The 2024 FIM Women’s Circuit Racing World Championship has seen an incredible first half of the season, with every race being decided by less than a second. Part of the fantastic four at the front, Beatriz Neila (Ampito/Pata Prometeon Yamaha) fell in love with the sport after just trying a birthday present that was never meant for her. From then, she’s gone on to be European champion, World Championship podium finisher and has no plans to stop there.
GIFTED FROM THE START: a birthday present for her brother is where it all began
Spanish rider Beatriz Neila is a fierce competitor whose passion for racing comes across whenever she speaks. At just eight years of age she rode a motorcycle for the first time, jumping on a bike that her father had gifted to her younger brother.
“Since I was little, I have always liked motorcycles,” said Neila. “I saw them on television at home and at only two years old I dreamed that I was on a motorcycle. When I was eight, my father gave my brother a motorcycle for his fifth birthday and they let me try it out. It was at that moment I knew it was my sport. My first motorcycle was a minibike and from the first moment I tried it I didn’t want to get off of it, I loved it. As I got older, motorcycling became my life, everything revolved around my sport. It is something that I love and that I would choose again and again.”
After starting to race on minibikes, Neila competed the Cuna de Campeones in the 110cc MiniGP category in 2011 before moving on to ride in the 140cc MiniGP category in 2012, achieving a podium along the way towards 10th place in the standings. A year competing on an 80cc bike in the CEV was a springboard for her and in 2016 she won both the Mediterranean Women’s Championship and the Catalunya Women’s Championship.
In 2017 Neila was selected for the Red Bull Rookies Cup where she competed for one season before returning to Spain the following year to finish third in the R3 National R3 bLU cRU Challenge. This result earned Neila a place in WorldSSP300 with the BCD Yamaha MS Racing Team for the 2019 season, which also saw her riding in Yamaha Motor Europe’s Yamaha R3 bLU cRU Challenge.
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP DREAMS: a world stage debut and four-time European champion
She participated in seven WorldSSP300 races in 2019 but dropped from the championship due to lack of funding. Her tenacity to achieve her racing dream led her to the Women’s European Cup – now called Women’s European Championship – where she has already been champion four times, in 2020, 2021, 2022 and 2023. With those four back-to-back titles Neila is viewed as one of the contenders to make a mark in the new WorldWCR series. At the pre-season WorldWCR test at Cremona she had the pleasure of working with Jonathan Rea’s crew chief, Andrew Pitt. Alongside Neila at the front of the field and also from Spain are decorated riders such as Ana Carrasco (Evan Bros. Yamaha Racing Team), Maria Herrera (Klint Forward Factory Team) and Sara Sanchez (Terra&Vita 511 Racing Team).
HER HAIR-DRESSING FATHER: a manager, a rider coach, a hair-dresser and a dad
Neila acknowledges and emphasises the role that her Dad plays in her racing career, explaining: “My father is like a manager for me. He is always with me. Also my family but my father is a big person for me in my career. He was a rider, an amateur rider. He watches everything and learns everything about the rest, then gives me advice.”
RACING AGAINST VALENTINO ROSSI: dreams do come true
The 22 year-old law student from Madrid has been a Valentino Rossi fan throughout her life and now gets the chance to emulate her racing idol, competing on a Yamaha machine at World Championship level. In fact she was lucky enough to race against the famous #46 in the 2019 100km dei Campioni, in Tavullia, at Rossi’s Motor Ranch.
She says of that experience of learning from Rossi: “When you meet him, he is a really normal person, a family person. He’s a person that wants to help everyone. When I was at his ranch he helped me a lot. He loves helping everyone and that’s the main point I love about him. In the first corner I did another line and he came to me and said ‘this line is incorrect, you have to do this line’ and I did it and I improved a lot. Also at this race my teammate was Jonathan Rea and he helped me a lot.” Neila continues to have support from Rea during the WorldWCR weekends, with her being under the same structure as Rea with Paul Denning’s Ampito/Pata Prometeon Yamaha outfit.
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The machines competing in the 2024 MOTUL FIM Superbike World Championship are things of beauty and we’re giving you the chance to see them up and close in a series of tech galleries. This time, it’s time for the BMW M 1000 RR, which has been taken to new heights since the arrival of Toprak Razgatlioglu (ROKiT BMW Motorrad WorldSBK Team). It will forever go down in the history books as the bike he tamed on his way to a consecutive wins record and you can see the details of it in the stunning photos at the top of this page.
Watch more incredible WorldSBK action throughout 2024 in style using the WorldSBK VideoPass!
The inaugural FIM Women’s Circuit Racing World Championship is well underway and is providing thrilling action. In a series of ‘Her Story’ articles, we’re introducing the competitors in the 2024 season to ensure you can get to know them even more and this time it’s the turn of Alyssia Whitmore (Sekhmet Motorcycle Racing Team).
