshaft. We dyno’d the 2021 R 18, and it made 109 lb-feet of torque between 2,000-4,000 rpm at the rear wheel.
It’s hard not to argue that if you saw this bike coming your way, you’d want to get a second look as it passed you by.
This thing is a monster, figuratively and literally. The afternoon I arrived in Munich, I went to the BMW Museum. There are some amazing sights to be sure (more details are available here), but one area of note is dedicated to the R 18. It includes a display stand with the 1,802cc Boxer mounted on it. I had seen this display in a photo, but it wasn’t until I was standing in front of the massive engine that I truly realized why it is called the “Big Boxer.” With the partial exhaust pipes coming out of the cylinder heads and hooking down in front like mandibles, it looked like a giant alien insect head dipped in chrome.
Of course, that could’ve been the jetlag and an overactive imagination, but it was still pretty striking.
The insect overlord is here to lead the R 18 troops into battle. OK, I definitely needed sleep at this point in the trip.
Beyond the engine, the R 18 Roctane also shares the same braking and suspension systems as its siblings, with 4-piston calipers biting dual 300mm discs up front and a single 300mm disc in the rear and a 49mm telescopic fork and central rear shock with travel-dependent damping, adjustable spring preload, and 4.7/3.5 inches of travel front/rear.
As to what makes the Roctane unique from other bikes in the R 18 family, one only had to step back and look at it next to other R 18 models at the launch, including the beautiful 100 Years Edition.
Although the R 18 Roctane has the same Rock, Roll, and Rain ride modes as the other R 18s, on a day like this, I’d say there is really only a need for one: Rock.
The Roctane has a blacked-out engine and drivetrain, a Dark Chrome exhaust, a black midrise handlebar, and a larger 21-inch front wheel.
The Roctane’s chassis geometry and seating position falls between that of the standard R 18 cruiser and the R 18 B(agger). Its 7.3 inches of trail is 1.4 inches longer than the R 18 but similar to the R 18 B, while its 67.7-inch wheelbase is right in the middle of the two bikes. At 28.3 inches, its seat height is about an inch taller than the R 18 and again similar to that of the R 18 B.
I didn’t mind the Big Boxer cylinder restricting the forward movements of my legs, but I would’ve preferred bigger footboards and better shift lever and brake pedal positioning.
In the BMW Museum, there was a fascinating wall display of some of the different instrument panels used on the company’s motorcycles over the years, starting with the round analog speedo of the 1930s BMW R 61 and R 71 progressing to the much larger, rectangular display of the present-day BMW R 1250 RT and K 1600 GT.
This display at the BMW Museum shows how the times have been a-changin’, but the instrument cluster on the R 18 Roctane turns back the clock. (Don’t mind the BMW Museum typo next to the bottom TFT display.)
BMW took a different tack with the newest member of the R 18 family. Again inspired by the 1936 R 5, the Roctane’s instrument cluster is incorporated into the top of the metal headlight nacelle, with a classic analog speedometer and an inset multifunction digital display. Some may wish for a little more than the understated display, but for a cruiser, the simplicity works. On the Roctane, in addition to speed, ride mode, and gear selection, you can scroll through other info such as rpm, time, odometer, trip meters, and fuel economy.
But wait, where’s the fuel gauge? Seriously, no fuel gauge? I’d like something more than just a warning.
The 2024 BMW R 18 Roctane has a minimalist instrument cluster built into the headlight nacelle. The time of day is displayed in this photo, but the rider can also choose from a number of other options.
Personally, I love that the ride modes of the R 18 family are called Rock, Roll, and Rain. While somewhat unorthodox, there’s no question of what you’re getting here, and I sampled all three modes on our ride – Rain not necessarily by choice, but it sure is pretty in Germany this time of year.
Each mode moderates throttle response, traction control, and ABS but not the power, and while Roll and Rain were more sluggish, even in Rain, during a couple moments when I needed to overtake a car, the Roctane had what I needed. I just had to twist the throttle harder to get it. In Rock, there was no hesitation, and I was pleased to find that it wasn’t snatchy. Throttle response was immediate, powerful, and smooth, even polishing out some of the engine vibration present in Roll.