ORIGIN STORY: first memories of riding a bike
Alyssia (Lissy) Whitmore’s first memories of motorcycles involved riding a 50cc dirt bike around a field owned by her father’s friend at only eight years old. This early experience sparked a lifelong passion for motorcycling. Her first bike, an IMR140 Pitbike, marked a significant departure from her previous pastime of playing football. The thrill of her initial ride on this bike set the stage for her future in competitive racing.
Her formal racing journey began in 2017 at the age of 12, in the British Mini Bikes. Despite financial constraints, she managed to complete half a season, which set the foundation for her future endeavours. In 2018, she pursued a full season in the same series, and by 2019, she had obtained her ACU licence following the British Talent Cup tryouts. This led to a season on a KTMRC390 and eventually to racing a Yamaha R3. Although an accident in 2021 set her back, she rebounded to complete a full season in the British Superbikes with OMG Racing in 2022. In 2023, she competed in England’s only road race Oliver’s Mount in Scarborough, and now, in 2024, she races for Sekhmet Racing in the WorldWCR.
EARLIER AMBITIONS: plans for a job in the military
When in college in the UK, Lissy did Public Service in order to prepare her for her goal of joining the Royal Air Force. Due to medical reasons, she couldn’t make it into the military, after which she had to look for work. With her goals now shifted to giving it her all at the race track, she specifically chose jobs with schedules that would allow her to pursue her racing career.
INSPIRATION AND MOTIVATION: influenced by her dad
Her father’s influence, coupled with the thrill of mini bike racing, cemented her dedication to the sport. “I never really chose bike racing, it chose me,” Lissy tells us. She never imagined she would be racing at such a high level, but her passion and perseverance have driven her success. While her father was enthusiastic about her racing career, her mother needed some convincing. Ultimately, her family’s support and pride have been unwavering, playing a crucial role in her journey. She feels a deep sense of gratefulness and honour in representing her country on the world stage. Being part of a championship that holds significant promise for the future of women in motorcycling is a matter of immense pride for her.
LISSY’S DREAM: to ride at the Isle of Man TT
“It’s a dream with a plan that will come soon. It’s not something that we are focusing on at the minute, but it is a dream. I started on the pit bikes, then when I got to the big bikes, I just gravitated towards people who were road racers and had done the TT. So, it rubbed off on me and it’s something that is different. It looks exciting, I don’t know how to describe it. I just love the idea of it, the commitment. It’s strong.”
USING #34: her dad’s favourite rider’s number
“When I was growing up, I watched MotoGP™ with my dad all the time and he always used to tell me that his favourite rider was Kevin Schwantz, because apparently Valentino Rossi’s favourite rider was Kevin Schwantz. Then when I started racing, I was trying to pick a race number, it was between #55 and #34, because of Kevin Schwantz and 55 because it was Li55y. I was like, every person I saw has already done that with their name and number. So I thought, I’m going to do #34, because not a lot of kids appreciate and understand the older style MotoGP™, the 500s and the 250s.”
LISSY ANSWERS: quickfire questions…
Who is the female athlete that inspires you the most? “My motorcycling female inspiration is Jenny Tinmouth, outside of racing I would have to say Ellie Simmonds, the Paralympic swimmer. Both for their determination to succeed.”
How do you prepare for races? “I listen to music, breathe deep and just try to get into a ready headspace.”
What is your goal for this season? “My goal is to just make some really good progress, have a lot of fun and really take on some great experiences.”
What advice would you give to young girls who aspire to compete at the highest level in riding? “No matter how much you think you can’t do it, you can!”
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It’s been a season with great contrasts to the previous two for the Aruba.it Racing – Ducati outfit. Alvaro Bautista may be the reigning double World Champion but he’s only taken two wins in 2024, whilst fresh teammate Nicolo Bulega has one from his rookie season, coming in Race 1 at the season-opener. Despite the challenges of new weight regulations, Bautista is third in the Championship and with the feeling coming back, team principal Serafino Foti is banking on him staying for at least 2025.
“WE DON’T HAVE PLAN B” – Foti’s focus on banking Bautista for another season
“We didn’t speak during the Portimao weekend because he prefers not to speak during the round,” began Serafino. “We will continue to work and whilst it isn’t defined yet, we’re close to trying to continue together. Soon, I can say if it’s 80% or 90% or 0% but I’m so confident. We don’t have any plan B because our goal is to continue with him.”
“THE BALANCE OF THE BIKE IS SO SENSITIVE” – weighing in on weight
Talking about sorting out their ballast for the #1 Ducati, Foti stated the complications: “This year, we’ve had some problems with the weight with Alvaro. It was difficult to find the best setup but from Most, we found the best compromise. We moved the weight in some areas and our engineers did a good job at home. He was competitive there and also at Portimao. He crashed but he was there and that’s the most important thing for the future. Toprak is so strong with 13 straight race wins but we’ll never give up, like always and for sure, we’ll continue to work for the future. Next year, we’ll have the same bike but it’s also important to keep improving it. This year has been so difficult but every race and all the time, we continue pushing.
“We continue working everywhere to try and improve; it’s not one area, it’s small things. The balance of the bike is so sensitive to the weight on Alvaro’s side. This is the problem. Some tracks, the weight is in a good weight but at others, you need to move it again. It’s not easy because the statiionary weight is one thing but the dynamic weight is a completely different story, so this is the main problem at the moment. We don’t know if one track will be aprticularly difficult because we’ll find out when we arrive there. The bike was quite good at Most and at Portimao, he had the same feeling.”
“NICOLO’S LINE IS A LOT LIKE JORGE LORENZO” – Bulega in the flow in rookie season
“Nicolo is a rookie but has a lot of experience,” started Foti, an ex-racer himself, knowing exactly the challenges and adaptations ‘Bulegas’ has needed to overcome. “He’s done Moto3™, Moto2™ and has a lot of experience elsewhere. His performance isn’t a surprise. In Race 2 at Portimao, I don’t think he could have been better. Toprak put a small gap on the last lap and whilst Nicolo was fast in the last corner, he was also 0.4s down at sector three. If he was 0.2, the race would be different but this is racing. He did a great race fighting with Toprak and he closed him down too. We’ll continue to work for Magny-Cours and I hope we beat Toprak again. To be honest, Nicolo’s line is a lot like Jorge Lorenzo. He’s smooth, so if he starts well, he can put a gap. However, in the opening laps, a lot of riders try to pass him but he does a good job.”
Ducati will be present at MotorLand Aragon in September for testing, along with the Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK and Team HRC. There’s a new track surface to trial as well as some new parts as Foti confirmed when asked about the potential for new things in 2024: “Yes. We’ll do a test at Aragon in September but we’ll have some particular things. Nothing that you can see though, never!”
It was yet another weekend to remember for the MTM Kawasaki team in the FIM Sueprsport 300 World Championship. Loris Veneman took over in the lead of the Championship standings but the team made it four wins on the spin as Mirko Gennai took his first wins of 2024 with a fine double at his beloved Portimao, following up Veneman’s double at Most in July.
SENSATIONAL WEEKEND: poles, wins and podiums all round
Race 1 was a masterclass from the #26, as he broke clear on the last lap to make sure he couldn’t be slipstreamed to the line. With a collision on the final lap with Veneman, Inigo Iglesias (Fusport – RT Motorsports by SKM – Kawasaki) crashed out, meaning Veneman’s P4 propelled the 17-year-old Dutch rider to within 10 points of the Championship lead. It was also a second straight pole for Veneman in WorldSSP300, showing the #7 has strong one-lap pace as well as race craft.
On Sunday afternoon, another thriller as once again, the battle intensified with daring moves and elbows-out battling, typical of WorldSSP300. ‘Little man’ Gennai once again demonstrated his incredible Portimao pace and took charge, making it two wins from two, bringing himself into contention for the title. However, an early mechanical issue fot Iglesias capped off what was a weekend to forget with a double DNF. Seizing the opportunity to lead the Championship, Veneman’s P2 in Race 2 – a first 1-2 for MTM Kawasaki since Aragon’s Race 1 in 2023 – also gave him the Championship lead. For Gennai, it was his fifth win in WorldSSP300 at the Portuguese circuit and his sixth of his career, becoming the only rider in World Supersport 300 to win at a race track five times.
“WE’RE MORE POSITIVE FOR THE FINAL PART OF THE YEAR” – Gennai a contender for glory?
Speaking about his double, Gennai explained his Portimao pace: “Race 2 was fantastic like all the weekend. With my teammate Loris, to be on the podium together for the team is fantastic. We did the perfect job this weekend and we had a fantastic feeling with the bike. I’m very happy but I think the race was slower than Race 1 and also cooler. It was harder to finish in Race 1 because of the heat. Today, I used more strategy to save the tyre better for the last lap. I didn’t know I had one second in hand but to finish first anyway, I’m very happy. We’ve been strong all year but actually, had some bad luck in the first part. Now, to win two races consecutively, we’re more positive for the final part of the year. We’ll work to stay on top for Magny-Cours.”
“I DIDN’T WANT TO RISK EVERYTHING” – smart, safe and Championship lead for Veneman
Championship leader Loris Veneman has taken charge in the last two rounds but now, the hunter will become the hunted moving forwards to Magny-Cours: “Race 2 was quite hard because I had to come from P10 and pass a lot of riders. The first riders were getting away so I had to give it my all to close them in and in the end, I could do it. In the last couple of laps, I was getting my breath down a bit to be more relaxed because it was very hot on the bike. In the end, I could use my brain; the two Koves took each other out wide and I knew that if I could push now, I’d be able to do the undercut and it worked out. I’m really happy with P2.