The Metzler Marathon Ultra tires were tested – and performed admirably – in a variety of weather conditions.
I would argue – and a BMW rep actually agreed with me – there isn’t really a need for Roll. Besides starting off the ride in Roll and using it coming down from the breathtaking cliffside Burghotel Falkenstein on some narrow, frost-heaved switchbacks that were wet from the previous night’s rain, I mostly kept it in Rock or Rain.
When it came to rocking, the Roctane’s ample trail contributed to reassuring straight-line stability. Blasting down the autobahn at 140 kph (that’s about 87 mph to you and me, kids), it felt solid. There was a decent amount of windblast at those speeds, so if I had to do much of that, I’d be inclined to install one of BMW’s accessory windshields.
The Roctane’s blacked-out engine nicely complements the high gloss chassis bits and Dark Chrome exhaust.
Among the journalists on hand during our ride, the general consensus was that the Roctane would be a better bike for cruising wide-open roads in the U.S. than bending through all the twists and turns in the Alps. Besides the highway stints, most of our high-speed riding over the two days consisted of long sweepers rather than twisties. Those were a true joy on the Roctane, but even for the few spots that were a little tighter, I didn’t have any problem flopping the bike from side to side, even with its 825-lb curb weight.
I was also pleased with the Metlzer Ultra Marathon tires, which were grippy in all conditions, from dry to wet to really wet on some occasions. This is a bike I would gladly take over the well-known Hogback of Scenic Byway 12 in my home state of Utah.
One of the many sweeping corners on our test route, this one wrapping around Lake Plansee in Austria, enhanced the joy of riding the Roctane.
And even though the Roctane is a long, heavy bike, the Big Boxer helps keep the weight low and provides better than expected balance and maneuverability at low speeds. The R 18 Roctane can also be equipped with optional Reverse Assist and Hill Start Control, both of which would be especially handy if the bike was loaded to capacity.
There are a few areas in which the R 18 Roctane could be improved, the first being the position of the foot controls. As we noted in our review of the R 18 Classic, the location of the shift lever relative to the footboard made it nearly impossible to get my boot underneath it. I was able to upshift with the side of my big toe sometimes, but more often than not, I just used the heel shifter. However, given the midmount controls and my 32-inch inseam, it felt awkward. The rear brake pedal seemed similarly difficult to access with my boot. I love the long footboards on my cruiser at home, but on the Roctane, I found myself envious of the guys riding the R 18s with footpegs.
“Filler stripes” that cover the space between the 27-liter top-loading, locking hard cases and the bike can be selected as accessories.
The second area in need of improvement is braking. Like other R 18s, standard equipment on the Roctane includes BMW Motorrad Integral ABS, where the hand lever applies braking force to both wheels but the foot pedal applies braking force only to the rear wheel. This is the first bike I’ve ridden with integral ABS, and while I was able to shed speed when necessary, I was surprised that the brakes didn’t feel more responsive, especially considering those big dual discs up front. I had to apply more pressure at the lever – while also trying to get my boot on that elusive rear pedal – than I would’ve guessed.
The Roctane shares the same braking as other members of the R 18 family, with 4-piston calipers biting dual 300mm discs up front and a single 300mm disc in the rear.
Finally, the top-loading, locking hard cases are stylish and easy to use, but at just 27 liters of capacity in each side, they are on the small side. (The saddlebags on the R 18 B and R 18 Transcontinental are the same size.)
What’s Next for the BMW R 18 Roctane? A Matter of Faith
BMW may not be aiming to be “the better Harley-Davidson,” but that new 21-inch front wheel on the Roctane feels like all-American cruiser.
Those who are considering the R 18 Roctane probably fall into one of three groups: 1) Those who appreciate cruisers and are curious about this one; 2) Those who love all-things-BMW Motorrad; or 3) Those who like Harley-Davidsons and have an open mind.
In any discussion of heavyweight cruisers, Harley-Davidson is always the elephant in the room, even if everyone tries to ignore it. At dinner on the first night, I had an illuminating conversation with Christian Pingitzer, BMW Motorrad’s head of product management, after he asked me about my personal bikes and I told him my main ride is a 2004 Heritage Softail Classic.