“I didn’t want to risk everything in the race as I knew Inigo wasn’t in the group but I didn’t know he didn’t finish either. I knew if I finished the race, I’d be Championship leader. P5 gets me 11 points and I was 10 points behind! I didn’t want to risk everything but I’m happy in the end. Magny-Cours, I think, is almost my favourite circuit so I hope to be really fast again and I hope I can extend my Championship lead there.”
The Pirelli Portuguese Round gave plenty of drama at the Autodromo Internacional do Algarve with some overtakes at some strange places as the MOTUL FIM Superbike World Championship field took to the majestic Portuguese venue. Here, we have a look at some of the unexpected passing places or the best moves that took place across the weekend.
It would be the decisive pass as Alex Lowes (Kawasaki Racing Team WorldSBK) once again demonstrated his strength in the short 10-lap dash by making a bold move on Michael van der Mark at Turn 8 on the final lap of the shoot-out on Sunday morning. Lowes forced his ZX-10RR up the inside of the Dutchman’s BMW, denying the #60 a first podium in two years.
In an epic Race 2 battle with Toprak Razgatlioglu (ROKiT BMW Motorrad WorldSBK Team) – and yes, we’ve said that at Portimao before – Alvaro Bautista took advantage of the Turkish star losing a wing earlier in the race. Going through on the inside at Turn 3 in the closing stages of the race, Bautista ran a bit wide but had the inside for Turn 4, giving him the race lead – an inspired move perhaps from Maria Herrera in WorldWCR, who did the same. Unfortunately for Bautista, Toprak was able to re-pass him at Turn 5 and although the #54 went wide, Bautista fell in an attempt to get up the inside, ending his race for victory.
FAST STARTING VIERGE: another mighty opening lap by the #97
Whilst there’s been a lot less to celebrate for Honda than they’d have liked, Xavi Vierge (Team HRC) is gaining a reputation for being extremely fast out of the traps. The Spanish rider elevated himself into the top five briefly in Race 2 from the third row of the grid, storming into contention. Eventually dropping back to finish in P7, Vierge was also strong when the lights went out earlier in the day in the Superpole Race, going from 13th to P7, which ultimately gave him that all-important third row starting position. Keep an eye on the #97 in the forthcoming rounds.
Vierge once again featured in Race 2 but this time as he was shuffled back. Jonathan Rea (Pata Prometeon Yamaha) got a great run through the Craig Jones Corner at Turn 9 and up over the crest of the hill at Turn 10, lunged for the inside at Turn 11 to get the move done. This was Rea’s retaliation for Vierge’s pass at Turn 1 at the start of the lap. Rea would finish up in P6 whilst Vierge was in the top ten for the second time on Sunday with ninth.
Despite a best Superpole of the year, Alvaro Bautista’s sixth place on the grid saw him go backwards to way outside the top ten on the opening lap. Having to come through from 13th on the opening lap, P2 seemed a big – and perhaps unrealistic – target for the #1 but he achieved it with another mighty comeback.
Kudzu Curve on Back of the Dragon (Virginia Route 16). (Photo above courtesy Back of the Dragon; other photos by the author and Dan McPhee).
Dan and I met nearly 20 years ago while playing on a recreational ice hockey team in our hometown of Ottawa, Ontario. When we weren’t talking about how bad our team was, we discussed our shared love of motorcycles. Our first motorcycle trip together was a long weekend exploring New Hampshire’s White Mountains.
For our next trip, we spent a week riding in the Appalachians of western North Carolina. We enjoyed it so much that we returned the following year. Dan and I became regular riding partners, and we’ve done tours throughout the U.S. and Canada. Recently, we returned to the Appalachians to celebrate the 15th anniversary of our first ride there.
Dan made a new friend at the Back of the Dragon store in Tazewell, Virginia.
After a long day and a half riding south on Interstate 81 from Ottawa, we kicked off our backroads bonanza near Wytheville, Virginia, which is in the heart of a half-dozen excellent loop rides known collectively as Claw of the Dragon. We exited I-81 at Marion and rode north on State Route 16, a road known as Back of the Dragon that winds its way through the mountains to Tazewell, a nice Appalachian town that’s a perfect place to rest and recharge. It has a variety of restaurants, shops, and motorcycle-friendly lodging options, including The Traveler on Main, which offers vacation suites with full kitchens. The Back of the Dragon welcome center is a hub for riders, offering artisan pizza, self-pouring beer taps, local insights, and souvenirs.
Dan and I on our first ride together to the Appalachians in 2008. Younger, stronger, and better looking, but probably not as wise?
SR-16 runs north-south over three mountains – Big Walker, Brushy, and Clinch – which gives the road its rolling humpbacked character, and its 32 miles have more than 400 curves. It weaves through lush, green forest and includes open valleys and scenic views. Changes in elevation are accompanied by changes in temperature that enhance the experience. It was easy to get into the rhythm of the ride and become one with our motorcycles, savoring each curve before moving to the next one.
Same guy, same horse, 15 years apart, at the Shady Valley Country Store on The Snake (U.S. Route 421) in Tennessee.
We enjoyed Back of the Dragon so much that after visiting Tazewell, we turned around and rode it in reverse, doubling our fun. Just north of Marion is Hungry Mother State Park, which surrounds a lake of the same name. At the park’s Royal Oak Campground, we pitched our tents on a wooden platform extended over the side of a hill like a backyard deck, allowing us to relax while nestled among bucolic trees.
Our campsite with the tent platform at Hungry Mother State Park, just off Virginia Route 16.
The next day we followed backroads south to Damascus and crossed into Johnson County, Tennessee, on State Route 133. We stopped at the Shady Valley Country Store, located at the crossroads of SR-133, SR-91, and U.S. Route 421. It’s a popular waypoint for motorcyclists, and we recreated a photo we’d taken 15 years ago: Dan riding a coin-operated horse made for kids.
After having a few laughs, we rode west on U.S. 421, another famous backroad known as The Snake, which slithers its way for 33 miles through Cherokee National Forest, goes over three mountains, and includes nearly 500 curves. Since Shady Valley is near the middle of The Snake, we rode to the western end in Holsten Valley and then turned around and rode to the eastern end in Mountain City.
Taking a break while riding Appalachian backroads in North Carolina.
As we continued heading south on backroads in western North Carolina, we experienced an unforgettable moment. I was leading as we rode on a straight stretch of road with a river just below us. Through our helmet communicators, Dan told me to look to my right. Flying over the river alongside us, at eye level and the same speed, was a bald eagle scanning the water below. It seemed like we were flying together. The vivid display of nature’s beauty ended all too quickly as the road and river veered in different directions.
After crossing state lines several times, we ended our day in Tennessee, ascending the winding State Route 143 to Roan Mountain State Park. We enjoyed a hearty dinner of sausage and potatoes cooked over the campfire and a quiet night under the stars.
Mountains as far as the eye can see on the Foothills Parkway in Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
The next morning, we continued our southern trajectory on SR-143 back into North Carolina, and then we rode State Route 261 to Bakersville. We took a convoluted, curvy route to Hot Springs, where we turned south on State Route 209, another serpentine backroad known as The Rattler that claims 290 curves in 24 miles.
After riding through the Pigeon River Gorge on Interstate 40, we crossed into Tennessee again and took another winding backroad (State Route 32) along the northern edge of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and then U.S. Route 321. We passed through Gatlinburg, where a boy named Sue once stopped at an old saloon to have himself a brew and met his long-lost father. We didn’t find an old saloon on the heavily trafficked, tourist-friendly streets, so we made our way to Elkmont Campground in the park and settled in for another quiet night.
Dan and I with the Tail of the Dragon store’s namesake at Deals Gap.
Prior to meeting Dan, most of my motorcycle rides were of the solo variety. I was a “dawn to dusk” rider, all business, putting in the miles, with riding great roads my solitary goal. Riding with Dan has taught me to slow down and smell the roses. He enjoys talking to strangers, meeting people, and experiencing things other than riding. We’ve helped each other expand our horizons. I’ve shared the joys of riding long miles, and Dan encourages me to enjoy the parts of a trip that are off the bike.
Over the years, we’ve become great friends. Dan is like a brother to me. Our families have gotten close, and we know we can count on each other for the important things in life. Our friendship seems to be a rarity in today’s highly polarized world. We have different political views, but I don’t hold it against him that he’s usually wrong in every political discussion, nor does he hold it against me. We agree to disagree, yet we still respect each other.
Wilson Creek Valley overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina.
Sunrise brought us another beautiful day, and we headed south into the heart of Great Smoky Mountains National Park on Newfound Gap Road (U.S. Route 441). The park gets upwards of 13 million visitors per year, so it’s hard to find a time when U.S. 441 doesn’t have a lot of traffic, but it’s still a beautiful ride. Our favorite part is The Loop, where the road curves around 360 degrees and crosses over itself.
At the Newfound Gap overlook on the Tennessee-North Carolina state line, we admired the views of the road, the lush forest, and the blue-tinged ridges of the Smokies. Rather than continue south to Cherokee, we turned around and headed north to Pigeon Forge, where we picked up U.S. 321 again and then Foothills Parkway, a relaxing ride with spectacular views that got us in the right frame of mind for what would come next.
Dan and his Yamaha Super Ténéré enjoying some curves in northern Georgia.
At Chilhowee Lake, we turned east on U.S. Route 129, which runs along the edge of the lake for a few miles before climbing up to the Calderwood Dam overlook. This is the northern tip of Tail of the Dragon, the most famous backroad on our Appalachian greatest-hits tour. With 318 curves in 11 miles, it’s one of the tightest, twistiest sections of road in a region full of tight, twisty roads.