“We’re not trying to be the better Harley-Davidson,” he said at one point. “Harley is like a religion.”
One of the beautiful stops along the way during two days of riding the 2024 BMW R 18 Roctane.
It’s no secret that the R 18 models have not sold as well on this side of the pond as BMW might have hoped, and there’s no denying the Roctane bike looks more the part of an American cruiser than its predecessors. On the second day, Tim Diehl-Thiele, head of communications, said that the company was “fully on track” with sales of the R 18s in China and Europe, but “in the U.S., we need time.”
Then he went on to call H-D a “super cool brand” and also referred to it as a religion.
This is interesting to me. I’m a cruiser guy and I’m not religious, but I do agree that Harley-Davidson is like a religion. However, what I’ve come to believe since I’ve been with Rider is that BMW is something of its own religion, and they have their own passionate adherents who love the brand and ignore all the others.
The 1,802cc “Big Boxer” Twin engine is an imposing feature of the R 18 family, but it’s also a unique look that drew me to the cruisers.
Similar to how I choose to dabble when it comes to matters of faith, I also enjoy dabbling in a lot of motorcycle brands. When it comes to the Roctane, I enjoyed the thrill of the power coupled with the confidence it inspired and the comfortable cruising. And I look forward to seeing – and hopefully dabbling in – the future developments of the R 18 lineup.
“Yeah, Pedro (Acosta) is one of the most promising riders since his Moto3™ years and we know he has a connection with KTM, which is understandable. Tony Arbolino is also doing a good job. Let’s see, it’s a little too early, we need a couple more races before considering next year,” said Ciabatti.
Before 2023, there had also only been two events in the MotoGP™ era where Independent Teams locked out the GP podium: Qatar 2004 and Portugal 2020. This season, it’s already happened twice. Argentina saw Bezzecchi win from Zarco and Alex Marquez, and the French GP was also won by Bezzecchi, this time ahead of Martin and Zarco.
“Clearly the performances were there… Of course, the rider needs his team and vice versa. Afterwards, whatever you say, once the lights go out, they are a bit on their own. And here, he clearly demonstrated what he was capable of. Hats off to him! Frankly, I’m glad to see it working so well. Augusto is such a likeable, discreet, hard-working guy… Like Dani (Pedrosa), he also brings a kind of serenity to the team. When you are in such an environment, it is so much more pleasant.”
They’ll be joined by an incredible line-up of famous faces, with Giacomo Agostini, Mick Doohan, Jorge Lorenzo, Freddie Spencer, Casey Stoner, Kevin Schwantz, Wayne Gardner, Kenny Roberts Jr, Alex Crivillé and Randy Mamola already confirmed – between them holding an incredible 35 World Championships.
The 2023 CFMOTO 300SS exceeds expectations with thoughtful features and a good fit and finish. (Photos by Yve Assad)
Last year, CFMOTO returned to the U.S. market with a seven-model lineup. The company’s list of models has since grown to 10, ranging from the 126cc Papio minibike to the Ibex 800 T adventure bike. CFMOTO’s best seller worldwide is the 300SS, a lightweight sportbike with full bodywork.
One of CFMOTO’s value propositions is affordability. The 300SS has an MSRP of $4,499, which is $400 less than the Honda CBR300R and $1,000 less than the more powerful Yamaha YZF-R3. But CFMOTO is going to have to do more than offer a better price to compete with brands that have already earned the trust of many American riders.
The semi-circle of color around the wheels adds personality to CFMOTO’s top-seller.
However, curious to see what makes the 300SS so popular, I spent a month riding it on a variety of city streets, highways, and winding country roads.
Swing a Leg Over
The 300SS is powered by a 292cc Single that makes a claimed 29 hp at 8,750 rpm and 18.7 ft-lb of torque at 7,250 rpm, numbers nearly on par with Honda’s CB300 range of bikes. It’s fairly lightweight at 364 lb, and it sports a narrow seat with a 30.7-inch height and has a 3.2-gallon fuel tank. Riding on a steel trellis frame, the 300SS has an inverted fork and a single rear shock with five-position preload adjustability. For 2023, color options are Nebula Black with red accents (as tested) and Ghost Gray with blue accents.