Dan was especially excited, exclaiming “I think I touched a peg!” in our helmet communicators. He rides a tall Yamaha Super Ténéré adventure bike, and it was a first for him. The beauty of Tail of the Dragon is the endless supply of curves, many of them nicely banked, and the lack of cross traffic. The downside is that motorcycle and car traffic can be heavy, especially on the weekends.
Carving my Gold Wing through curves in northern Georgia.
After crossing back into North Carolina near Deals Gap, we headed east on State Route 28, aka Moonshiner 28, and stopped to visit the impressive Fontana Dam. We followed SR-28 for its entire 81-mile length, which includes the Waterfall Byway (Bridal Veil Falls is a must-stop spot) and Indian Lake Scenic Byway, to the Georgia state line, where SR-28 continues south. Northern Georgia roads are fantastic, with wide curves, perfect pavement, and little traffic, which made it easy to get into a good flow.
We made our way west to Two Wheels of Suches, a motorcycle-only lodge and campground located on the Georgia Triangle, an excellent loop that connects U.S. Route 19, State Route 60, and Wolf Pen Gap Road (State Route 180). At the campground, we met a young man on a ’70s-era Harley hardtail chopper that he built himself. Hearing about his cross-country trips on that bike with its 2-gallon gas tank and leather-covered steel seat made Dan and I embarrassed for complaining that our heated grips don’t get quite hot enough.
Our campsite at the Two Wheels of Suches motorcycle-only resort in northern Georgia.
Having hit our southernmost point, it was time to start heading north. We followed backroads through Georgia and South Carolina before returning to North Carolina, eventually picking up the Blue Ridge Parkway for a relaxing cruise to Maggie Valley, where a hotel room and a barbecue meal awaited us.
The next day, we visited Wheels Through Time. Unlike most museums that are static and filled with signs that read “Do Not Touch,” WTT lets you get close to over 300 motorcycles on display. Staff members circulate and tell stories about various bikes, and they often start bikes to let visitors hear how they run.
During our visit to Wheels Through Time in Maggie Valley, North Carolina, Matt Walksler gave us a tour of the restoration shop.
During our visit, Matt Walksler, who now runs the museum after his father, Dale Walksler, passed away in 2021, invited a small group of us to join him for a behind-the-scenes tour of the shop where bikes are restored. Seeing the vintage engines, gas tanks, wheels, and parts along with several motorcycles in various states of restoration was incredible.
The next day, we left Maggie Valley and headed for Rider’s Roost, a motorcycle resort and campground in Ferguson, North Carolina. When we arrived, we discovered a lively scene and a band playing on the Friday of Memorial Day weekend. We set up our tents and went to join the party. It was different from the quiet campgrounds we were used to, but the “everybody is a friend” atmosphere made for a great evening of country rock music, darts, and beers.
Our campsite at Rider’s Roost Motorcycle Resort and Campground in Ferguson, North Carolina. A live band was playing about 300 yards away.
It was a long, two-day interstate slog back to Ottawa, which gave us plenty of time to reflect on our fantastic week exploring the best backroads in the Appalachians. The memories will last forever, another chapter in the book of experiences that Dan and I have written together. Hockey brought us together, but long motorcycle journeys have been the secret to our long-lasting friendship.
Trevor Denis has been addicted to motorcycling since he learned to ride and twisted the forks on a Honda XL80 with an accidental jump when he was 11. His thoughts and garage are mostly full of motorcycles. He lives in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, with his understanding wife, two great kids, a cat, and a lazy dog.
This is proper bucket list stuff…. Such a cool experience. Thanks again the whole Yamaha Racing heritage club for making this happen.. What an incredible d… Source: Jonathan Rea On Facebook
Our Triumphs – my Sprint GT and Dad’s Tiger 1050 – await more curves while we enjoy a scenic overlook on U.S. Route 220 near Falling Spring Falls. (Photos by the author)
After a 400-mile ride from Louisville, Kentucky, to Clifton Forge, Virginia, relaxing on the wraparound porch at Ridgely Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens was just what Dad and I needed. Perched above the town and built in 1902, Ridgely served as our homebase for two days of riding through the hollows, over the ridges, and under the canopies of trees in the Alleghany Highlands of Virginia’s Mountain Region during this Virginia motorcycle ride.
Re-entering Virginia on the Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls scenic loop.
When we got hungry, Dad and I walked down the hill and into town for a well-earned meal at Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery, where I had a delicious New York strip and a Log Hopper Tavern Kolsch. Afterwards we settled into our comfortable rooms to get some rest for the next day’s riding and exploring.
West Ridgeway Street in Clifton Forge.
Day 1: Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge Loop
With our kickstands up early the next morning, we rode one of the scenic routes recommended by the Alleghany Highlands Chamber of Commerce and Tourism, which has a visitor center in nearby Covington (the routes are also available on the Chamber’s website). We began with the Lake Moomaw-Humpback Bridge loop.