The 292cc engine is eager to please and easy to handle.
When I picked up our test bike and first swung a leg over it, I was immediately impressed by its appearance alone. The lines on the bodywork are well-done, the colored stripe on the wheels adds personality, and the air vents under the passenger seat make the 300SS look like it means business. Aside from looking cool, it also has good fit and finish.
The clip-on handlebars provide a sporty seating position for zipping around corners, and the carbon-fiber-styled accent on the fuel tank adds character.
The only thing about it that seemed odd was the reach to the mirrors. It’s not something I think about with a new bike often, but when I reached up to adjust the mirrors, they were so far away that I could barely touch them. However, I was able to set the mirrors where I wanted them without having to adjust them throughout the ride, so it wasn’t much of an issue.
Since I picked the bike up in a suburb of Nashville, I had to putter along for a few miles before I could really open it up and see what it could do. Right away, the bike felt easy to ride, and that held true when I was able to get up to speed. Its small size and easy-to-control clutch make it nimble and responsive. The gearing felt dialed in just right. The 292cc engine had plenty of power to zip off from a red light and get me down the interstate, but it never felt like it was trying to run away without me. The 300SS’s smaller size, flickability, and affordability make this bike a smart choice for new riders.
The 300SS comes equipped with full LED lighting, two ride modes, Bluetooth connectivity, ABS, and other thoughtful features.
For a bike with a price below its competition, the 300SS has a few features that were pleasantly surprising additions. For example, it comes equipped with two ride modes: Eco and Sport. I started out using Eco mode but switched to using Sport primarily. There’s not a big difference between the two modes, but Sport is a bit peppier and more fun. And this is a bike to have fun on. It gave me confidence in curves and had me grinning from ear to ear. Shifting gears is smooth, and the sporty seating position made me feel like I was riding faster than I was – in a good way.
Air vents under the passenger seat add to the 300SS’s sporty look.
However, that sportier seating position is not ideal for longer trips. Maybe if I were more used to the sporty ergonomics, I wouldn’t feel fatigued so quickly. As it was, I could ride the 300SS for about 45 minutes to an hour before I started looking for a spot to pull over and shake out the aches. For bopping around town or going on quick sprints close to the house, the narrow profile and firm seat were perfect and put me in a controlling position.
Rear suspension is provided by an Internal Floating Piston monoshock with five-position preload adjustability.
In the sweeping curves through the hills of rural Tennessee, the suspension was just right. The only time I regretted having firm suspension was on the potholed and bumpy Interstate 40 through Memphis, but that section of road is notoriously rough on all vehicles. Everywhere else, the suspension provided a nice balance of control and comfort.
While riding around town, several people approached me to ask about the bike and told me they thought it looked really cool. They say you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, but there’s something to be said for a bike that’s both fun to ride and fun to look at, and the 300SS is both.
The 300SS is CFMOTO’s top-selling motorcycle, and I can understand why. Its quality build, sporty looks, and low price make it an attractive option.
Exceeding Expectations
Another nice touch for a low-price bike is the 5-inch TFT display. The display shows everything you’d expect: odometer, tachometer, speed, fuel level, voltage, temp, time, and gear. When switching ride modes, the layout changes, making it easy to tell the mode has changed but maybe a little harder to find what you’re looking for if you’ve already gotten used to the other layout.
The TFT display changes layout when switched to a different ride mode. I enjoyed both the performance and the display layout of Sport mode.
The display is easy to read as long as it’s not in direct sunlight. When the sun was behind me, I found myself having to move my head to shade the display to read it, which was a little annoying. The display also connects with the CFMOTO RIDE app for navigation and playing music. One feature I appreciated was the security alert. Once connected, the app will alert your phone if the bike is rolled without keys in it, a handy feature if someone tries to take it off your hands while you’re not around.
The mirrors provide a nice view of what’s coming up on your rear. Just make sure you adjust them before you take off, as they’re a little hard to reach while riding.
My only other beef with the display is that, while using the navigation, once the distance to your next turn or destination is less than 0.1 mile, that distance is given in inches rather than feet or yards. Maybe you’re better at judging distances than I am, but if you asked me to walk 5,864 inches in one direction, I’d have to pull out a calculator to figure out approximately how far I needed to go. It wasn’t a problem on the sparsely populated country roads, but while riding in downtown Memphis, it was hard to know if I should turn at the next block or the one after that. Even though I’d prefer measurements in feet instead of inches, having navigation on a low-price model was welcome, and I appreciated all the other information and features available through the CFMOTO RIDE app.
The seating position puts me in a controlling stance, but after about 45 minutes, I’m in need of a stretch break.
Stopping power comes from a 4-piston caliper and a 292mm disc up front and a 220mm disc and single-piston caliper in the rear, and ABS is standard. The rear brake performed its job well, but the front brake felt a little weak. Luckily, such a small bike is not hard to slow down, but if it were much heavier, I’d want more stopping power up front.
More stopping power from the front break would be a welcome upgrade, but the current setup is adequate for this lightweight bike.
Along with the Bluetooth connectivity, ride modes, and the TFT display already mentioned, the 300SS comes equipped with LED headlights, taillights, and turnsignals. This isn’t a bare-bones and cheaply made bike; it’s a well-built machine with thoughtful additions that make the riding experience even better. All-in-all, the 300SS provides a lot for your money.
The 300SS is an enjoyable and affordable ride that CFMOTO should be proud of.
CFMOTO’s 300SS gave me confidence that the brand is on track to earning its keep on American streets. It’s a fun ride with cool looks and an affordable price: the perfect recipe for attracting new riders, whether they’re new to riding in general or just new to CFMOTO. If you haven’t ridden a CFMOTO before, I’d encourage you to give it a try. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised, and with more than 200 CFMOTO motorcycle dealers in the U.S., there’s probably one near you.
For 2023, color options are Nebula Black with red accents (shown a above) and Ghost Gray with blue accents.
Florida SR 13 runs alongside the St. Johns River, which flows lazily from south to north for more than 300 miles and enters the Atlantic Ocean near Jacksonville. For this ride, my relaxed pace matched that of the river.
I should warn you: This Florida motorcycle ride doesn’t include challenging hairpin curves or drastic changes in elevation. The Sunshine State has a well-earned reputation for flat, straight roads, but there are little nuggets here and there that offer riding entertainment of a different sort.
Jacksonville is the second largest city by area in the contiguous U.S., so it’s spread out in clusters of population density. To get away from the hustle and bustle, I headed to a local favorite for motorcyclists, State Road 13, which runs for nearly 50 miles along the east bank of the north-flowing St. Johns River from Jacksonville south to Spuds, a rural community that grows exactly what its name would suggest.
On the day of my ride, I hit the lottery in terms of traffic. I had the day off for Presidents’ Day. Schools were out, less fortunate souls were working, and my family was visiting the zoo, so I had a cool, sunny day all to myself.
After filling my body’s tank with high-octane coffee, I fired up my air-cooled Ducati Scrambler 1100, and its Italian rumble brought a smile to my face. I started off midmorning in no particular rush, enjoying the Duc’s torquey Twin while my fellow travelers sat locked in their steel cages.
As I approached Greenbriar Road, my thoughts went to the history of this unremarkable stretch. Artist Amy Stump, who is a native to the area, once told me about the road’s history and its nickname, Ghost Light Road, which was summed up in Bill Delaney’s Jaxlore column in The Jaxson:
“[T]he ghost is a young motorcyclist from the area whose father had warned him about speeding on the dirt road. One fateful day, the young man’s brother strung a rope across Greenbriar. This prank merely would have unseated the cocky rider had he heeded his father’s admonition, but, unfortunately, he gunned the engine and lost his head. Thereafter, his ghost shined his headlamp down Greenbriar in a nightly vigil, either searching for his lost head or warning others against being so reckless.”
Trees draped in Spanish moss are a common sight in this part of Florida.
Like The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, the tale is apocryphal, but why let the truth get in the way of a good story?