Humpback Bridge spans Dunlap Creek. It’s the last remaining single-span humpback covered bridge in the United States and a #UniquelyAlleghany site.
Just west of Covington, we checked out the Humpback Bridge, the last covered humpback bridge in the U.S. Built in 1857 from wood cut by broad axe, it’s 110 feet long and four feet higher in the center than on the ends. It’s hard to imagine that the tranquil Dunlap Creek flowing below could ever threaten to wash away the bridge, but that possibility was the reason for the hump in the middle. Once a part of the Midland Trail (U.S. Route 60), the bridge stopped carrying vehicular traffic in 1929. The National Historic Landmark is now the centerpiece of a delightful five-acre park.
Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER
Next, we turned north on Indian Draft Road (State Route 600), a pleasantly remote stretch of road that eventually loses its yellow centerlines. Following natural hollows created by Cove Run and Indiandraft Creek, the road weaves its way through dense foliage shrouding both sides of the road. It was about this time that I realized the Google Map of the route I pulled up using a QR code at the visitor center was no longer tracking because I was out of cell range. Being able to digitally disconnect is one of the great things about riding in remote areas, but I recommend downloading maps to your phone for offline use (the REVER app allows you to do this; see map above) or bringing a paper map as a backup.
We stopped to admire Smith Creek on a tree-canopied road on the Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls loop.
From Indian Draft Road, we wound our way to East Morris Hill Road (SR-666) and then Coles Mountain Road (SR-605) to Gathright Dam. Named after the man whose land was overtaken by the reservoir, the dam was authorized in 1946 but not completed until 1976. Needed to protect life and commerce along the flood-prone James and Jackson rivers, it created 2,530-acre Lake Moomaw, which is stocked with trout and bass and ringed with campgrounds.
A view of Gathright Dam from the Lake Moomaw visitor center.
The Lake Moomaw visitor center provided a nice spot to stretch our legs and check the route to Falling Spring Falls, another truly unique wonder. To get to the falls, we backtracked on Coles Mountain Road to Natural Well Road (SR-638). Just before turning right onto Jackson River Road (SR-637), we saw a sign for the Jackson River Scenic Trail, a 16-mile rails-to-trails multiuse pathway. We turned left onto Falls Road followed by a left on Hot Springs Road (U.S. 220).
The waters of Falling Spring Creek tumble down 80 feet to the rocks below in a postcard-perfect location, with the cascade framed in green foliage and a view of the Allegheny Mountains to the left. On the side of the road, there is a pull-off for parking and an overlook with a picnic area, but there is no trail to the falls, so they must be enjoyed from a distance.
There’s no such thing as a bad picture of Falling Spring Falls. U.S. 220’s curves are addictive, so make sure you don’t miss the pull-off.
With our morning ride complete, we headed back to Clifton Forge to check out the C&O Railway Heritage Center, a must-visit attraction for those who love trains and railroads. The museum occupies what was once a freight depot built in the late 1800s, and the exhibits illustrate the intertwined history of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway and the town of Clifton Forge. C&O was once the world’s largest hauler of bituminous coal, but it was also known for luxurious passenger service. The museum’s collection includes old C&O uniforms, fine china and silverware, model trains, and displays about the railway’s evolution. It was fascinating to see a photo of fully loaded railway cars parked on a bridge during a flood to keep the bridge from washing away, as well as instructions given to an engineer for the arrival of Franklin Roosevelt’s funeral train on April 15, 1945. Outside are massive coal-fired steam engines, cabooses, and dining cars that are open to visitors.
Without Dad posing next to the #614’s 6-foot driving wheel, it’s hard to explain the size of the 4-8-4 locomotives of the Chesapeake and Ohio railway.
Next, we walked to the nearby Alleghany Highlands Arts and Crafts Center and saw an exhibit of art created by a former railroad worker. Dad and I dined next door at Michael’s New York Style Pizza, where the aroma of baked dough, ’80s music, and wood-paneled booths and tables took me back to the pizzerias of my childhood. All that was missing was a Ms. Pac-Man tabletop arcade game.
After our late lunch, we mounted up again to try and make it to North Mountain Overlook for a sunset view of the valley and Allegheny Mountains. Paralleling I-64 East, we took Longdale Furnace Road (SR-269) to Collierstown Road (SR-770), another narrow, paintless road. However, about a half mile on the ascent, the road switched to gravel. With sunset coming in the next hour, we decided to bail on the endeavor. Dad was on his Triumph Tiger, but I was on my Triumph Sprint GT sport-tourer. Had we started earlier in the day or been on true adventure bikes, we would have gone on. But with dusk upon us, we called it a day.
Michael’s New York Style Pizza in Clifton Forge is a perfect spot to eat and reflect on the local area’s fantastic riding.