Greenbriar Road ends at SR 13 near Switzerland (which is nothing like the country), and I headed south toward the town of Orangedale, passing under a large canopy of oak trees casting shadows over the road. The 17-mile stretch of SR 13 between Julington Creek and Wades Creek is designated as the William Bartram Scenic and Historic Highway, named after the naturalist and botanist who documented plants, animals, and native peoples in the area during the late 1700s.
Part of SR 13 honors 18th-century botanist and naturalist William Bartram.
As I rolled along the well-kept two-lane road, I caught peeks of the St. Johns River through the trees, and a few curves and roundabouts provided an opportunity to lean the Ducati over. There are small parks aplenty for scenic stops, many with benches to take in the river views and get a taste of “Old Florida.”
As I approached Orangedale, I was enveloped by the smokey smell wafting from Woodpeckers Backyard BBQ, a local favorite. Amy Stump’s mural of angel wings encircling regional landmarks greeted me as I placed an order for brisket and datil corn. Luckily, I got there before the brisket sold out, a gutting experience for those who arrive late in the day. I took my platter across the street to the Shands Pier and ate while watching boats gliding on the glint of the St. Johns.
A mural by Amy Stump at Woodpeckers Backyard BBQ, which is across from Shands Pier on SR 13.
Continuing south on SR 13, I took a brief detour on State Road 16 and crossed the Shands Bridge, passing fishermen, food trucks, and farm vendors. After riding by boatyards full of masts jutting into the sky, I stopped at The Military Museum of North Florida, located at the former site of Naval Air Station Lee Field. With its bunker-like main building, heavy machinery, and even a couple of military motorcycles from past theaters of war, it serves as a vivid reminder of the area’s deep military history.
View of the St. Johns River at Shands Pier. Between Palatka and Jacksonville, the river ranges from 1 to 3 miles wide.
Back on SR 13, I stopped at Trout Creek Memorial Park and Marina, highlights of which include the Major Gen. William W. Loring Monument and swamp-boat rentals for sightseeing or fishing. While enjoying an inspiring view of the creek, I imagined William Bartram recording observations and gathering samples in the same location hundreds of years ago.
The Military Museum of North Florida is on the west side of the river in Green Cove Springs.
Just down the road, I stopped at Buddy Boy’s Country Store, the best gas station on this route to fill up or enjoy the camaraderie of fellow riders. With its Adirondack chairs, general store provisions, and tasty country barbecue, it’s a must-stop if you’re in the area.
On the road again, the beauty of my ride really unfolded with curvy roads winding through tree canopies with peekaboo views of the river, piers, boat docks, and parks. Between the well-to-do town of Picolata (once the home of a Spanish fort) and Tocoi, SR 13 opened up, giving the Ducati a chance to stretch its legs.
Once past Tocoi, I recommend stopping at Riverdale Park. With picnic tables, benches, and a well-kept public restroom, it’s a nice place to relax and reflect. As the glassy calm waters of the St. Johns lapped gently against the shore, I closed my eyes and soaked in the ambience.
A taste of Florida’s primitive beauty at Trout Creek Memorial Park and Marina.
SR 13 ends at the junction with State Road 207 near Spuds. I had a decision to make: head east toward the coast to towns like St. Augustine, Palm Coast, and Daytona Beach, or cross the river and ride up the west bank of the St. Johns. Eager to get home in time to enjoy dinner with my family and listen to the adventures my 6-year-old and his friends had at the zoo, I returned home the way I came, enjoying the open road and the scenery in the opposite direction. The beauty of this route is that it’s enjoyable on its own, or it can be combined with other scenic roads nearby. One thing’s for sure: It was the change of pace I was looking for.
It’s a day 50 years ago that many of us will never forget. May 20th, 1973, the day World Championship Motorcycle racing lost a rider who was destined to join the likes of Hailwood, Agostini, Nieto, Rossi, and Marquez as one of the true greats, if not the greatest.
To make it even more special, we’ve included the Tales of Valentino playlist.! As the next Grand Prix is at Mugello, it’s only fitting to celebrate the legendary Valentino Rossi, one of the most iconic figures in the sport. Explore the fascinating stories, triumphs, and challenges that have shaped Rossi’s illustrious career, and discover just what made him tick.