Day 2: Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls Loop
If you only have one day for riding in the Alleghany Highlands, the Chamber of Commerce and Tourism’s Historic Masonic Theatre-Falling Spring Falls scenic loop is the ride for you. Starting at the Masonic Theatre in downtown Clifton Forge, the route north out of town on Rose and Sioux streets becomes Sulfur Spring Road (SR-606). The climb up and over the ridge was especially twisty at the top, where 1st and 2nd gears were needed for the tighter switchbacks. While we only had intermittent glances over our shoulder of the valley below, the view was stunning. It was a nice clear, dry spring day, making this part of the ride a motorcyclist’s chef’s kiss.
After the climb, Sulfur Spring Road flattens a little and even gains a median line after passing Airport Drive. At the intersection with Hot Springs Road (U.S. 220), we turned left and headed south towards Covington, passing Falling Spring Falls again on our right.
Dad and I had a great trip, and we enjoyed the hospitality and comfort of the Ridgley Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens.
In Covington, we turned right on East Riverside Street and hopped on the Midland Trail (U.S. 60). Where U.S. 60 merges with I-64, we took Dunlap Creek Road (SR-159). Again, I recommend saving maps to your phone for offline use as well as writing down the general waypoints and route numbers since cell coverage is spotty along the route. Who needs cell service anyway when you can enjoy light traffic, bucolic scenery, the fragrance of fresh-cut grass, and the hum of the bike? We cruised along at no more than 45 mph for the next 25 miles, crossing Dunlap Creek over and over.
At Crows, SR-159 merges with the Kanawha Trail (SR-311) and passes briefly through West Virginia. In Sweet Springs, West Virginia, we stopped for a map check and to read three roadside markers. One informed us our present location was once part of Virginia; another told us that John Floyd, governor of Virginia from 1831-1834, was buried nearby; and the last told us that the Rowan Memorial Home, which was once a resort, includes a building from 1833 designed by Thomas Jefferson.
Ridgley Bed, Breakfast, and Historic Gardens
Back in Virginia and just before Paint Bank, we made a hard left onto Potts Creek Road (SR-18) and started heading north again. Our return to Clifton Forge, which included Blue Spring Run Road and Rich Patch Road (both designated SR-616), was a delightful ride along creeks and was full of curves, dips and rises, and a mix of open countryside and dense forest.
Back at the Ridgely, Dad and I enjoyed another relaxing sit on the sweeping porch and discussed highlights of the last two days. We had a fantastic time in the Alleghany Highlands, and we’ll be back. In the fall, I’m sure sitting on the porch and watching colorful leaves fall from the 100-year-old oak tree would lift nature’s veil to reveal even more of the valley below.
Nathan Cuvelier’s first motorcycle ride was after a primer on his dad’s Honda Shadow Spirit in a parking lot. The next day the two embarked on a ride through the White Mountains of Arizona. He’s been hooked ever since and relishes escaping northern Virginia traffic on two wheels whenever he can.
We review the Joe Rocket Anthem Motorcycle Jeans. (Photo by Aaron Crane)
I’ve owned a pair of Joe Rocket Anthem motorcycle jeans for about a year now. Of the various types of motorcycle jeans I’ve worn, these are my favorite by far because they check all the right boxes: comfort, protection, and style.
The Anthem jeans are constructed of 12-ounce heavy-duty stretch denim. They have a comfortable fit, and I like that the bottoms flare enough to fit over motorcycle boots without interference, so there’s no tightness or tugging when moving my legs around.
Protection comes from panels of aramid fiber that line the front and back down past knee level, as well as CE Level 2 knee and hip armor with two-stage adjustable height for the knee armor via hook-and-loop closures. The knee armor pockets are one of my favorite features of the Anthems. I don’t mind wearing a pair of jeans a few times before washing them, but when it comes time, I don’t want to fight to get the knee armor out or back in.
Most motorcycle jeans have knee pocket access inside the pant legs, which typically requires pulling the pants inside out to deal with the armor. The Anthem jeans take the prize, with zipper pockets running down the outside seam that make removal and reinsertion a simple affair, not only for washing but also for taking the armor out when walking around off the bike. For those worried about the armor pockets ruining the jeans aesthetic, they blend right in with the seam, and the zipper is small and subtle enough that you don’t notice it unless you’re looking for it.
The only thing that cramps the style a bit is the Full Flex stretch panel at the back yoke (the area above the back pockets and below the belt line). This does what it’s supposed to do – provide greater flexibility while in the riding position without exposing your butt crack to travelers behind you – but it looks a little funny when you’re off the bike. Fortunately, there is a simple solution: Just don’t be “that guy” who tucks his black T-shirt into his jeans, and the stretch panel will be hidden.
Considering their comfort, protection, style, and convenient knee-armor removal, plus a reasonable price of $149.95, Joe Rocket Anthem jeans are worthy of consideration. They’re available in classic blue denim with both regular (30- to 40-inch waist) and short inseams (30- to 38-inch waist).
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